Marlin

Up to you Ben, whichever way you choose is cool. Fyi, I always recce and make some changes to Vandenbergs notes, sometimes more info, sometimes less, sometimes just change them to read a little smoother. I've always found them really good to be honest. YT/Catchy/Millar and I usually compare notes on Targa eve to see if our changes are similar, just to confirm there's no mistakes. You're welcome to get in on that action if you like I can send you a sample of their notes if you PM me your email.

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Anyone keen on doing a team for Targa? Add yourself to the list. We can organise the paperwork at the Silverdome after scroot I believe? Correct me if I'm wrong....... TT Car # Team Vehicle type 895 Manion/Manion 33GTR 979 Grant/Wooster 34GTR

I reckon I can get you a discount set from Vandenbergs mate if you like?

Hahaha, Rossarden sounds awesome!!!! Do we get a lunch stop there

Wonderful news....... Helper form submitted.

Where are you getting that info from?????????

I for one never claimed streeters were better in the wet. I don't think they are. R spec (and I haven't tried ALL brands) in my experience are much better once up to temp, assuming you can actually get them up. On the flip-side of that, in my experience with a Kuhmo V70A will out-perform ANY tyre in the wet from cold, but you then run the risk running these in the dry and overheating them. I said previously; a. R spec tyres are commonly less forgiving at the limit of adhesion. b. R spec tyres can be very inconsistent in their grip levels on changable surfaces. c. R spec tyres can be very difficult to get up to temperature quickly in rain or very cold conditions (sometimes impossible to heat). d. This attribute above gives R spec tyres little "feel" when cold. Road legal tyres on the other hand are typically average performers at everything, but they're typically consistent at least, and that's something that's easy for Average Joe to become accustomed to. Now, re-reading that, I don't disagree with everything you're saying, but I don't necessarily agree with everything either. The point I was really trying to make was that street tyres will typically be poorer all round performers in all conditions, but at least they are consistently poor, which may go some way toward slowing the field and helping inexperienced/occasional punters who aren't accustomed to R typre tyres. And mayyyyybe, thats a way to decrease accidents. Edit: And yes, I've competed many times on street tyres in the wet, but only circuit sprints. And in that enviroment, give me R spec tyres any day. Surely a lot of this discussion depends on exactly what brand/size tyre you're using, and of course every brand's differing tread block pattern/depth/width/pumping ability. Only have to look at an O2G beside a V70A to see which will fare better in wet conditions

Sanity would preclude mentioning ANY Nissan GTR in the same breath as McLaren F1.

Seen one of these before?

There's also a 10mm nut on the inside rear. Hard to believe but true. The stud for the nut is bonded to the glass. I removed mine when we painted the car with the tried and proven piano wire method. Careful not to damage it at all, as the seals don't come away from the glass - one piece.

Porsche doesn't offer a "semi-auto" box that you seem so certain of. Porsche offer a traditional 6 speed manual, and an AUTOMATIC gearbox in the 997 Turbo, as in, a slush box. It has "tiptronic" operation, but in no way is it even remotely similar to GTR's DSG gearbox, or for that matter Ferrari and other's paddle shift manuals. The Porsche Turbo "tiptronic" is quicker accelerating from standstill than the manual yes, mainly due to the ability to load up the torque convertor, spooling the variable geaometry turbos whilst at standstill. GTR's performance can partly be put down to the exceptionally quick shifts of DSG style boxes (it's actually pre-selected the next gear, and is just waiting for the shift paddle to be pulled to change). This would go someway toward achieving those times, but I'm still sceptical that they can be repeated in the real world.

Thats the "tour". Non competetive, following a group leader, not exceeding 100 klm/h I think? You also don't do all the stages because you wouldn't have the time to complete them all at the slower pace. BUT, you can use all the road. Give you a good taste for the full competition I'd say

Willo's got one I think?

I agree with ya..... so stop bickering with me!!!!!! jk jk

Beeeeyewty! Looks great Day 4..........

Stu, they'll be perfect for your 7 no doubt. But I maintain they've been left behind in dry performance. We ran them on the 34 in 2006, and I don't think they would have got through if we weren't on badly cracked fron rotors from Cethana onwards, therefore cruising. Roseberry's surface just tore them to bits, in fact we were really worried they'd knock us at the lunch break tyre inspection! After 2007's poor performance on 02G's, I was starting to think that maybe the Kuhmo's weren't too bad in the dry (if you could look after them), but after just doing Mt Buller and being able to run Kuhmo's and the new O3G's on TWO back to back runs, I'm sold on the Dunlops. 16klm stage, 16 second advantage exactly to Dunlops, twice. (Not limited in tyre qty at Buller fortunately) The only question for me is wet weather, but seeing how badly smashed we were in the wet at Targa this year, anythings an improvement I say. If my crystal ball told me that 5 days of Targa was going to be wet, I still reckon I'd run the Kuhmo's though .... maybe

Downright scary on 02G Dunlops Ben. Ecsta's the previous year however were awesome. Horses for courses I say. But as those involved know, one set must be chosen one day before you even run Prologue (qualifying). And Stu, Kuhmo's are the last think you'd want to be stuck with in the dry now (** on a heavy car), much much slower that 03G's. But yeah, awesome wet tyre.

Hmmm, I was thinking they'd take a huge toll on the alloy rotor carrier we're running? I didn't touch the handbrake at all for this reason, with the exception of one occasion when it just cocked and locked the inside rear, ran it wide, turned into a total f**k up. Or is this not an issue?

That looks and sounds really cool! Although, looking at the times Luffy screwed out of the R8 at PCOTY at Winton in the latest Motor mag, I wanna run the 34 again........ and hope Santa brings a hydraulic handbrake

Just a tough single plate will do the job without fuss (std flywheel must remain). If you're anything like us there'll be plenty of clutch stabbing out of slower corners to get the big girl moving

The way I read the rules, if you enter the car as an N1, it must have all genuine N1 parts, oil cooler etc.... Reading Duncan's list through is one reason Jason and I chose to build a 34 (The blue one). We originally did all the costings and figured to get a 32 up to a reliable spec and rebuild everything, the cost of a 34 with low klms was virtually the same. Nonetheless, welcome aboard Paul There's plenty of GTR gurus on this forum mate, lots of guys with real-world racing experience, and most are more than willing to help. Build the car strong so it gets through the six days of flogging, and you'll be hooked for life, I warn you now

http://www.cams.com.au/downloads/articles/...ions%202006.pdf And here's the full regs for you. Modern regs start on page 27. We didn't put restictors in ours.... couldn't find a ruling, and found we didn't need them anyways.

I reckon we'll be back for the Vic round. It's a few weeks after Targa so we should be able to make it. I dunno whether we'll be in the 34 again, or running Deano's R8. For some reason he seems a little concerned with me barrel rolling it down the back fence at Sandown.... Jeff Beable Porsche style. Hours was spent on photoshop for this proposal for prospective future sponsors. Very similar to the effort by the Donut King R35 GTR effort you'd agree?