Duncan

-4 F sounds cold. There is a fuse, it is under a cover on the driver's side lower dash. This is the layout: So check the 3rd fuse and make sure it has not blown. A bit of a long shot but at least it is easy to check. Do you have a multimeter? If so, use that the check the fuse, and if not....take another car to the shop and buy one If the fuse is OK the best thing is to get straight into the fuel pump wiring. Open the boot remove the boot floor (a couple of 10mm nuts from memory) and you will see the fuel tank cover. Remove that too, and unplug the plug with 2 wires (fuel pump wiring, the other plug is the fuel level sender and warning light). Turn the ignition on and immediately (ie within 2-4seconds) check for 12v between the 2 terminals of the plug. If there is power there the fuel pump is not working (no fuel? pump dead? fuel line froze, I think the last one is a joke?). If there is no power there you have an issue in the ECU, relay, wiring or power supply. But before all that, do you have an immobiliser that may have failed? or is it out of fuel? why do you think there is no fuel pressure, do you have a gauge?

great price on those A1RMs for such a big pad. I've run them on the stagea with gtr calipers but never on the race car.

well it is definately an issue with the boost controller or it's plumbing, hopefully they aren't getting you to pay for labour while they learn to do it properly. Boost control is a pretty simple system

I would definately go that way for a start. You won't get a good pad in that size for under $500 so it is worth seeing what you get for that $220

I've never seen a boot resoviour overflow and I doubt it could. Much more likely to be a loose clamp, cracked line, or maybe the fitting at the gearbox leaking.

a first discussion with the insurance company may be to tell them you have 0 money/are in debt and will go bankrupt. If the claim is fake or trumped up to make money they will drop it there because there is no chance of recovering anything of value. alternatively, check the traffic lawyer thread and get some help.....but even when you are in the right, everyone looses once lawyers are involved....they are damn expensive

I used the supplied "race" pads for Targa Tasmania, and sprint and enduro circuit racing with no issues. They are pretty adequate brakes so they don't get overheated like a smaller package would I'd suggest giving those pads a try first, if you find you need to change them there are a heap of options in that shape. For really hard use I've had excellent results from Hawk dtc-60, and the project mu club racer gets good reviews for longer runs.

Good luck this weekend Chris!

Hi mate, can you please provide more details....where are you going, what exactly are you trying to do, and what is the result?

hmmm that is a nasty boost drop off. Do you have a manual or electronic boost controller? If so how is it hooked up? If not....maybe there is a blockage in the exhaust like a collapsed cat. Boost should stay at the set level, especially with the stock setup

Any auto transmission fluid is fine, you shouldn't need much at all

In

Interesting idea. I'd want to know how well paint can paint lasts with the heat/cold/twisting a tyre has?

Good post Richard, good to hear someone has actually got an outcome. How long did it take and how much did it cost that you did not get back?

There is a switch on the console that locks the 4wd on which can feel exactly like that at low speed, when it is turned on there is also a light on the dash. Power steering fluid is a possible problem because very low fluid would cause additional load. It should definately be topped up. Stay on the lookout for a leak though, powersteering fluid should never disappear.

Excellent service and outcome....what was the name of the shop?

zookeeper? beekeeper? on the bright side, if you can't return the CAS, there is always ebay

OK, that was hard. but it seems I can now share it. 9 If you want a copy pm me your email address.

good to hear you are ready to run.....and those cars are damn cheap considering that is ready to race

I can't confirm tyres affecting the steering wheel position (doesn't make sense to me), but I have certainly had old tyres/ out of round which made the car pull to one side even though the alignment was perfect

so....I actually have one of these, and I need to remove it (because I converted from standard intake to a pod). I'd be happy to pass it on if someone wants something to copy from

nothing will ever be more memorable than the twin turbo landcruiser...back when superlap was keeping it real

good outcome

Interestingly....same question, but nearer sydney inner west.

Hi mate, firstly, welcome A leak from the attessa line is very common, looks like you've got one. FIrstly, you will need some auto trans fluid to refill the resoviour once you are done. And a small spanner 10mm I think and some clear tubing will help you bleed it. Leave the cap on the resoviour in the boot (minimises the fluid you will loose). Put the car up solidly on stands. Oil tray down and rags at the ready. Take a spanner (preferably flare nut) to that attessa line. Either 17 or 19mm, can't remember. Undo it carefully (you really don't want to strip that nut) and pull it off. Pour fluid everywhere except the oil tray. Give the thread on the fitting a quick clean, and make sure the flare fitting is smooth without gouges or bends. Also do the best clean you can on the gearbox/xfer case end. A tiny bit of grease on the thread, and put the fitting back on nice and smooth. Pull it down reasonably tight but nothing silly. Clean all the bloody mess down with degreaser. Cap off the resoviour in the boot, refill it to max. Make sure the car is out of gear and start it up. Open the bleed nipple at the rear of the transfer case until the fluid flows smoothly without bubbles. If you are unlucky it won't come through, if so there is another breather in the attessa line in a really nasty spot above the driveshafts somewhere. Once it is bled properly, turn the car off, take it off stands, refil the resoviour if necessary, and resume hooning.