Bobjones

That is good to a point...the fact is that it depends on clearances age of engine etc etc etc. you cannot compare a Nissan RB25 to a Mercedes...even the base crap cause the materials uses are different. Different oils should be used for different situations. I woul dput Mobil 1 in a Honda, but never a turbo car out of Japan. With the Mobil 1 then it was used after the car had done 30,000, I changed to Motul at about 50,000 and when the engine was stripped, it was NOT clean...and shit loads of blow by (some of which i have said is due to the crap running in by the original owner). I have seen engines using Castrol crap oil that have come out cleaner and with less blow by... So there is no way you can tell me that the Mobil 1 in 20,000 "cleaned" the carbon deposits on an engine that had done 30,000. the fact is that it always came out balck and crap and the Motul never did, the car ran better, held oil pressure better etc etc... I will stick to the 10w-40 Motul Semi that was recommended to me...not cause my cousins, uncles aunts left nut said so, but because this is from people that BUILD engines. Each to there own...

Damn straight...and its a nice car to drive too :wassup: Sorry I missed it guys...I was at Double Island and the car is far from run in yet...

Obviously you MIS-read my post... what sort of idiot would use synthetic to run in a motor... well alot of workshops in Japan change the oil to full synthetic BEFORE the engine has time to run in...thus the problem I am talking about... Assuming that a car that you don't know the history of to always use Mobil 1 is a bit presumptuous don't you think... And I will be quick to call it rubbish...the fact is that the STANDARD rings and alot of aftermarket rings work better with semi synthetic. Also Clevite recommend a semi-synthetic for their bearings... I have NEVER had a good experience with Mobil 1, and have built more engines than I can poke a stick at...the only time I will run a full synthetic is in a n/a multivalve engine... Using Mobil 1 previously it was black as hell after 3,000, using the Motul it still looks like oil not sludge after 5,000...since its easy to get and have contacts at Coventry Auto...I can't see the problem

Ok, I recently (as of Friday) got my car back after a rebuild that was caused by the oil rings collapsing. The engine builder has put it down to full synthetic oil being too thin, and this would be the Mobil 1 that has been run in it since I got it... Mobil 1 is not the ONLY contributing factor, the fact is that the original owner (as is the case with many Japanese) put FULL synthetic in the car whilst running it in, as apposed to the Nissan Semi from factory. This is evident in the fact that the rings have NEVER bedded in properly, resulting in very evident original honing marks once the block was stripped. This problem is NOT rare and it has been recommended to me by MANY well known engine builders to use a Semi-synthetic as apposed to a FULL synthetic, especially in my case with Chrome-Moly rings. Thus I would HIGHLY recommend the Motul 4100 turbolight, I have only seen proof in one RB engine that this is good oil and that is an RB20. Being similar to an RB25, I will be running this oil again (the last 2 changes before the engien build were done using this oil as a slight knock had started to develop from the rings collapsing causing slight piston slap and uneven wear on the bottom end bearings) I have also used Motul products for years in various bikes and had awesome results.

Ok well there is some misleading info in here... This is from the best auto elec I know, the standard and most ecu's can handle 14 volts before they fry, When jump starting an R33 (this is what I have unsure for others) jump start from the power box under the bonnet not the battery as the ampage drain is huge from the battery in the boot to the box to the starter motor. Start the car with the parkers/lights on, this will provide a small ampage drain and reduce the affect of a spike. The spike arrestors that RACQ use are crap and in affect will unlikely help if there is a spike.

Got my car back on Friday, now just have to run it in. The engine builder and mechanic both recommend SEMI-SYNTHETIC and not full synthetic to be run in the car once the engine has been run in using full mineral based oil. the fact is ALOT of Japanese cars have synthetic run in them as this is viewed as HIGH quality, however, you need mineral based to bed in the rings and then run semi-synthetic/full synthetic later on depending on rings. As my rings are chrome-moly then I will be using a semi-synthetic from now on...!!!

Mobil 1 is shit... I just rebuilt my engine cause of full synthetic Mobil 1 crap...

The workshop doing my work is a VERY good mate. I wrote this up and then spoke to him, cause last I checked (Friday night) the ARP bolts were in the box. He has been really pissed off to say the least in relation to people who SUPPLY parts. My RB25DET, is supposedly a rare type with each bottom end bearing being different and reference needs to be made to a special chart. As such Clevite had to match the specs and not just provide a kit for the bearings... Pain in the ARSE...you BET... So every step along the way my workshop has been honest, the scary thing is that some people are not. Currently, in this workshop there is a 180, with a $15K engine, when we pulled it down, no forgies as told, and the reason for the engine failure...standard bottom end bearings in the WRONG way... It is sad to see that so many places are dishonest...other places would have let me believe that the ARP bolts had been fitted...

