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Duncan

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Everything posted by Duncan

  1. BTW threads merged. No need to start 2 on the same issue....
  2. might also be called inner and outer tie rod ends. they are the first thing to bend in a side on impact so they are a common replacement
  3. Howaitonaito it sounds like you would be more constructive to bring your concerns to the AGM and try and do something about them, than in trying to drag down a new and innovative event that the Exec are trialing. If you read the club constitution you will see it clearly states we are a "Skyline" enthusiast club which covers everything that has ever had that nameplate since 1955. And whenever there has been an older or newer model than the more common 32-34 series it has always led to compliments and interest. It is up to the membership, you included, to make this club what you want it to be.
  4. My experience with Shannons was excellent at all times when I was paying them, but things went sharply downhill when I needed to claim (on 2 occasions), including a case I needed to take to the industry ombudsman after their admin error cost me a lot of money. Keep in mind that despite all the bullshit about being enthusiasts that they are just a brand of Suncorp these days and they act accordingly. I am now with Lumleys who were about 20% cheaper for the same insurance. Haven't had to claim yet so who knows if they will be just as difficult.
  5. sorry was that for 18x10+20? ie fronts and rears needed a roll. If so, I don't get why people go 18x10+15 which are even worse??
  6. yeah DIY is very do-able, cleaning it out is the pain as said above. Also check for rust in the channel that holds the window, and also rust or damage to the "waist mould" that goes along the top of the door. the only other issue can be adjusting the window afterwards (we had heaps of trouble in the 350z) but I think a 33 should be old enough to just do a straight replacement without any annoying adjustments.
  7. Actually there was already a review of Import laws underway prior to the election and the 3 manufacturers pulling out which received a bunch of submissions from manufacturer/official importers, aftermarket importers and personal users. The initial findings are here: http://www.pc.gov.au/__data/assets/pdf_file/0006/132981/automotive-position.pdf?utm_source=Prestige+Motorsport+Mailing+List&utm_campaign=9fa3cbbeff-Cars+of+the+Day+--+13+June+2013&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_56b53b869f-9fa3cbbeff-23360817 This was Geoff from Prestige's summary; This report is encouraging in terms of Australia moving towards accepting international safety standards rather than having our own set of ADR's and for import restrictions such as SEVS to be lessened or removed. At the same time, the Paper recommends ceasing assistance for car manufacturers to produce cars in Australia. It is certainly a step in the right direction to opening up choice and reducing the price of vehicles in Australia closer to those in the UK, US and NZ, allowing us overall to drive newer, safer and more efficient vehicles for the same money. It will be interesting to see what develops over coming years, and what the result is of the information requests below, the last one in particular. DRAFT FINDING 3.2 The policy rationale for prohibiting the large-scale importation of second-hand vehicles into Australia is weak. However, appropriate regulatory measures are required to ensure that consumer protection, community safety, and environmental performance standards are maintained before the restrictions are removed. These concerns are best dealt with directly, through regulatory standards applicable to all vehicles sold in Australia. INFORMATION REQUEST 3.2 The Commission is seeking further information on the benefits and costs of removing restrictions on the large-scale importation of second-hand vehicles. In particular: • what are the potential costs of removing these restrictions and who bears these costs? • how could compliance with Australian safety and environmental standards be most efficiently ensured? • if the benefits are expected to exceed the costs, how should restrictions be removed and over what timeframe? ------------------------- Frankly I think the initial findings were positive too, and since the manufacturers pulled out it looks even better for getting better cars, cheaper. A lot of people may have forgotten how much freer the system was until RAWS were introduced and the 15yo rule was killed about 2004, which was in response to big lobbying from Toyota etc who did not want to have to compete with their own products...
  8. 1, 1.5 or 2 way is not really the issue in daily driving as said above, the issue is how "tight" or aggressively the diff locks. a standard gtr diff is 2 way but not tight and you will never notice it as an issue in daily driving.
  9. I was going to say.....no wonder guard rolling was required But can anyone confirm 18x10 +20 does fit the front of a 32 without rolling? For OP, if the wheel sits too far in you can always fix it with spacers...if it is too far out there is not much you can do without compromising your wheel alignment.
  10. hmm that is strange....I agree it seems likely it either hit something inside or maybe the lower seal is rusted/loose? anyway, if you find a window in Sydney I can bring it down next week.
