Duncan

I call "light track use" track days, supersprints, hillclimbs. 3-10 laps at a time so the heat is not a huge problem (ie they cool down between sessions) heavy track use would be essentially continuous work - 20min - 12 hours at a time. Brakes won't cool down, they stay hot and have to perform at that level. I was very impressed with the Hawk HT60 for heavy track use. I currently have the SBS carbon and they are good but not as good as the hawks. but once you get to the race only pads most of them are pretty good. If you don't need the compromises of street use I think it makes life a bit easier

hmmm....seems Kel prefers it dirty. lots of trophies up in the pool room now days....none of them mine lately...

you're more patient than me then. Since using dry ice I've not considered going back. Much cleaner result too (less secondary cleaning)

Yeah PFC for me. The only feature I am missing is a data logging dash, and the ability to switch maps on a switch for different fuel . If I wanted that I would go haltec + dash for sure. Lets face it they all effectively control timing and fuel, and all have some sort of safety features/correction tables in a 3rd dimension to deal with unexpected heat, bad fuel etc.

lol. australia's toughest tradie!

car looks great mate....good luck!

did you have a look at this thread among others? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/49484-tow-bars-for-stageas/page__view__findpost__p__5472339__hl__tow__fromsearch__1 also, 1500kg car + 700kg trailer..and don't forget 300kg or so of gear. basically....in Australia towbar ratings are set by the manufacturer/importer. Stageas don't have that. Aftermarket tow bars have their rating estimated by the towbar manufacturer and checked by an engineer. In my case the builder rated it to 2t but I never bothered getting it engineered (not the only un-engineered mod on the car). I think it is unlikely you will find any stagea bar with a rating more than 2t. Even then you need much stronger springs at the back. If you want to do it legally, you need something like navara which is seperate chassis and rated to 3t. Other than utes, not much is rated that high.

Mine is a little rough when cold but smooth once warm. 100,000klm. No idea if it is normal, terrible, or about to die

lol I have too but it works when you get it right

hahah it is always the navigator's side

yeah I don't understand why the gtr launches harder than other 4wds...but it sure does it has happened over and over in the last 5 years for me

was the race car actually finshed and ready? this has to be the first build thread I can think of with a beginning and an end that quick

ahh yes....you didn't miss that one. good answer though...and good on the boys for giving you a hand

hmmm multiquote does not work in ie9 or google chrome. lucky i have firefox too. nope...that might be a starting point but surface and tyres and temp of tyres and surface make a big difference. I don't know any science...I just try different revs and see what I get. Importantly...the perfect launch has a little wheelspin for 1-2 sec then hooks up. too much wheelspin feels fun but is not as fast. bogging down is worst and wastes the 4wd advantage. I shared my secret tip its been working for years with very quick launches and no breakages. Just to clarify, that is exactly what I am doing. Yes it can and will burn the clutch with too much clutch out or too long. You will feel it pull forward on the handbrake a little but the car not moving...that is the correct feel. With race starts, red light goes on for 3-5sec. So I hold the revs at the right number, handbrake on. When the red light comes on, I let the clutch out until I feel it start to bite (car moves load onto handbrake). So the car will spend 1-3 seconds on the clutch and handbrake at 6000ish. Nasty. But very effective. eg...last race start. 8th to 2nd in 2 corners against commonwhores, wrxs, emos. With hillclimbs, drags etc (anything where the timer starts when you move), the method is much simpler because you decide how long you are on the handbrake. Keep it to .5 sec you will be fine every time.

BTW, it was the person who last put that tyre on who f**ked it ("cross threaded"), not you. If you know who it was, get them to fix it. I agree 4 wheel nuts is not ideal but not unsafe if the other 4 are good and you take it easy.

but...before you buy new rotors....you also have the option of having them machined flat again, generally about $50. The only problem would be if they end up under minimum thickness after machining. Also, there I don't know anyone other than drifters who has had to replace handbrake shoes...they really don't do anything except hold the car when stationary so they don't wear

Whereabouts are you? I know a workshop in sydney that has done an automatic GTR for the same reason.

who needs c spanners when you have a hammer and screwdriver??

the revs you need depend on power curve, tyres and the surface. In my race car it is somewhere between 5 and 6000.

starter motor not required....matt can just clutch start it everywhere.

semi slicks are certainly legal...but they are not a simple choice they wear out 5-10x quicker than a normal tyre they are very noisey they tramline (follow the road surface) like crazy they are harsh they are bad to terrible in the wet (depends on brand and amount of tread) they have noticeably less grip when cold. they are expensive on the + side, they are excellent fun once warm

It's the total area that the master cylinder has to move that might make a longer pedal. Single piston calipers tend to have very large pistons. Best way to tell if the master cylinder is not OK is to measure the standard and new pistons and see how much larger the new ones are. Often the difference is minimal because it is the calipers that are larger not the pistons inside them. And basically, bleeding after replacing everything can be a real PITA. Sometimes it is OK straight away, sometimes it will need a few shots. A properly bled braking system should have a short pedal travel to get the pads to the disc, and then be consistent pressure all the way to the bottom. You should get the same feel on every push. If it gets better after a pump or 2 you probably still have air in the system. If you get to the bottom and it sinks slowly you have a leak somewhere. If it is consistently long you have bled it OK and may need a larger master cylinder

I'm into the hundreds of launches in my race car. the most important thing is not to shock it by dropping the clutch cold. just before launching put the handbrake on and let the clutch out a little to put the drivetrain under load. when the light goes out, drop the handbrake, drop the clutch, floor the throttle and watch it go.

but....brake fluid should not go anywhere. so hopefully your pads are very low. if not you might have a brake fluid leak. check carefully for leaks at the master cylinder and at each caliper if the pads are not low

i bolted a 32 gtr box on my stagea btw the only issue for push vs pull is the clutch. either setup will bolt onto the motor as long as the clutch matches the box type