Duncan

because you've personally killed them all! sorry I am no gearbox expert but with the GTR box I do know there were changes for the last series (series 3 r33), and that the old design was made obsolete. Since the internals are similar/the same are there any series 3 changes you can apply to your box? BTW great to hear the old girl is still hustling around tracks nicely

good luck tomoz!

sorry for the slow response....it must be frustrating getting stuck at this bloody spot! Basically I would get a pry bar (maybe very small at first, maybe even a screwdrive if the fit is very tight) into the area pictured. The end of the drive shaft and the bronze coloured steel shield come out together, so get the bar underneath that bronzy disk and start prying. As it can require some force be careful.....levering stuff out is a really good way to hurt yourself when it does finally let go! Or, since you have the cap off, in the diff centre as pictured are 2 small spider gears, the end of the driveshaft is inside the spider gear and you should be able to get something in there to pry it out too....the pic doesn't really show it because you are looking straight on, try looking from the right side back to the left and you should see the end of the shaft. Failing all that....whereabouts are you? I'm actually in Canberra tomorrow night and can give you a quick hand if you haven't won....

It wasn't really a slapper because I did go a forged bottom end....but I did reuse the original stagea head without refreshing and it has about 300,000klm on it now. getting a bit smokey on deceleration but still makes the same power it always did (250awkw)

I am not certain that r34 is the same, but on 32-33 it is possible to remove it without removing the diff cover (bit late now!). You can pop the driveshaft out even if the circlip is in place using a pry bar. The other end is trickier, I've found the easiest is to remove the lower control arm at the ball joint at the hub.

I like that style of set Eric, and almost went with one for easy use at the race track. but I couldn't find a good quality kit that was metric only....damn seppos.

thanks Jayson Jimmy I did the rear diff 10 years ago The diff(erence) is that rebuilding the standard rear is fine, and as it is used more often is likely to be a bigger difference. In the front the quaife LSD is a particularly good option because will power understeer less than a normal mechanical diff, but it's not a priority unless you are genuinely getting wheel spin at the front wheels.

It's motorsport....it is about times. which is why drift is not motorsport

because $AUD has fallen 15% in the last 3 months Looks like the just jap prices are good, maybe they would discount a little for a couple of them

hmmm I was about to pick up one too.....if someone gets a good group price I'd be in.

what! I was undercover! who wants to be spotted buying cheap, style-less scandanavian furniture!

Umm no Tats is affiliated with Shell, pretty sure Ash is on his own BTW the new Shell ad says: Can anyone tell me how a fuel could possibly add zip or vroom? Or is it just false advertising.

if the studs were overtightened on installation, causing one to break, I would definitely not consider reusing the rest.

Terry at Award Gearbox and Diffs in Seven Hills does a lot of good skyline diff work at a good price. They've done gearboxes and diffs for me in the past

I know you said you changed the battery, so I'll assume you are sure the clamps are tight....but I'd also check the chassis and engine earths are grounded properly and the wiring on the alternator is tight too

I started racing in a FWD. It was cheap, fun and close racing. Yes the handling is different but neither better nor worse than rwd or 4wd to me, just something different to learn

considering bri73y's car has done more racing laps than any other skyline on here in the last 5 years, I'd be listening to his thoughts..... and he's hardly the only one that has demonstrated that a big power car doesn't last well, I haven't seen any of the time attack cars last more than a few days at a time. Which I guess is fine if you know what you are getting in for.

They definitely mean standard...not aftermarket. Also worth being aware that the r32 n1 turbs are nasty big bush bearing 80s technology that spool up slower than -5s

It would have to be the same setup as mine; R32 N1 turbos with 0.8bar boost. Makes about 250kw.

Having said that, I did see a WRX finish the Bathurst 12hours earlier this month

WRXs are far less common and successful in production car racing or tarmac rallies than Evos are. Actually, Evos are like arseholes....

BTW if the parts department told you it was "illegal" to give you a part number you should report them to their manager. They may decide not to give you the part#, but it is certainly not illegal.

Luke what is your ride height, wheel alignment, which tyres, and what is wrong with the handling that you are trying to fix?

Yeah 180kw at 3500 is pretty fun, I'd be surprised if there were many RB setups making that sort of power I'm actually not sure of the exact turbo specs; I originally had an ebay "T3/4" bush bearing turbo on there and put a garret ball bearing core in when it failed. If it helps the turbo anorak wearers the core tag says "PC 0105J 7-6451-5005". But whatever it was, it was spot on what I was after

I've had trouble with cheap timing lights reading double on the gtr, I ended up with a snap on one. For the impact wrench I ended up going the Makita 18v one. Its not the best or torque-iest but has been sufficient for everything I've tried it on. More importantly thought they have a range of other 18v cordless stuff without batteries (skin only) at prices that I can afford to collect few different things at...I've got impact wrench, drill, screwdriver, recipro saw, line trimmer etc. Stubborn balancer bolts are best removed with one of those "power bars" basically a long arm with a 1/2" socket fitting that you whack with a hammer...I'm sure they've been covered earlier in this thread.