Duncan

Thanks guys. I did see the generic info in Paul's guide (which is excellent BTW) However I'm looking for more specific info or experience if possible. Here is the pic from Paul's doc: There is also troubleshooting info on EN-311 of the R33 Engine Manual (translated by JPNZ) There should be constant power on pin 58. The ECU then earths pin 16 to ECCS relay pin 2 (and ECCS relay pin 1 should get power from the same 30A fuse as ECU pin 16). When that happens the ECCS relay then has power (from the same source as ECCS pin 1 and ECU pin 16) which turns on the ECU via pins 49 and 59 and 109. And I understand all that complexity is so that the ECU can turn itself off after the ignition turns off; this allows both the standard ECU and PowerFC to write back changes to ROM before shutting down (and this is why when I pull the kill switch to stop the car that the PowerFC doesn't save changes) So; that all sounds good; except I can't find power at ECU pin 58, ECCS pin 1, 3 or 5 at any time. This does not match the manual. Engine manual EN-312 shows there should be continuity between ECCS 3 and ECU 49/59. I have no continuity there, but instead have continuity from pin 5 to ECU 49/59. So, it does not match the manual there either. So given all that; I was hoping someone might have direct experience; perhaps the Series 2 R33 wiring is a little different to the manual. Does anyone know the location of the "30A" fuse shown on the diagram above? EN-312 calls it F/L-6 which I would expect to find in the boot next to the battery (BTW I have checked all fusible links and fuses in the boot and driver's side dash, all are fine). So given all that; if there is no other specific info I will wire up a fused 12v source to ECU 58 and ECCS 1 and ECCS 3 (not 5 due to the continuity difference) and see if that brings it all to life. I'm away for a week so am hoping for some tips before I have to start cutting

Yeah thanks guys, I am sure the immediate issue that prevents starting is insufficient power to the fuel pump relay = no fuel pressure = no bang. And that appears to be caused by very low voltage at the PFC (8.4v not 12+). The map may not be usable but I have a datalogit and can reset it if necessary. Do you know what the short was? I suspect it is something nasty like that....so any hints will help. Sean, would love any more hints or a link (i'll have a poke around). I did see some threads talking about a fuse or relay which doesn't prevent the std computer running, but does prevent a PFC working properly. I didn't find specifics though, so I would love more info if someone has some

Hey mate I'll try and get back to you tonight; and re cages the guy I would have recommended is no longer in business....they were good and cheap but too late now. Any decent welder can do a decent cage like my car has, if you want something a bit special they generally get very expensive. Probably easiest way is to get a pre bent hoop from Bond cages and get someone to do the rest custom

I've got a bit of a strange problem. 33 gtst (series2) starts and runs fine with a standard ECU Put a PowerFC in it, and it does not start. I've tried 2 different PowerFCs with the same result (could just be unlucky but seems very unlikely). Other than not starting, the other obvious issue was the fuel pump relay clicking like crazy. Finally, the PFC only shows 8.4v although the battery voltage is a healthy 12. I get 12v everywhere except at the ECU. Any ideas?

looks like the correct way to do it to me; a rattle gun is guess and giggle torque, with a torque wrench you will get it right. Also a rattle gun is likely to push past a minor obstruction or burr which in turn makes it hell to get off again afterwards.

it doesn't really help you, but I get way motion sick when passengering, and can't read for even a minute while travelling without getting sick. BUT, fortunately, it never happens when I have the steering wheel, NFI why. Some people can travel, head in the pace notes at race speed, navigating, some can drive but not nav, I guess it is just luck. BTW is it possible the car is just under damped and bouncing on the springs?

try Lumley special vehicles; I found them cheaper than Shannons for the same cover. Good to hear you are getting your hands on it

yep, essentially. 10% shorter gears are effectively 10% more torque at any given speed, with a trade off against top speed (which has never been an issue for me on any track I've been to). particularly useful for me because I have to run nasty, laggy r32 n1 turbos.

haha good work Eric doesn't that evo have both some go, and some working aero

busy day! I replaced the factory radiator because it had sprung a leak while towing to Bulldelah with a cooling pro one from Just Jap. Actually I'm pretty surprised the original lasted over 300,000klm including about 120,000klm with the 3l.

