Duncan

The thing I think has been missed in this thread is that there is absolutely no reason to upgrade the factory brakes for street use...they are excellent. Like FBracing said, if you are actually having problems for street use at most you could do with some better pads and maybe bleed the fluid.

good digging and information, thanks Like I said a few years back, it would be interesting to see back to back between stagea and skyline cams to prove the different, I never got around to it.....

Well yes, "sticking an extra friction plate in there" is essentially how you modify them for more front torque, just like tightening up the mechanical diffs. I suspect there is a little more to it than just throwing an extra plate in as far as getting measuring and getting the right amount of forward drive without locking it up all the time, but if you understand how much extra you need then go for it!

lol that was my first thought too, 355 should be adequate to get your groceries home quickly I don't know that it applies to the series2/NEO motor, but the S1 motor apparently has less aggressive cams than the skyline (not that I've ever had them measure to prove this). So if that's correct, a pair of cams might give you a bigger gain than normal.

That's about right for the price difference. I haven't run on either but I'd happily take the Hankooks. Yokohama had them banned from Superlap for a reason, and most of the people that buy new Yokos do so because their race rules require thenm.....

welcome back, and sorry you chose a 35 over a 34 do you still have the cima too?

yeah, pete used to be a lot cooler. where is that sideways camera burger-ring vid

Set 2 engine covers sold. And for those who asked, yes I am happy to sell the wheels as either pairs or 4, $500ea.

made some progress over the weekend.... got the gearbox back from award. I actually bought this brand new from Just Jap about 10 years ago, ran it in the race for a few years until it got crunchy and then put it in the stagea where it did another 100,000klm. By the end it was pretty whirry and crunch so Award put new bearings and synchros in. Since it was the S3 33 box in the first place no parts upgrades where required. They also tightened the transfer case clutch packs while it was apart. Also got the arms and subframe back from Chris@Craved, they were quick, cheap, and have come up awesome in nismo silver. finished pulling the front suspension out, I think I will keep going and drop the engine as well so I can coat the front subframe too, it has been painted in the past and looks terrible. Sorry for the terrible lighting in the pic Everything was in reasonable condition except the front passenger side wheel bearing which was farked. I'll get some pics later but I think the shop that put the driveshafts in before high country didn't do up the hub nut properly. One thing while I'm here, one of the few mods allowed in Production Cars is to move the inner end of the LCA to get the required camber. This pic doesn't show it too well but about 1cm of material has been added and the studs moved out by the same amount to get more camber while retaining standard geometery. This subframe was originally out of the BSM IPRA car but the rules are the same in this case.

oh f**k I missed my chance to lock this thread on page 69

awesome setup, I think I'll copy it for the ute that lives outside. those cheapy solar chargers do not work well with good quality (eg AGM) batteries because they don't regulate properly, so while the $80 seems expensive it is actually pretty cheap for that sort of setup

yeah it does look f**king awesome. or at least it did until I took the big jump at targa high country and turned it from an O to a D shape also it is way light, something like 8kg for the cat back....my old steel one was super heavy

lol yeah that didn't go well, did it.... It's kind of hard to answer re the exhaust, I've got it on the race car. It is quieter than the 4" exhaust that it replaced and I don't run the silencer of course. We do a lot of klms cruising on rallies and it didn't worry me. On the other hand I guess plenty of people have found them too loud for street car use because they often turn up second hand and cheap on here....

Yeah FAST wont tell you serial numbers...but in any case why does it matter? I would have thought the important question is whether the engine in the car is good, not whether its ever had to be changed?

ummm funnily enough, I do

hmm what is it about hammers, you just demanded I buy a bigger one because the current one was too small....

lol I know it wasn't literally all night...but remember going to bed at 1 and back up at 5 at a certain rally last year.....

Sorry I didn't pay enough attention to your first sentence If the cams are out you are fine.....just turn the crank to where you want it (on the timing marks, or as jiffo said just past if you want a margin of safety) the put the cams in and turn them to the same place. You wont have valves touch pistons until the cam caps are tightened down, until then the valve springs will hold every valve closed (up)

Just a quick plug for Optima batteries for doing the right thing! I've got a couple of cars that don't get used much, and I got sick of having to buy new batteries every 6 months after letting them drain too much to recover; so I switched to AGM batteries. While they cost about 50-100% more than lead acid, they are very good with recovering if they ever get fully discharged. I bought an Optima D51 from the cheapest place I could find on ebay about 2.5 years ago, and when it died recently I got back in touch as they have a 3 year warranty. The ebay seller was very unhelpful and difficult, but after we talked a bit about warranties and fair trading he put me in touch the Graeme at Optima. Graeme was very helpful, and once I provided a copy of the battery bar code, a battery test result from the local battery world, and a copy of the receipt, a brand new battery was couriered to me the next day. So anyway, huge thumbs up to Optima for honouring their promises without any fuss

You almost certainly haven't hurt it already if you were just turning it by hand, valves are pretty tough. To put it back you just need to time it like always.....have the balancer and both cams on the 0 degree markings. If it was nowhere near the 0 marks when you took the belt off you made it hard for yourself, so turn both cams and the crank evenly and in small increments until you get to 0.

yeah mate, I never left....just put it on hold. for too damn long! brake parts courtesy of Matthew at Racebrakes Sydney The car runs standard size discs front and rear as per Production Car specs (DBA5928 on the front and DBA4929 on the rear). For calipers we can upgrade from standard as long as it fits the standard disc and has the same number of pistons as stock, so I run 996 Porsche calipers on the front with adapters, and gtr brembos on the rear For pads I've taken Matthew's advice and am giving Winmax a go, W7 compound on the front (WMP780-W7) and W3 compound on the rear (WMP330-W3). The last pads I had were Pagid Rs14 and while they worked well, they fell about after about 50% wear.

yeah, the same and a lot cheaper. the only difference is a GTR vs Stagea logo on the centre cap. The other cheap, excellent wheels are 33 GTR

Holy shit, how fast were you guys driving to get that far in 5 1/2 minutes!!

Hi mate, just recheck your pic, it shows 23300-20P05, not what you posted above (-20P050). You could always buy brand new from amayama but ouch! US519 https://www.amayama.com/en/search?q=23300-20P05. I don't know how to reverse search to a model, but your number matches an R33 GTST VIN that I have. It has an alternate part number 23300-AA300 which will be a direct fit, and another part number 23300-08U15 for a different "specification"....my non-existent Japanese wont let me work out the difference Anyway, all that aside, if you are happy to buy from Japan just contact Jesse Streeter and tell him you need a starter motor for an RB25 he'll come up with new and 2nd options for you.

There were probably a bunch of CA based motors in the states in small cars in the early 90s that might also suit, I think they were similar