Duncan

Actually the Productivity Commission report explicity recommended removal of restrictions on importing cars under 5 years old from 2018 when the local manufacturers shut. Geoff from Prestige made the point that the entrenched interests who currently get to charge monopoly prices will do everything possible to stop us getting cheaper cars: http://us4.campaign-archive2.com/?u=785a84e1e4c70bea6ac88ed68&id=e5e13929e1&e=e6437996df

Holy Shit, that car reminds me of buster!

good point, and well made.

I cut out a whole bunch of wires inside the inner guards. think most stuff still works OK?

Its called "f**k I forgot that f**king metal plate again". probably the same across all RBs as well, so VL commodore would also suit

Brand new wide band controller for sale. Full details here: http://www.wbo2.com/2c0/default.htm Cost me $230, selling for $180, get a bargain! All you need to add for a full o2 sensor setup is a cable, sensor and display for about $250 all up.

I've got the cargo blind for sale out of my Stagea....I've had it out of the car for a while because I've been lugging stuff, so I figured I'd better pass it on $100 delivered in Sydney or Canberra metro, sorry no postage the damn thing is big! Also comes with a genuine rear cargo net

The cams fuel rule applies to all speed events including super sprints and hillclimbs, from schedule A 11. save for 1st Category automobiles, be fitted with a bulkhead constructed from a flame- and liquid-proof material. This bulkhead shall effectively seal the cockpit from the fuel tank or re-fuelling system. If the material is clear it shall be a minimum of 6mm thick; It's not like everyone follows this fully, but it is pretty clear. I've never seen an AASA rulebook but the scrutineers generally want the same as cams rules.

CAMS is crystal clear that the entire fuel system must be SEALED from the cabin. I run the surge tank under the car for that reason. I've also seen Perspex boxes in the boot to do the same. Well, and to make sure I don't die a horrible fiery death. At least not due to a fuel leak in the cabin

that's pretty cool shell...we need more guilt toy types on here, good to see him back. Anthony I've got a spare shroud for short term loan (will need it back in a few weeks), let me know if I should bring it down next week.

DOT 3, 4 and 5.1 brake fluids are all compatible with each other. DOT 5 apparently is not compatible but I've never come across it. In the olden days, the higher number was meant to mean better performance (ie higher boiling point) but some of the best brake fluids now days are DOT 4.

yep, clutches don't just slip because they are worn. They also slip if they get too hot (probably what happened here) or if you have too much torque for the clamping pressure. BTW if the thrust bearing was noisy change it while it's all apart. cheap and quick fix when it's opened up

top advice...you'll get the right valved shocks at the right price....plenty on here are happily running these. I've had mine for about 8 years, still going strong.

fark you post fast! I'd put anything in a roady, I use some generic ATF in my stagea's xfer case. For track/race use I've had good result with the transmax

awesome...you beat me to it So, assuming you dropped the gearbox oil it currently has nothing in it....better get it filled. And you need auto trans oil in the transfer case not gear oil, so you need to drop and replace that too

hmm you must have been in the same queue as my check, took bloody ages to come back. And I'm not really happy, the old place got taken over and the new reports no longer provide reference / benchmark data. I did call up and ask and they confirmed they would not do it anymore, just an overall OK or not.....they expect us to send multiple samples to show a trend over time

I'm a little late.....but fking love that car

I've run both the mediums and hard V70a on the GTR and was happy with them. Just bought another set of mediums the other day for hillclimbs I found the mediums were destroyed on a 20 lap race on a hot day though, the hards were fine for sessions up to an hour without undue wear. And they grip very well long after the visible tread is gone (it is designed to wear off early in the tyre's life, the wear indicators are on the 2 main grooves). I have no experience with their softs; but I would have gone them for hillclimbs if I could of got them...you can't have too soft for a hillclimb Also one thing to keep in mind with these, on the GTR and GTSt at least, they work best at 44psi hot. I tried them at both 42 and 46 and they were slower.

to suit opposing piston callipers like skyline brembo and sumitomos, right? where and how much?

before you give up, it may well be an exhaust leak not a fuel leak, especially when they are cold and rich the smell is very similar. check the manifold, dump and zorst for leaks around the gaskets. and also issues with sealing between the engine bay and cabin

seriously, is this forced induction all of a sudden? off topic and personal attacks removed.

wot...now I've got to look at all the pics?? btw good post jiffo...you obviously know the pain

oh btw your engine was not at top dead centre before you removed the timing belt which will make it very tricky to put back together. you are going to need to either rotate absolutely nothing until the timing belt is back on, or slowly and carefully rotate the crank and both cams (by very small amounts) back to TDC. Or just remove the cams, then rotate everything, then put the cams back in

these are sometimes easy but more often a total PITA to get off. the one things I've always found is once you start to pull it crooked it gets impossible to remove....so before you go further give it some light taps back towards the engine, get some light grease on the crank nose and try again, evenly and slowly. but it is likely if you've already put force on it that it will be cocked and never coming off. if so, just cut it off. as long as you are careful towards the bottom (eg cold chisel) you won't damage the crank, it will just need a quick cleanup with wet and dry

umm I might be a bit old fashioned, but it looks like you already have more lock than the front end was designed for....do you really need more, more?