Duncan

BTW are you downgrading back to R33 N1 turbos?

The Nav's are the best to answer that....but I'm willing to bet a good GPS should replace the olde fashioned tripe computers....

I've always held the flywheel with a single bellhousing bolt and a long prybar to hold it.

Hey Joel....don't forget your membership

The DBA catalogue is a little unclear. Base model GTRs (R32, all dates) had 296x 32mm discs. They run a grey/green rotor with either nissan or sumitomo brand (can't remember) Vspec GTRs (R32) had the same brembos as R33 and R34, 324 x 32mm. The caliper is black and has Brembo on it So, unless you have the brembo brakes, you need the smaller discs. They are still a pretty capable setup compared to most facotry cars. For interest, R33 GTSt had 296x30mm discs, so in practice the base model r32 gtr and the 33 gtst brakes are interchangeable

That sucks Mark....hoping you can make it to at least 1 event you enter this year Aggrodave will have confirm who will take over the entry...the reserves list in post 2 is blank so maybe it's a chance for someone very late?

Actually...no! But Barry did pass on his details so thanks for helping out! I need to chase him again actually. Sounds like the Tassie field will be down a few after the number of crashes last round. How's the weather looking for the weekend?

/facepalm sorry...for some reason I had thought it was a turbo 6 not an 8! Yeah we have some IPRA commonwhores up here running nascar motors too. Considering the rules allow any v8 block form the same maker, free cam, free heads, free exhaust....it goes to show how crappy those cars and motors are that they are not walking away with it all the time.

yeah...and it is damn quick for a heavy, restricted IPRA car too. It killed by GTR at that Phillip Island v8 round we did.

Tas rally is on this weekend....where are the dirties from Tassie?

The EC private practice days can be overcrowded, maybe not the best way to do your first track day. Since SAU doesn't have a beginner's day again until December, I'd suggest contacting John Boston and going along to one of his professional days. You will get taken through the basics with some more structure and will learn heaps.

yeah in fact CAMS confirmed that for me the other day. Your log book category does not stop you entering any event as anything (although the scruitineers on the day may not know that...) You can basically enter any event as anything, regardless of what the log book says, as long as you meet the rules for the class you enter. CAMS can also change the category in the log book with another scruitineering inspection.

the attessa reservoir is inside the driver's side rear from factory. Or is it aftermarket. Either way...need pics!

Yeah wearing it down is the only way to "fix" it....it will get better with time if you just keep driving on it. But depending how bad it is, it might be best to just chuck it. At only 300klm old I'd be happy just to change the flatspotted one and leave the other side.

Sorry but that is not right. In fact water is one of the best coolants you can run for ability to absorb energy/heat without boiling. Totally agree with all those....simple things and any of them could cause a problem. I had a problem with overheating for months and tried literally everything except the obvious....a pressure test would have showed that it had a leak and was loosing water, then overheating. Took 8-10 minutes at full noise to go from dead cold to boiling hot.

Ahh that sucks. Neck and Back OK? My guess is that if the rear boot floor is not damaged, it will probably be worth them repairing. Just be careful AAMI will push you very hard to use their repairers.... You should still come out on Sunday....at least you can watch everyone else having fun

I've moved the thread to the suspension section. You are saying the car is not even side to side, right? If so...I know you've said you've been to your mechanic and a Bob Jane...but I think you should try something else. The geometery is based on simple measurements - if you can see it is out by eye, a decent suspension shop will be able to identify what is bent

Well...if you aren't familiar with what to look for, it is best to get someone else to check it out. If you don't have a trusted import workshop, I'd recommend taking it to Brad from Pro-fabrication for a once over - he builds a lot of race cars and knows what to look for Sadly track cars are not often in the best condition when they are sold because the maintenance stops long before the sale happens

32 vspec was 17x8 - so 19x10 max not 10.5. The +2" wheel width is one of the worst things about the current rules....everyone has to spend more on tyres because everyone does, and the crashes are harder.

Hi Mark, this event is full and so is the reserve list....but we have another one coming up in a few months. entries are open for SAU:NSW club members already, if you want to join the club the details are here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/365434-s-a-u-n-s-w-club-membership-faq/ Either way, come along on sunday and enjoy from the sidelines

That would be great, thanks Kenny. We have plenty of spots still available!

Yeah I normally live in Ryde (Gladesville) and have a C34....but I am building a house so I'm living elsewhere for about 12 months. I have seen FOSSIL around, wondered who that was

Thanks Albert...we'll be in touch

Yeah I'm putting 2 USB and 1 cig socket back in mine at the moment. I've used a surface mount twin socket and just put a 2x USB adapter in one of them. All mounted in a box at the centre console that was there to hold intercom electrics. Use including Radcam camera, phone charge, tomtom charge and anything else that comes up.

Hi mate, is there any power at all in the car? If you turn the ignition on and press the horn do you hear anything? Do you own a multimeter? If so check the voltage between the battery terminals, it will need to be at least 11v to start the car. Most likely just a flat battery, so the other option is to put it on a battery charger for 12 hours and see if it starts