  11. Lots of good advice from experienced track-ers here, great to see. Personally I run 4.5o caster, 2.5o camber and 1mm toe out front, and 1.5o camber and 0mm toe rear. It gives a little oversteer on turn in under braking in tight corners but that is my preference. A little rear toe in eg 1mm should stop that too. I would definitely get bigger sway bars both ends too, it makes a big difference (keep the car flat, keeps more tyre on the road to a point) If you have that much go you definitely need to put proper semis on it. You may find the original understeer wasn't so bad with better front grip (yes tyres won't change the balance of the car but you may find it was OK already). I would also get an attessa controller on board, the Ruzic ones from Paul(mountainrunner) up there are the best, but the basic ebay ones will also make a difference. Also depending on the age of the car and xfer case condition, consider getting it rebuilt instead as a controller can only make the most of what the xfer case can manage.
  12. I'd be cautious about wheel nuts for a race car, I've seen lots of nasty ends due to simple problems. In particular I'd never again run alloy ones, steel only for me - I ran alloy for about 2 meets before deciding I didn't like the look of the wear as they came on and off, and got hot. Is the problem that you can't fit the wheel nut into the hole (ie nut too large diameter), or that you can't get the nut onto the thread adequately (studs too short). I recently had trouble getting standard (21mm socket) nuts onto the Leaf's new wheels so I bought these and they have enough space: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=181334793255. Also you can get thin wall sockets for putting wheel nuts on eg http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kincrome-Wheel-Nut-Socket-19mm-Yellow-K2183-/271418431242?pt=AU_Hand_Tools&hash=item3f31cc970a Also just check with the wheel nuts if the wheels are for tapered or flat wheel nuts, eg R34 gtr wheels are for flat wheel nuts, most are tapered like the link above. If you need longer studs you can get hold of them too.
  13. I guess you would smell slipping clutch, but it is reasonably easy to stuff a clutch totally by getting grease on either the clutch or flywheel while it was apart...
  14. also I would go less camber at the rear too, I only run 1.5 and that is on semis not street tyres. A little toe in at the rear (1mm) is will also reduce oversteer When you say extreme oversteer, when does it happen? turning into a corner, mid corner or on throttle application on the way out. How much power do you have, and do you have any diff or transfer case/attessa controller mods?
  15. OP's purpose is "Hillclimbs mainly and the occasional time attack ", OP. I'd also leave the box until you need to change it, and when you do get a dog box in there for the quicker shifts Jimmy anyone can modify the transfer case, it involves adding the correct number of additional clutch plates to preload it. Award did mine.
  16. /slaps me on back of head kind of spewing I didn't think about picking it up down there, but I am in Syd and need to do the measuring today before I put the engine in tomorrow.
  17. lol as it happens I need a dial gauge so I guess I'll be heading by, thanks
  18. hey, no tips about cheap tools the weekend after
  19. yes, yes and yes if you really want to change it, just undo the line at the rear of the gearbox, let it drain out. replace that line (tight but not overtight, maybe clean up the thread and flare fitting because they are prone to leak if not perfect). Fill up reservoir. Start car (out of gear of course) and open bleeder at the rear of the box. If that doesn't bleed through properly you may need to open the second bleed which is above the driver's side rear axle, and hard to get to.
  20. I understood they were identical
  21. There are a couple of things to consider with choosing an aftermarket ECU 1/ if you are automatic, none of them will control the auto trans. This means you lose the function that reduces power slightly when the transmission chooses to change gears which will affect smoothness and possibly shorten the transmission's life. 2/ how hard is it to install an ECU. In your case and plug in for an R34 will be the easiest because as you said only a couple of wires have to be moved. If it is full wire in there will be a significant labour cost to connect and troubleshoot 3/ what does your tuner like. pretty much all ECUs do the basic stuff the same so just pick something your tuner knows well to save cost on tuning. The only feature I can think of that is important in a road car is making sure you can keep the AFM and don't need to swap to a MAP based ECU
  22. ahh good old z, that was fun to hoon in. I wasn't able to be at this one, but I have been thinking that a good addition might be a little more instruction and technique. Yes skids are fun, but I think there is also a space for learning good habits too. I think because the exec tend to be experienced competitors they design for challenge but not always for beginners. A potential idea would be to reserve the first 1/3 of the day for some basic skidpan skills, people who aren't interested in that could arrive at say 11 and miss it all. Suggested exercises like go to whoa (launching and braking), basic 180o turn around a cone (handbrake/understeer control/flick oversteer) and maybe a simple track like multiple loop below (smooth driving, multiple 180 turns and easy to get right) In the end, a texi is not really a doughnut competition is it....
  23. Sorry I don't know much about the Nistune options either, but I do know a Z32 ECU would be a full wire in job which is a bit of stuffing around. You may well need the z32 AFM as well but getting the ECU in and wired is the first trick.
  24. good point, actually I put an rb26 in the stagea the other day, but it didn't go any faster? But I feel like I'm in the wrong thread.
  25. Am I the only one that doesn't understand the question?
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