B-Man, correct you are... I just double checked...we ordered ARP bolts, however have used the standard ones as they appear to be strong enough. We were actually sent the SR20 ones as you said...luckily I am not the one that put the bottom end together...So in fact never RELY on people you call to order stuff to know what the hell they are on about... While we are on the rod bolts are there aftermarket ones available for the standard RB25 and RB26 bolts??? I have heard that there are RB26DETT bolts, but the RB25 rods need to be redrilled to fit, an exercise I am not willing to take... This is SOOOOOOOOOOOO confusing as you get different stories from all different places... Oh and Geoff have gone Venolia pistons and rings, standard size.

I should have done this ages ago when I talked you you Geoff about those rings and pistons...good idea. Engine/Car: 1996 R33 GTS-T - RB25DET - 60,000kms Type of failure: Fouled number 5 plug, engine stripped down to reveal original honing marks and un-bedded piston rings. Also collapsed piston oil rings in all cyclinders. Slight knock at 1500rpm (before stripping down) revealed to be wear imperfection in main bearing of number 5. Rest of engine after stripping shows little to no wear indicating the kays are reflecting almost accurate picture. Factors influencing the failure: Possible causes narrowed down to date from engine builders and mechanic and myself. Crap fuel, and crap oil, yes I used MOBIL 1... State of tune of the engine: Stock besides pod filter and cat back 3" exhaust. Suspension and tyres: Stock with 18's Oil used and service interval: Mobil crap 1, serviced EVERY 5,000 since arriving with 30,000 on the clock General comments: After a month off the road now due to getting better replacement parts, it is most likely the result of crap oil, oil that is in fact too thin...added to this the fact that the rings never bedded in properly and there is evidence of oil burn past the rings. The engine has now been rebuilt using a variety of parts, mostly new Nissan with the exception of bearings, rings and bolts, which are aftermarket including Venolia Rings, Clevite bearings, ARP bolts, I have used the standard Nissan Gasket kit to date, the head gasket may get changed after it is run in. Also had the rods linished and shot peened, crank and everything fully balanced. I will update once it is back together and I can finally have my pride and joy back on the road....

The standard rods are reasonably decent, the RB25 ones are forged, the weaknesses lie within the fact that the foging process is not complete. I would recommend getting the rods, crack tested and shot peened, which basically cleans up the rod as uneven or weak points cause the breakage at high RPM and with detonation. I would also recommend all new bearings and ARP bolts are almost a must with forged pistons as this helps keep things together considering you are building the engine to take more punishment. That does not mean you skimp on the tune which is vitally important... Also make sure your engine builder bores the chamber as specified on the piston spec sheet along with the correct honing as specified on the ring set. All to often rings do not bed in properly as honing is not done properly resulting in stripping the block down AGAIN...

Allstar Gavin Woods And Peninsula Mechanical, they do my car and Simon the owner knews them inside and out. If you are buying the car then INSIST on it going where you WANT it to...otherwise walk away!!!

I thought that the rods were different, the gudgeons the same and the pistons have lower compression... Anyone confirm this with FIGURES?? Other than that I was on the belief that they were intechangeable...

Quick question as I have searched and not found a POSITIVE confirmation either way. Do the RB26DETT pistons fit the RB25DET block, if not can the block be bored and honed to accomodate the RB26 pistons. In addition, will the gudgeon(sp) pins fit the RB25 rods?? Can the RB25 gudgeon pins be used with the RB26 pistons???

Have you got pictures of the pistons and also what boost they were previously run at... I am unsure whether I will need them or will go forgies...have to pull the engine anyway so we will find the problem. By the way people this is due to a slight knock at 1,500rpm+ in number 5 piston also causing plug foul if anyone else has had a similar problem any help would be appreciated...(note engine has done 60,000kms...on stock boost always...so it could be a bottem end bearing...maybe)

Sorry to drag up an old thread but Number 5 is in need of replacement. Do you still have the pistons, will pay $50 incl rings and postage to Brisbane!! Thanks Neill

If its in a word or other document format...go nuts!!!

I thought it was sold orginally for $3,800...

Can someone send me the R33 GTST and GTR Files if possible... Neill.Reilly@pitcherqld.com.au thanks!!!

Geeeeeeeeekkkkkkkkkksssssssss

Any press is bad press...if you have a modded car you are no longer a CAR ENTHUSIAST, you are now a HOON... Gone are the days when you merely had Bogans and Rice burners, now everyone is classified the same...why cause the few bad eggs spoil it for the masses and remember how much your mum chucked a mental when you tried a smoke... Well times that by a couple of hundred thousand and you have the dosile public of Australia, fed nothing but lies and inuendos which do nothing but feed the public's pathetic thirst for giving it to someone else so that they can justify their piss weak existance on this earth... I say to you mass media, one day the public may actually mentally grow up and then you will be nothing but a bunch of wankers in a news room!!! I have seen the free press move countries, I have never seen the mass media do anything for anymore justification than to make a buck.

GTR Cam has a widebody kit fitted by Ares Speed...looks good and is not as over the top as some of these...and it does look PHAT...

Good luck and may you send us stacks of cheap parts!!!

Finally read it today!!! Nice work bro...now you will have to do the RB30...PROPERLY...hehehee

Bastards... Where is the "Disobey Orange Circle" Fine, its $30 and no points apparantly...