Duncan

I have the porsche calipers on mine, but the pistons are equal sized (ie no leading and trailing). In my case I unscrewed and swapped the bleeder nipples with the bridge so that it was right way up. All good including plenty of race use. I have also seen people with porsche calipers with unequal sized pistons. That is a bit dodgy because the small piston comes first not the large one, nothing you can do about it. I would steer clear of that setup

Before buying the car, search for other's experience with that dealer on SAU. You would be much better off buying privately from someone on here.

Excellent posts Kenny, lots of good exerience has gone into those

haha low octane fuel doesn't cause oil problems

lol. not just a stagea option, our 350z used to have it too. 6 reasonable hits in 5 years, all not at fault. highlights included an l plater driving into the passenger door, and a truck running into it and pushing it off parramatta rd onto the footpath

+1. lots of annoying ie9 stuff not working. no doubt microsoft's fault but still a PITA

wierd....i just run straight 98 from the pump....can't get it to ping at 12 psi

EC is pretty boring and simple as tracks go. The big trick is judging turn 1 correctly and getting through there as quick as you can as it leads to another straight. Turns 2 and 9 require patience, they are long, constant radius. Very late apex. As for the car...keep weight off the front right tyre if you can, it gets smashed in turn 1 and 2

good to see webber fighting his way from 1st up to 4th

hahah it drives exactly like an early 80s designed 1litre car would. crap. until boost and boost arrives then it's just crazy 80s style torque steer and classic fun we do need to update the suspension a little, it had trouble with bottoming out the shocks on the track day we took it too.

yeah it will run fine off the battery. certainly long enough to prove if either the water pump or alternator is seizing up. BTW I think it is more likely to be the starter motor not disenging....but the belts are easier to check

I'd just pull each belt off, one at a time. Just don't run too long without the fan/waterpump/alternator one.

definately not a bearing. Not an engine at least It might be starter motor disenging, or maybe a pulley bearing seizing on the AC/PS/Alternator?

wrong March. Maybe August? I need the stag back first

wish I had a good quality timing light.

nissan installed something like that from the factory....the reo bar behind the bumper.

no you cannot. Or at least, it would take 2-3 times as long and require a huge amount of stuff to be removed to do it "in the engine bay". To OP....it's probably not worth bothering doing the sorts of changes people are talking about in this thread, unless you are pulling the motor out. And if you are, you may as well do new bearings ($300) + forged pistons and rings ($1000) as well. I would suggest just run it, and be prepared to rebuild if it fails. Even better, buy a second long motor and start building it properly, and sling it in if/when the other one fails. A second hand rb26 long motor shold be about 1500-2000.

I guess it depends exactly which parts you are after, but there are lots of aftermarket bush makers in Oz...no doubt you could find someone to ship to the states too.

Just to check....are you certain it is the bushes that failed? Because 99/100 it is the welds actually snapping in the pedal mount....

Yes that sounds exactly like the symptoms of the (common) worn synchros. No you are unlikely to have any better luck with another 2nd hand box because they all have 22 years of being abused just like yours I recently had a second hand 32 box rebuilt, it cost about $2000. That cover upgrade to 33 series 3 parts (you cannot get 32 parts any more) including all new synchros. All new bearings. Strip, clean, measure and reassemble. From the guys at Award Gearboxes in Seven Hills, they have done heaps of GTR boxes.

Hey Owen just one thing to watch out. The 5 digit number of the diagram is not the part number, it is only a part code. You need to double click it to add it to the main list. Then when you return to the main list, hit the "lookup parts" icon (or F9 from memory), and it will return the correct complete part number based on the VIN you enter.

Hi mate, any reasonable quality radiator should have mounts for the factory shroud - it just requires a small welded fitting in 3-4 spots. If not, you may be able to hold the factory shroud in place with cable ties. Small ties will fit through the gaps in the fins if necessary

haha +1 to the hack! That brings him back to -3

+1, good call

I call "light track use" track days, supersprints, hillclimbs. 3-10 laps at a time so the heat is not a huge problem (ie they cool down between sessions) heavy track use would be essentially continuous work - 20min - 12 hours at a time. Brakes won't cool down, they stay hot and have to perform at that level. I was very impressed with the Hawk HT60 for heavy track use. I currently have the SBS carbon and they are good but not as good as the hawks. but once you get to the race only pads most of them are pretty good. If you don't need the compromises of street use I think it makes life a bit easier