Duncan

mine was very close, even more so because the turbo has a heat sheild; however the stagea factory strut brace does sit very high. I could see a highmount turbo fouling a strut brace pretty easily.

cool pic Joel. this was my result I love how early the car makes full boost.... 180kw at 3,800rpm

I put mine on the dyno at the SAU/Unigroup day on the weekend

I'm surprised by that statement, maybe the budgets are bigger in Victoria. I reckon more track GTRs are running these brake kits which are substantially cheaper and have great results. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/413182-big-brake-group-buy/ The other common option is various big brembo kits, the 356mm FPV kits in particular are excellend value. Not to say there is anything wrong with the alcon kits, just that you can acheive the same result spending far less money

Thanks for putting the day together Sean, Eric and the rest of the committee. And thanks to Mark and Yavuz for their always professional day

we all just have crushed sills mate the car still works the same

thanks mate thanks mate, that is the kind of really simple and obvious ideas that really shit you when you've never thought of them I know how I'll be installing upper arms from now one, on my car they are an absolute bastard

I don't really want to stay involved in this thread because it's a bit silly.....but I will say that a cast wheel will naturally crack, whicle a forged wheel buckles. It's not really a sign of natural superiority of either, just a different way they fail because of the different way they are created. I stand by my opinion that street and track requirements are totally different problems, and that any wheel is fine on a road car.

how about we talk about spotting skylines in this thread, rather than judgements on other people's lives? I'm sure there is a rant thread elsewhere for that

the bearing grades will be very minor differences in clearance...probably 1/10th of 20thou. If you are not buying nissan they will only have one grade. If you are buying nissan you could carefully measure everything....or just pick the middle grade and go with that

well Brad is better to answer that more fully...and he is the person who has got my car handling so well in my case I run a little toe out with the standard upper arms, and therefore little to no toe if I swap to the longer arms. but since I only use the longer arm when it is wet, loosing toe out is actually desirable anyway, because you just don't have the grip to use the extra turn in from the extra toe. do keep in mind that shorter upper arms are not a good thing really....they affect the geometery, flog out the caster and upper arm bushes, change the camber gain in corners and result in a narrower wheelbase. yes they are the easy way to get more camber and are commercially available but not really the good way. Lengthing the lower arms, or moving the lower arm mounting point outwards is a better idea - and in my case is one of the few freedoms allowed in production cars.

remember before the baron, there was mmmgtir

Baron was Beer Baron, so named because he used to bring beer to all the SAU meets. Or you could call him Richard. In any case, it's just about adding some extra clutch plates to the diff. Award can help you with that too. Lots of people may disagree with me...but I reckon you should check out a PAR gear set; they are fine for medium duty track use, heaps of race cars run them in the state champs. it's not cheap...unfortunately the faster you go the more it costs.

my info is that you are a very lucky man to have had enough motorsport to wear out a gearbox. let's face it....some stuff wears out. I'm onto my 3rd box in 8 years. The brand new one I bought lasted OK, but rebuilt second handies have been just as good. take it to award gearbox and diffs, those guys are cheap and actually know their shit with skyline boxes. BTW no point overfilling the gearbox, it will just froth up and flow out the breather.

ahh Brad has already put together a more complete response....but my car handles terribly in the wet, so I have a lengthened pair of upper arms to swap in. of course, it has never been wet once since I started taking the spare set

have someone press the clutch pedal while you watch the rod on the slave cylinder. if the rod moves: broken pivot fork popped off thrust bearing badly bent or farked fork. get under the car, unbolt the slave cylinder and try and move the fork by hand. lots of movement = pivot or fork issue. no movement = something badly jammed, clutch welded to flywheel etc. If the rod doesn't move: system needs a bleed after changing slave (by far most likely, especially if you have the big loop/cooler in your clutch line. Also, in that case there may be a second bleeder in the system on the junction box near the loop new slave also dead or install issue master cylinder stuffed clutch pedal stuffed (common, as blind_elk said)

remind me not to lend you the keys if you regularly hit big potholes. Plus, if you are unlucky and do unavoidably hit one hit one, you should find it reasonably easy to have council replace the wheel as they are responsible for keeping roads properly maintained. road loads and track loads are an order of magnitude different. A quality forged wheel broke in this: http://www.hgeconsul....au/targa04.wmv

yeah I'm really not sure why you've never dropped by for a beer you anti-social bastard

I have one of those on mine (aluminium, not c/f), someone on here used to make them. They are excellent for holding tools while working under the bonnet, no sign of whether it actually helps cool the engine or not.

I agree Charles....is sounds over-cautious but there are some things it is worth checking with a torque wrench, especially if you don't work with bolts all the time. If you do, you pretty quickly get a feel for it...but then why would you be reading a DIY?? Daniel...this is just my experience, and I'm no mechanic. However, I've been lightly greasing wheel studs on all my cars including the race car for years. It guarantees they will come off nicely when you next need them to. I've never lost a properly torqued wheel nut on a greased wheel stud, and I've never had a broken stud, even after years of racing.

I think it's pretty straightforward. Rotas (or pretty much any wheel ever made) are fine for road use. If you like the look, why not save money? People using them for track/rally/drifting whatever are mad, unless they have a specific reason eg sponsorship, or needing lots of wheel because they get through lots of tyres

you know, I had a sneaking suspicion that might be you why else would a vw been hooning along trying to keep up with a stag?

sorry but I am with the nay-sayers on this one....you would have to find some sample prices before expecting this to go far. Motorsport quality c/f is as dear as sin.

only in Ozstraya could that happen

out of interest, what state is Whoop Whoop in?