Duncan

nasty. obviously either master cylinder or ABS module - master cylinder would be cheaper to replace with a new one (or rebuild).

it won't necessarily be a problem. The ATTKD calipers are narrower front to rear than the factory ones by a few mm so it may not hit. I'd recommend taking the old caliper and disc off (leave the brake line attached), and dummy fit the new ones with wheel over. You may be pleasantly surprised

yeah that is outrageously big. and I saw the incar from owen...shows the time he had to react.....SFA

nasty....I counted about 12 seconds to get out of the car after it stopped moving, so make it 15 all up. he forgot to take the window net out first time, and forgot to unplug intercom too. no criticism, just a reminder how hard simple things can be when you are in major shock. there aren't many worse crashes than that, thank god he wasn't knocked out.

not necessarily nick....toe drags the whole tyre across the road. just get a wheel alignment you'll know soon enough

To me it makes sense in a couple of ways: 1/ the standard brakes aren't great, I could get them to fade if I was out for a hoon. Not deadly dangerous, just not quite up to scratch 2/ stagea replacement brakes are hard to find and expensive. Over time something like a brand new ksport setup with easily and cheaply replaced discs and pads makes good sense. plus you get new braided lines thrown in for free

/ignores andrew.

Hi Ray, are you going to join the SAU team for the Wakefield 6 hour regularity? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/353722-eoi-for-wakefeild-6-hours

Looks like Mark is trying to temp us away from POVs to Radcam.... ------------------------------- A RadCam for only $399! Trade In Your Working POV 1 or 1.5 and Get $200 cash-back on a RadCam HDPro* ------------------------------ So Mark.....the POV has treated me well over the years....is the radcam going to be as simple and reliable?

yes, but if you just take out the cams you can confirm it is pistons touching valves which is the most likely. Just undo the cam bolts slowly, start at the middle and undo a turn or 2 at a time on each bolt. also, are the spark plugs in? if so when you try and turn the balancer it is producing compression which can make it harder than you expect to turn the motor. But either way I would not turn it far before putting the timing belt on. You mentioned #1 is at TDC which is correct. The pin in the cams should point at the marking on the backing plate, or about 280o on lnlet and 70o on exhaust.

I think that would be fine as long as you have a bleeder hose attached with fluid in it (ie if it does draw back it will only pull whatever just came out). But still, it doesn't make a lot of sense, it would always be faster and more reliable to close the bleeder in between. There is definately no 1 way valve(s)

do you have cams in the motor? is the timing belt on? when you say you made sure valves are not touching pistons, how did you do that?

BTW....run the numbers if you like....but detonation failures are far more common in #6, especially in rb26s. Ring lands and/or big end bearings Plenty of theories about plenum air distribution and heat at the rear of the motor, but who knows for sure.

lol I go there so often it's in my favourites. actually I owe it at least 1 more post and probably 2 since I last posted. haha Pete was just annoyed that I got to break his car. payback for when I lent him mine the year before. Actually thinking back I've had 2 other people driving when motors let go in my race car.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/46581-report-that-engine-failure/page__hl__report+engine+failure

I'm willing to bet it's because they look good. almost no-one will get brakes hot enough to crack rotors on the street.

good to hear you are OK Nick +1. toe is more likely to cause excessive wear than camber.

semi slicks will not be a problem - the better your tyres, the less you need to punish the brakes

my leak is fron the front drain of the sunroof, leaks to the front passenger floor....but only if I park nose downhill

You know....I haven't seen what your plans are? What do you want the car for? Track days? sprints? racing one day? rallies? If you never intend to race or rally seriously....buy anything. If you are ever going to have to build to rules think really carefully before you start, lots of people make expensive mistakes by not thinking ahead. On the other hand I made an expensive choice by thinking too far ahead

Yeah they are bolt on, I have bought 3 sets for different cars (GTR, 350z and Stagea) and they have all been bolt on. They will be here: http://www.justjap.com/store/home.php?cat=285

You should consider the D2/G4/Ksport etc 8 piston kits instead - they are around $2k and come with larger discs (330 or 354), 8 piston calipers, new pads and new brake lines. Excellent performance for the price. P Mu pads are just expensive or what they are. If you just want pads with more bite contact GSLRallysport on here and see which pads they suggest.

what sort of use will the car have? In my experience lots of places make big sumps....but not many have acutally competed sucessfully with them in trying conditions. I reckon most of them are not much better than standard.

+1 sounds wrong to me.

you won't need a working washer bottle for the track day, in fact you probably don't need a working wiper (they are unlikely to check, and properly applied rainex on a clean windscreen works fine) it looks like most of the large auto stores are open over the weekend, give them a try for the stud. I am not sure for GTST, but GTR shares stud size with something local so most places stock them