Duncan

I'd just pull each belt off, one at a time. Just don't run too long without the fan/waterpump/alternator one.

definately not a bearing. Not an engine at least It might be starter motor disenging, or maybe a pulley bearing seizing on the AC/PS/Alternator?

wrong March. Maybe August? I need the stag back first

wish I had a good quality timing light.

nissan installed something like that from the factory....the reo bar behind the bumper.

no you cannot. Or at least, it would take 2-3 times as long and require a huge amount of stuff to be removed to do it "in the engine bay". To OP....it's probably not worth bothering doing the sorts of changes people are talking about in this thread, unless you are pulling the motor out. And if you are, you may as well do new bearings ($300) + forged pistons and rings ($1000) as well. I would suggest just run it, and be prepared to rebuild if it fails. Even better, buy a second long motor and start building it properly, and sling it in if/when the other one fails. A second hand rb26 long motor shold be about 1500-2000.

I guess it depends exactly which parts you are after, but there are lots of aftermarket bush makers in Oz...no doubt you could find someone to ship to the states too.

Just to check....are you certain it is the bushes that failed? Because 99/100 it is the welds actually snapping in the pedal mount....

Yes that sounds exactly like the symptoms of the (common) worn synchros. No you are unlikely to have any better luck with another 2nd hand box because they all have 22 years of being abused just like yours I recently had a second hand 32 box rebuilt, it cost about $2000. That cover upgrade to 33 series 3 parts (you cannot get 32 parts any more) including all new synchros. All new bearings. Strip, clean, measure and reassemble. From the guys at Award Gearboxes in Seven Hills, they have done heaps of GTR boxes.

Hey Owen just one thing to watch out. The 5 digit number of the diagram is not the part number, it is only a part code. You need to double click it to add it to the main list. Then when you return to the main list, hit the "lookup parts" icon (or F9 from memory), and it will return the correct complete part number based on the VIN you enter.

Hi mate, any reasonable quality radiator should have mounts for the factory shroud - it just requires a small welded fitting in 3-4 spots. If not, you may be able to hold the factory shroud in place with cable ties. Small ties will fit through the gaps in the fins if necessary

haha +1 to the hack! That brings him back to -3

+1, good call

I call "light track use" track days, supersprints, hillclimbs. 3-10 laps at a time so the heat is not a huge problem (ie they cool down between sessions) heavy track use would be essentially continuous work - 20min - 12 hours at a time. Brakes won't cool down, they stay hot and have to perform at that level. I was very impressed with the Hawk HT60 for heavy track use. I currently have the SBS carbon and they are good but not as good as the hawks. but once you get to the race only pads most of them are pretty good. If you don't need the compromises of street use I think it makes life a bit easier

hmmm....seems Kel prefers it dirty. lots of trophies up in the pool room now days....none of them mine lately...

you're more patient than me then. Since using dry ice I've not considered going back. Much cleaner result too (less secondary cleaning)

Yeah PFC for me. The only feature I am missing is a data logging dash, and the ability to switch maps on a switch for different fuel . If I wanted that I would go haltec + dash for sure. Lets face it they all effectively control timing and fuel, and all have some sort of safety features/correction tables in a 3rd dimension to deal with unexpected heat, bad fuel etc.

lol. australia's toughest tradie!

car looks great mate....good luck!

did you have a look at this thread among others? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/49484-tow-bars-for-stageas/page__view__findpost__p__5472339__hl__tow__fromsearch__1 also, 1500kg car + 700kg trailer..and don't forget 300kg or so of gear. basically....in Australia towbar ratings are set by the manufacturer/importer. Stageas don't have that. Aftermarket tow bars have their rating estimated by the towbar manufacturer and checked by an engineer. In my case the builder rated it to 2t but I never bothered getting it engineered (not the only un-engineered mod on the car). I think it is unlikely you will find any stagea bar with a rating more than 2t. Even then you need much stronger springs at the back. If you want to do it legally, you need something like navara which is seperate chassis and rated to 3t. Other than utes, not much is rated that high.

Mine is a little rough when cold but smooth once warm. 100,000klm. No idea if it is normal, terrible, or about to die

lol I have too but it works when you get it right

hahah it is always the navigator's side

yeah I don't understand why the gtr launches harder than other 4wds...but it sure does it has happened over and over in the last 5 years for me

was the race car actually finshed and ready? this has to be the first build thread I can think of with a beginning and an end that quick