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Duncan

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Everything posted by Duncan

  1. no problems, and yeah it was a good weekend. but what happened to "f**k you're boring Handley, next time I'm brining Pete to drink beer and talk shit all night" Its great to have nothing to fix on a Skyline all weekend, and well done for good times and taking out the class.
  2. I enjoy irony.....this is his expensive new cheater tyre on the way down to the dummy grid yesterday....
  3. jesus mate, you are doing reliability testing....are you trying to make sure it spends even less time on the track than it has lately?
  4. Hill climbs are awesome....I'm up giving Neil a hand at the state champs at Grafton this weekend...Mick is meant to be heading up here too. There is one at Buladelah and it is f**king awesome....imagine closing a 3 lane road and letting people drive up it at full speed. A few others around like Bathurst, Huntley in Wollongong etc
  5. I use a 170CCA Odyssey battery in the race car and I've never had a problem. Remember turbo cars have lower compression so the starter needs less effort to turn them over.
  6. lol it was on sale from 2012 to 2015 and I get the first question the day after it sold!? Not sure where it was made, I assume china....I bought it through Just Jap
  7. OK, I need space (and cash!) to get the race car running again, so all this has to go! Wheels Set of 6 Volk Racing Le37 in 18x9.5 +12 Excellent light (only 19kg with tyres!) and strong wheels in a great offset to suit GTRs $2,500 Hankook Z221 tyres 295/30ZR18 Medium Compound (C50) Brand new in plastic $1,400 Dunlop Sport Maxx TT tyres 225/55R17 Suit a 6-8" wide 17" rim Top quality street tyres $750 Wideband 02 sensor controller Tech edge 2CO, brand new (worth $230) Just add a cable, sensor and display and you have a working setup $180 32 GTR Rear Swaybar With links and bushes Good upgrade for S chassis $100. Battery Box. Projecta BB285 $20 32 Heater core and box $100 32 Radiator top mounts Brackets in excellent condition, brand new genuine rubber mounts (21506-01U00) $20 RB26 Engine Covers set 1 Cam covers, valley cover, timing cover, plenum Perfect for powercoating to whatever colour/finish you prefer $600 RB26 Engine Covers set 2 Cam covers, timing cover Perfect for powercoating to whatever colour/finish you prefer $400 JJR RB26 sump baffles Brand new Suit standard sump $250 Everything is located in Sydney, free pick up of $10 flat rate delivery to Sydney or Canberra metro.
  8. oh yeah, a Neil got a clean new ashtray
  9. Oh sorry to hear that....your Nissan-ness is continuing to decrease If she doesn't mind the look, Cubes are an excellent buy. More practical and 20% cheaper than the equivalent Micra
  10. well a smoke test is the best way to get to find a vacuum leak, but it requires specialist equipment. Easiest thing to do is to give it to someone who does this all the time unless you are familiar, there are billions of pipes and they won't be standard on your setup As far as finding it yourself, I'd start with the main intercooler pipes in the engine bay and under the front bar, they are by far the most likely. They check the BOV return lines wherever they plumb back in. Then the boost controller lines and their attachment to the wastegate. Then however your AAC is linked up, that should cover most of the vacuum lines.
  11. Price drop to $7k....I'd rather this went to an SAU-er to look after
  12. lots of things getting ready to head out.... spare driveshafts for reco-ing off to Award gearbox and diff once I get hold of a 32 GTR diff (the missing link) +32 GTR diff = spare short ratio 2 way mechanical diff They can also put these 2 together.... + And reco this More pressing before these + rear subframe can go off to Craved for powder coating This is ready to head off to TCH to measuring and machining for assembly as a spare
  13. soo...yeah, haven't got far on the car lately, I've been clearing/sorting/cleaning a bunch of spares I unpacked from the container so I have space to do the real jobs. And cleaning is totally uninteresting so it's not going too quick. I've pretty much finished all the spares today, including today on the sandblaster....does a damn good job compared to scrubbing became Its also funny how many of some things I have, some need to go up for sale, some to scrap.....like this manifold collection, 4 are warped, only 4 are good....
  14. yep Neil's a lightweight.....easily replaced by a battery and a spanner or 2
  15. Well I've got no direct experience with adjusting track either, except to say they aren't even stock, and I know lots of cars have a very wide variance from factory too....so I'd guess it isn't an issue As for the traction arm, adjustable ones are a disaster unless you get a proper wheel alignment at the same time. The only thing they really do is control/adjust bump steer, so if you put adjustable ones in and don't set the bump steer you've almost certainly made it worse. On the other hand, if you *know* you have a bump steer problem, they are the way to fix that. As usual I'd use bushes not rose joints so they last a bit longer.
  16. Thanks for the clear comms about what happened Ciaran.
  17. To be honest, if something occurred and conversations are to be shut down, it looks like the club execs are hiding something. While I've got no idea what happened, as a club member I'd appreciate communication of the basics. Did someone die? Did a car get written off doing helis on the grass? Did someone break a fingernail? All these things have happened before in the community. Stonewalling makes it look like something terrible needs to be hidden; ask the Catholic Church how that turns out.
  18. well I did mean front, moving the LCA out works nicely and keeps everything lined up OK. In the rear I'm not allowed to change the mounting points so I haven't in the race car. We did a whole heap of work on another 32 years ago including 3 mounting points for the LCA to lower the car without stuffing the roll angles but that car never ran so I don't know if it helped. Certainly you would not need to move the rear LCA out to get more camber, there is already plenty available just with bushes.
  19. yeah that's what we have to do in production cars; ie inner end of the LCA control arm can be moved to "achieve the required alignment"....which in my case was about 10mm out. its the best way to achieve camber at the front. I guess you are talking about S chassis (struts) but in double wishbone shortening the upper arm reduces the overall track while moving the LCA out increases it.
  20. and, it had probably been too long since the last bleed....the better the brake fluid the more water it attracts, and the more often you should bleed it through...
  21. both good vids....presenter in the second one seems a bit sus though
  22. Threads merged. Please don't start a new thread to continue a discussion, particularly in the Builds section.
  23. I disagree, they are not crap. I used multiple sets over many years of hard street/light track use. They don't necessarily squeal (of course no manufacturer would knowingly release a product that couldn't be used). They are nasty for dust though.... Squealing happens because of high frequency vibration. You need to make sure all the surfaces are super clean (use brake cleaner generously). Ensure the surface between the hub and disc is free from rust so the disc sits flat. Ensure the caliper mounting to the hub is clean and straight. Make sure you have the anti rattle shims and that they are very clean on both sides too. And like Ravi said, try bedding them in again. How did you do it the first time? Are the discs new, old but machined or just old?
  24. jeebus. holler for a marshall!
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