Yeah I didn't look into the new price from Nissan; after all you are only reusing 2 gear wheels not the centres. As for the gains; I did the change years ago so I can't really confirm back to back any more...I do know that I can hose those pesky Emos and WRXs off the line these days (it launches like a champ). More importantly in my case, because I have to run nasty 80's bush bearing turbos, lower gearing definitely helps get them come on earlier. The only place where I came close to having an issue was Phillip Island, and even there I was only doing about 6000 in 5th on the straight.

BTW while I got mine from a gts4, I think stagea might be easier to find, you still have to remember to get both front and rear of course.

Yeah I got mine as a pair from a wrecked GTS4. I kept the std rear centre (2way), the only parts you need from the gts4 are the crown wheel and pinion.

Yep it was lovely to drive with no bad habits. More than 150kw could have been helpful considering it was a hillclimb, and very open, but I'm happy with how it went; and there were plenty of cars there with less power

actually it drives beautifully and very predictably, and has done more motorsport in the last 3 years than any other SAU car I can think of. I'd have it in a second over most cars around the forums.

run 3:

Here's the incar from my runs: run 1: run 2:

that is a classic way to park a civic at woolies, love it

yeah I much prefer doing everything I can.....at least that way if a mistake happens I only have me to blame. I've had too many bad experiences with shops over the years, they all make mistakes, and some of them are really f**king rude when they do. you are doing this job right? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pOLVV7HYkZs. I'd take it to a mechanical workshop rather than pedders personally....like I said, if you get stuck I can bring it back and do it next weekend but a press is a pretty common tool. I recently did all the bushes on the ute, the only ones that were really an issue were the front LCA inner bushes in the chassis, they were an arsehole to remove....couldn't press them out with a g-clamp (saw your cool tool ), ended up burning and recipro sawing them out.

probably, but not exactly sure what you need. do you need to separate a ball joint from some sort of rod end, or do you need to press a ball joint out of a control arm. if it's number 1 I can bring one down tomorrow, if its number 2 I could do it over the weekend (but I guess you could get any local shop to do it too)

Pete, I did my best but she just wouldn't blow up. Hopefully there are good burnout vids, but Matt's were heaps better than mine. And Brian's burn outs sucked

Thanks to everyone for heading up to support the club team today. It was a great event, shame it finished a bit early due to the big storm. Lots of quick cars although some of the fancy time attack did not end up at the pointy end of the field. 1st was heafy's evo, 2nd fernance evo, 3rd mckinnon. Our guys came home: Nick 8th 41.24 Brian 11th 42.32 Matt 30th 46.63 Me 32nd 46.75 Maurice 41st 51.38 Well done for everyone giving it a go in tricky conditions, and from me particular thanks to Neil for handing over Cheryl's keys when I couldn't get ready in time. And most of all, good on Nulon for putting this event together, looking forward to the next round at wake on 4 July

Hey mate, once you get into the super secret member's section, there is a club club motorsport thread to check out. This particular event is a little different, but generally hillclimbs are regular, accessible, and excellent fun

yep, and I'll bet ICI (and the compliancer) both want this finished ASAP too, because they make a fixed price on their service, so the longer it takes the less money they make. And you can bet they don't enjoy having to make and take calls chasing it up all the time. I was just thinking back; in the last 15 years I've imported via a broker 3 times (gtr, stagea, cima) and bought an import locally twice (gtst, cube). I paid way more on the local buys and had smooth imports for the GTR and Stagea, but the Cima was frustratingly slow through compliance. SOmetimes (mostly?) you are lucky, sometimes not. I think the real issue are DOTARS, they are not commercial enterprises and have no interest/care for how long their process takes or the impact on people trying to import. The people working there might be OK too, but clearly the department is understaffed and has no SLAs overall.

FAQ #1 from the Iron Chef website. http://www.ironchefimports.com/site/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=17&Itemid=31 Do I just pay you the whole lot up front? This is one of the first things most people ask me, and the answer to this is no, because I am a broker, not a car salesman! My role is to provide a service – that of helping you bring the car in yourself.