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Everything posted by Duncan
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Drift Skyline R34
Duncan replied to highlander87's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
They are likely to be unrelated problems, and neither would be unusual for a drift car -
Lots of timing lights (generally the less expensive ones) read double the actual timing from the loop at the back, so if you are seeing 30o you can probably read that as 15o
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Yeah that is sad news, by all accounts he was a good bloke as well as a very successful racer. And of course terribly unlucky to have that sort of accident.
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R32 Attessa Disabling Rwd Mode
Duncan replied to MJTru's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
And the only real trick is that the Attessa ECU is also the ABS ECU, so you won't have ABS until you turn off the ignition and back on again. For drag use that is fine, you can do it all quickly. But for things like drifting it's worth keeping in mind. No big fuse required, its no more than 10 or 15A -
Sounds exactly like a boost leak to me, I would start with that, particularly If the smoke is black. And a big leak, so start with the intake and cooler piping
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Importing A 32
Duncan replied to Soli93's topic in Importing, Compliance, Modification Laws & Regulations
The 2nd import I bought I did a lot of that myself. While you won't need a agent to buy the car you will still need one for shipping as they deal with all the customs and quarantine. You could either use one of the usual agents on here like Iron Chef (who I'm sure could reduce their overall fee) or find a car shipping agent. -
To Delete Or Not To Delete
Duncan replied to Velict's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
I haven't tried back to back, but almost no cars use a clutch booster.....Nissan over engineered a lot with the GTR which is great, but I think in this case it wasn't necessary -
Congrats on taking out the state champs.....you are going to need a bigger pool room
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Educated Guess At The Final Tune Results
Duncan replied to Nismo 3.2ish's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
good to see it has come up OK now. An ARDC practice day is not the place to go unless you've done a lot of track work, it will be full of experienced racers trying to get their cars sorted and not beginner friendly. You would be much better to go to one of John Boston's days at Wakefield, they get posted in NSW events. Or join SAU NSW and go to the track day at Eastern Creek, that will also be better then ARDC open practice/ -
oh I should add, the most recent race magazine had a long interview with Fred Gibson and it mentioned something about the turbos there....pretty sure it related to modified thrust bearings which also means it would have been bush not ball bearing turbos. the magazine is a great read for anyone interested in the Gibson cars history
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D51 is more than enough, I've been running one in my 3l stagea for years. don't forget these are reasonably low compression motors with good electronics so they start pretty easy. The only time I'd be a bit hesitant is if you have an aftermarket tune without good cold start.....even then you are a better to fix the cold start than get a bigger battery. Like Junkie said the problem you are most likely to have is with poor adaption of the wrong battery size to the factory loom. Its the sort of thing that is normally OK for a while then you start to get annoying drop outs or undercharging because of poor connections. BTW I think its D51R to get the terminals around the right way, double check before you order. The have models with terminals on either side, and also in either size
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definitely 100% not -5s, they came along about 15 years later. there are guys on here who know what they ran for sure, but I'll bet the were big old modified bush bearing things in the original/factory housings. The R32 production Nismo and then N1 models had big bush bearing turbos and I'll bet that's what they started with. We have to run the original turbs for racing rules and they are nasty, old fashioned things. They spool as slow as a -5 but only give the power of a -7, about 250kw at 12psi BTW, I note the GCG website says "This Turbocharger is the turbocharger that was fitted on the Bathurst Nissan Skyline R32 GTR", and I still bet it's not true
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Tips On Getting The Attessa 4wd To Engage Faster
Duncan replied to MJTru's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
I guess you are using this for drag racing use only, for circuit or rally use there are a range of electronic controllers that give excellent results. For drag use I've either seen custom system like you are looking at, OR, HKS used to make a controller for drag racing that provided a fixed split. There is nothing wrong with the mechanical system for drag use, you just want it to operate at a different time....so the right computer is all you need -
Where To Find Transfercase Parts
Duncan replied to MJTru's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
Hi mate, firstly please be aware I'm just looking this up, they are not part numbers I can personally confirm as correct. 31536-05U00 is the driven plate and 31532-05U00 is the clutch plate They are section 333 in FAST Any Nissan deal can order based on those part numbers (although they may choose not to). Websites like amayama.com will also deliver based on those genuine numbers -
great post, this quote from the article was spot on... We buy chemicals and sprays at a local parts house and think to ourselves how can this be so bad health wise if we use it, I am buying it over the counter?
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I just wanted to clarify, there is no issue with running the pump at full voltage at all times, it certainly won't cause it to run rich or anything like that (the fuel pressure regulator manages pressure, the pump has no impact unless it can't provide full pressure to the FPR - in which case your engine will almost certainly go bang). I guess they run at lower voltage stock to keep the fuel cool by not pushing it through the system unnecessarily. It returns to full voltage once you leave idle anyway. One thing to watch, the ECU uses the negative side to stop the pump running when the engine isn't (after priming) so you do still need the negative from the ECU. If you directly earth the pump you will lose that important safety feature.
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I feel dirty approving this as a motorsport build, but hey it seems to have a cage
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Fatz Gtr Reliability Testing
Duncan replied to fatz's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
nasty. where is the love these days. you've both changed -
lol silver is partly to find leaks, its much easier to see what is happening when everything is not black on black. both the xfer case and gerbox have breathers from the factory, they a plastic lines that run to the top of the bellhousing. A coolant leak near the RH steering rack is most likely from one of the water lines under the manifold. Like the oil it drops from the block, pools on top of the diff, then runs off backwards (over the steering rack) or forwards (over the front diff cover)
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I was with shannons with both the cars and house for years because they were cheap up front for premiums However I had 2 major troubles with 2 different claims and would never use them again (pm for details). What use is a cheap premium when you they make claiming as difficult as possible... BTW they are owned by Suncorp and have been for a while. So they are just a pretty logo and funny ads over a big old fashioned financial institution
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well that's not so bad (although frustrating of course). do you have the breather extension on the transfer case? It should end on top of the gearbox bellhousing where it bolts to the motor. If yes, you can be sure it is a leak not just the xfer case breathing. If no, it will be hard to tell (so add a breather!). If it is a leak the fitting at the rear to the resoviour is a common point, try nipping it up. Also possible check the drain plug. If neither of those it is probably the o-ring at the rear of the case. The leak at the DS steering boot will be from the block where the oil filter is stock. What oil filter setup do you have? in any case check tightness there, although it can be really hard to get to properly. For coolant it can be lots of places. Get a pressure test done, until you do there is nothing but frustration ahead because apart from just the leak, you will also lose coolant under pressure, eventually resulting in overheating (or continual top ups)
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ahh we've all had those days. was it just blowby or something more serious
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no matter how well behaved Cheryl is, I think 4wd might be the way to go this weekend. Snow forecast says And this was apparently the highway just outside Tamworth....