Duncan

I would have thought so...otherwise how will it seal - bolt head on sump? copper washer, o-ring, fibre washer, something is needed!

I am pretty sure that is the main ignition power, ie everything is attached to it. Does it run from the extra clip in the battery via fusable link into the main loom?

The restrictor from factory (and aftermarket ones) is about 3mm deep. Generally people just push any new restrictor on top of an old one, so you need to drill 3 to 6mm. But you should drill it out of the block and then push it in later, you don't need crap in the oil galleries.

to Just Jap for helping out so quickly....

That's the ones, thanks Chuckie.

craved on here is.

nope, not the fuseable link, it is just a big fuse. the light on the dash provides a little resistance and makes the alternator charge. this causes an issue if the globe is out, but I guess it isn't otherwise you would have mentioned. how low does the multimeter show the voltage goes?

I guess I am missing the point as usual The PFC HC shows about 1v higher than the turbo timer? Have you put a multimeter across the battery terminals to confirm which one is right? If it is just the turbo timer reading lower it is probably just a wiring problem (power or earth) to the turbo timer

It is normal to start charging high and drop volts to about 13.4 by the time it is warm. what are you seeing?

the only thing I'd trade the GTR for is a GTR

yeah I did a motor in practice, and it's going to be sitting around for a while because my racing budget needs to go onto the house the prod cars are getting damn quick....one of the guys was in the low 1.05s

indeed it does not, it only runs on 32 bit or 16 bit. i had to install a virtual pc with win32. and yes, n1 parts have 24U instead of 05U or similar. it may vary for specific parts, the model code depends on which model first used that part

I wouldn't bother with the nismo bushes - they are rubber and expensive. either new nissan ones, or I would suggest urethane everywhere.

about $500 to reco a head (ie strip, clean, measure, new guides, shim clearances correctly). more if you need valve seats or close the cam tunnels.

yeah I did the same - bought 2 new ones from the part numbers posted on here.

excellent.... i just need you to hit 88 miles per hour and head back to October 2010

haha don't worry same or worse for me.the guys with budget just buy a set of dunlop dz03 wets and go 10-15sec quicker than me.

ahh looks from natsoft like the weather was rubbish for you last weekend too? has is racing in the rain with no roof?having fun still?

fingers crossed.....3 wet races in a row would be outrageously bad luck.Stu Inwood (taxi in sports sedans) and Karl Eedans (GTR in production cars) are running this weekend...so that is 3x SAU-ers out there

see you at Wakie this weekend Stu, we are running production cars....and hoping for dry too...

it was probably just his automatic choke cutting in

It's funny. Read through this thread, the people who put shit on these brakes have not used them. Everyone who has used them says they are good, including some really harsh use like rallies and racing. Pretty simple odds. I always run the supplied pads in mine, I got the kit from Just Jap and they had a choice of street, sport or race pads. I run the race pads on the race car, and sport in rallies or on the street. No problems at all and I still haven't had to replace rotors (I have replaced pads a few times).

check the winch loadings again, the rated weight is normally dead weight not rolling. I have used those crappy supercheap ones for years, even damaged cars they pull them up fine. the really small ones are just slow and might need a break on a long job.

oi! not this week he doesn't!

no problems at all, Mark is an exec