Duncan

This sounds like an interesting set of events, good on the exec for putting it together. Can you confirm this will be covered by a CAMS permit?

I've updated the link in the first post of the thread to the current location. Thanks for maintaining this mate

yeah brake noise sucks! but even on the race car with race pads I've been lucky enough never to have the problem. As I understand it, a major source can be dust/rust/whatever between surfaces, in particular where the disc sits against the hub. Give that a good clean down and if necessary a bit of wire brush to make sure there is no rust on the hub. Also thoroughly clean every mating surface with brake cleaner. While that is simple, you'd be surprised how many brake shops don't clean properly; brake cleaner is expensive. BTW you said you were using hawk pads but not which compound? It may well be that they just don't enjoy street use if they are aggressive. Swapping cheap pads to track pads can be quick so there is no need to compromise for a daily driver

well if you know it was working in another car that is much easier. by far the most likely reason to not idle with a changed map would be different injector or AFM size but I guess you would know that already from the other car

I'm not at all familiar with the m35 nismo ECU....but in all other nissans I know of the nismo ECU it is just a modified standard ECU. If it's the same, it is almost certainly a faulty ECU, nothing to do with the fact it is nismo modified or not.

well I'd love to see it happen but I am no longer involved with, or willing to be part of, the NSW committee. I'd suggest you contact the new Pres Ciaran (crashdown) and make the suggestion.

man I remember that BMC saga from the old days....you had some shit luck there. FWIW I told Neil to buy a new one not to f**k around rebuilding the old one..... Good to hear Cheryl is still behaving...get some new tyres and that boost coming on earlier and it should be a ball.

I looked into in when I was running the NSW club, even had a mechanic setup to do the inspections. but we couldn't find the initial 5 cars for CAMS to register us. I guess it will happen once R32s are 30 years old...which is only 5 years away now

oh that's right, only mine seems to do that

big end knock?

I can't make it, but I know Pete and Neil are heading down for a blat

thanks I'm happy to cop shit from the usual suspects so that SAU doesn't become like that thread. I still believe this community has value

Thanks for mentioning the thread guys, it was bullshit. Cleaned up now but it should never have had that much crap for so long. Generally...if someone sees a thread that needs cleaning up please report it. I can't speak for all mods but I for sure don't have time to actively moderate every thread, especially ones that I am not officially a mod for.

This is the Build section not the Wasteland. Off topic posts removed, and future off topic posts will lead to warnings or bannings.

got a link for it, I'd be happy to check it out

Actually I think the gtr workshop manual answers that question, in the water temp troubleshooting section it says to measure voltage between the sender output (ecu 28) and ground, and I should get: 20o = 3v 80o = 1v

My car's been sleeping in a paddock for about 18 months, and when it came back the oil temp and water temp gauges both are not working. Now the checking for 12v power, earth and 12v lights stuff I can do, but I want to confirm how the sender wiring works. The water temp gauge just taps into the ECU water temp sender. Am I correct assuming that the sender works by showing a resistance compared to earth? Am I also right saying if I measured voltage compared to a good 12v source it would show something like a couple of volts when cold and closer to 12v when hot (depending on the exact calibration of the sender)? If not, how can I get a basic indication that the sender is connected properly and sending a reading to the gauge? Same question for the oil temp gauge but it has 2 wires to the sender. Will one be earth (from the gauge) and the other the return signal? If I measure the resistance between the 2 it would decrease as the oil gets hotter?

not really...I have a sticker cutter and cut up my own. They are only a couple of hundred bucks compared to many hundreds or even thousands for a professional job

Enough. Regardless of the circumstances, personal threats are not allowed on this forum. Warnings issued. For anyone not clear on the forum rules, please review the guidelines here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?app=forums&module=extras&section=boardrules

+1, good outcome....and maybe buy a lotto ticket now

Hi mate, if he thought he filled the gearbox through the shifter he has made an important mistake and you need to check before you drive any further. The shifter goes into the transfer case, it takes auto trans fluid not gear oil, and only about a litre (from memory, please check!). If he drained the gearbox that potentially means you have no gearbox oil atm either. So you need to get it on a hoist/ramps/stands whatever, find the 2 filler bolts, undo them and see if you can feel fluid in both. Then undo both drain plugs, empty whatever is wherever, and replace them. From memory it's about 1l of auto trans fluid in the transfer case and 4l of gear oil in the gear box. If everything else is in good condition this is a cheap and easy fix.

Hey mate there is a really narrow one now available: http://justjap.com/index.php/d1-spec-slim-steering-wheel-quick-release-black.html I have one here, if you have the other style I'd be happy to swap (because I prefer the deeper style). It is 22mm deep vs the old style which is 56mm deep.

painful job? did you just put a second handy in?

Congrats to the new committee....looking forward to what you have in store

indeed....I think it will go better with the extra 100kw