Duncan

just work from their catalogue, and get a couple of quotes from local resellers. sp toolkits are here http://www.sptools.com/en/product-list-2014/tool-kits-en-2-3-4/#ty;pagination_contents;/en/product-list-2014/tool-kits-en-2-3-4/ most of my stuff is kincrome supplied by a local auto one, but you could also order them thru bunnings (lowest price guarantee). I'm not a tool brand whore but didn't want cheap either (broken tools cause ouchies).

Yep, Matt at Racebrakes in Wetherill Park. Knows his stuff and will probably have the rebuild kit in stock

well, it may not be the FFP, it doesn't have an coolant does it? the best way to sort this sort of thing is a radiator pressure test; any mechanic should be able to do it free or cheap. It will confirm if there is a leak, and you can often hear exactly where the leak is coming from. small leaks are generally radiator cap faulty, pinhole in the radiator (what I just had)

personally I would not buy a kit with AF tools, unless you use them for something. Try and find the same sort of size without the AF and save a bit. I put together a set of the stuff I needed in EVA and its been great compared to having everything thrown in drawers loose. BTW like Zeb said you may well find physical stores can match or better prices if you can pick up; they have good margins on those kits.

actually I took poetic license because I only made it to murwullimbah/tweed heads (figured that was close enough ) but i'll call you for a beer next time I'm in town

yeah I did swap the ECCS relay for the HICAS relay from the boot with no change. But I don't think it's that because pin 1 of the relay never gets 12v so it could never work. I just don't understand how it can be a wiring issue when the ECU loom is all standard....but that is none the less what it seems

totally agree, I love R31 Stageas. good luck with your plans

have you got a pic? do you just mean the bolts are too long and go through the hub and then all the way to the disc? If so, replace with a shorter bolt (any bolt shop should have something to match, even Bunnings might), just make sure it is grade 8.8 or higher

I'm not familiar with stock rb30 pistons, but stock rb26 pistons have 05U and a dot indicating front. So if 67S20 is the end of a Nissan part number it seems likely they are standard. And therefore standard bore as well which is good

Did the timing belt (turns out it is from a Volkswagon Passat), water pump, cam and oil pump seals, idler and tensioner bearings for the second time (the engine has about 180,000klm on it now). It does use a bit of oil by now, the head in particular was not reco-ed when the rb30 was built so it has 300,000klm+ on it. Then loaded the kids into the back took it for a leisurely drive up to queensland for a week away. It's thirsty and noisey with that exhaust, but it didn't miss a beat all trip

sorry I can't help with the auto wiring; but I am pretty sure the black box replaces the earlier gold box as the 4wd sensor (pic is bad, but I think that's it). If so you need to keep it, but reposition it anywhere else available under the console that is flat/level....min is right towards the back of the console

well...that didn't lead to a load of responses. I guess out come the side cutters

I've got a china 3; works fine (Win XP only) but the factory software is terrible to use

Thanks guys. I did see the generic info in Paul's guide (which is excellent BTW) However I'm looking for more specific info or experience if possible. Here is the pic from Paul's doc: There is also troubleshooting info on EN-311 of the R33 Engine Manual (translated by JPNZ) There should be constant power on pin 58. The ECU then earths pin 16 to ECCS relay pin 2 (and ECCS relay pin 1 should get power from the same 30A fuse as ECU pin 16). When that happens the ECCS relay then has power (from the same source as ECCS pin 1 and ECU pin 16) which turns on the ECU via pins 49 and 59 and 109. And I understand all that complexity is so that the ECU can turn itself off after the ignition turns off; this allows both the standard ECU and PowerFC to write back changes to ROM before shutting down (and this is why when I pull the kill switch to stop the car that the PowerFC doesn't save changes) So; that all sounds good; except I can't find power at ECU pin 58, ECCS pin 1, 3 or 5 at any time. This does not match the manual. Engine manual EN-312 shows there should be continuity between ECCS 3 and ECU 49/59. I have no continuity there, but instead have continuity from pin 5 to ECU 49/59. So, it does not match the manual there either. So given all that; I was hoping someone might have direct experience; perhaps the Series 2 R33 wiring is a little different to the manual. Does anyone know the location of the "30A" fuse shown on the diagram above? EN-312 calls it F/L-6 which I would expect to find in the boot next to the battery (BTW I have checked all fusible links and fuses in the boot and driver's side dash, all are fine). So given all that; if there is no other specific info I will wire up a fused 12v source to ECU 58 and ECCS 1 and ECCS 3 (not 5 due to the continuity difference) and see if that brings it all to life. I'm away for a week so am hoping for some tips before I have to start cutting

Yeah thanks guys, I am sure the immediate issue that prevents starting is insufficient power to the fuel pump relay = no fuel pressure = no bang. And that appears to be caused by very low voltage at the PFC (8.4v not 12+). The map may not be usable but I have a datalogit and can reset it if necessary. Do you know what the short was? I suspect it is something nasty like that....so any hints will help. Sean, would love any more hints or a link (i'll have a poke around). I did see some threads talking about a fuse or relay which doesn't prevent the std computer running, but does prevent a PFC working properly. I didn't find specifics though, so I would love more info if someone has some

Hey mate I'll try and get back to you tonight; and re cages the guy I would have recommended is no longer in business....they were good and cheap but too late now. Any decent welder can do a decent cage like my car has, if you want something a bit special they generally get very expensive. Probably easiest way is to get a pre bent hoop from Bond cages and get someone to do the rest custom

I've got a bit of a strange problem. 33 gtst (series2) starts and runs fine with a standard ECU Put a PowerFC in it, and it does not start. I've tried 2 different PowerFCs with the same result (could just be unlucky but seems very unlikely). Other than not starting, the other obvious issue was the fuel pump relay clicking like crazy. Finally, the PFC only shows 8.4v although the battery voltage is a healthy 12. I get 12v everywhere except at the ECU. Any ideas?

looks like the correct way to do it to me; a rattle gun is guess and giggle torque, with a torque wrench you will get it right. Also a rattle gun is likely to push past a minor obstruction or burr which in turn makes it hell to get off again afterwards.

it doesn't really help you, but I get way motion sick when passengering, and can't read for even a minute while travelling without getting sick. BUT, fortunately, it never happens when I have the steering wheel, NFI why. Some people can travel, head in the pace notes at race speed, navigating, some can drive but not nav, I guess it is just luck. BTW is it possible the car is just under damped and bouncing on the springs?

try Lumley special vehicles; I found them cheaper than Shannons for the same cover. Good to hear you are getting your hands on it

yep, essentially. 10% shorter gears are effectively 10% more torque at any given speed, with a trade off against top speed (which has never been an issue for me on any track I've been to). particularly useful for me because I have to run nasty, laggy r32 n1 turbos.

haha good work Eric doesn't that evo have both some go, and some working aero

busy day! I replaced the factory radiator because it had sprung a leak while towing to Bulldelah with a cooling pro one from Just Jap. Actually I'm pretty surprised the original lasted over 300,000klm including about 120,000klm with the 3l.

Yeah I didn't look into the new price from Nissan; after all you are only reusing 2 gear wheels not the centres. As for the gains; I did the change years ago so I can't really confirm back to back any more...I do know that I can hose those pesky Emos and WRXs off the line these days (it launches like a champ). More importantly in my case, because I have to run nasty 80's bush bearing turbos, lower gearing definitely helps get them come on earlier. The only place where I came close to having an issue was Phillip Island, and even there I was only doing about 6000 in 5th on the straight.

BTW while I got mine from a gts4, I think stagea might be easier to find, you still have to remember to get both front and rear of course.