Bobjones

:headspin: :headspin: LOL....this cracks me up everytime... :flamed:

MONEY MONEY MONEY...oh thats a song sorry All I want is to see most of my family for Xmas and catch up with my mates before I go OS

I was thinking of sticking to the big names that Rocket industries bring over. Mainly Auotmetre stuff, there is always a Honda Ricer happy to buy a monster tacho. Prices i have found so far a slightly cheaper. Th ething about NY is that you DON't pay full price, always hagle and that is what I intend to do. Cam, one day you can go buy another GTR, the fact is I may never be able to afford one, so consider yourself lucky in that regard. But you are out of luck with the car...its going to PMR and then to my olds, so my mum can drive it!!! Jap parts seem to be just as expensive and some are cheaper direct from nengun. this is web only, so I guess actual experience is what i need!!! And Strutto, yes I am a bastard!!! EDIT: If anyone has a clue to get onto a US skyline forum so I can ask some questions please feel free to help me out!!!

As the title says!!! My firm: INSERT PLUG HERE: Pitcher Partners Chartered Accountants (Yes I am an accountant) www.pitcher.com.au Have decided to send me to NY for 3 months for work. Nice!!! So I will be leaving on the 28th of December and spending New Years in the Marriott hotel just off time square!!! the rest of the time will be spent living in Greenwich Village and working in 3rd avenue just near Grand Central. I may even head down to Miami at the end of my trip but that is a WHOLE other story. Anyway, the reason for this thread...other than to rub it in...is to get some info regarding things to buy car related and if anyone knows anywhere in NY or close by that I should visit. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Oh and if you want parts etc when I find them (I will set up an email before I go) I am sure we can work something out!!!! Cheers Neill

Yes the old line does not get out much, seems too many Commonwhore and Falcodicks driving around who want to race you at the lights... I need a bucket to drive me thinks...

Yeah I saw me on Boost...NOT

59ANK went past me this morning on the ICB, nice looking car...you are a daring individual for driving that way along that bit of road... Oh and a maroon series 1 followed me past the Roma Street Courts this morning afterwards...bloody sjylines are everywhere!!!

Welcome, I too have a white series 2...god they are rare

Anyone seen my micky darbs, racing carbs and a beefy rear end... the task force to monitor forums has been set up for over 2 years now...move on...

You missed out honing the block with your mums egg beater and some 300 grit sand paper, the cheap kind where the sand comes off!!!

Refer to signature

And the other reason is you can't handle the power :flamed: Or that you need a new 6 5 1 18 2 15 24.... After you build the "dream home" you better help me build the "dream" drag car

Ok now ot answer the questions shortly.... Yes at light vary the revs, no need to blip as you put it, alot of the time the revs with come back down slowly due to the standard ecu (thus why it is better to run an engin ein using the standard ecu) As for vary the revs yes over the idle to 3,000rpm. Staying at 60 in fourth and not varying the revs will do the same as idling at the lights... During this time I actually disconnected my turbo timer, and varied the revs slightly in the garage for about 30 or so seconds after a drive. Its does not need anymore than that as you are NOT driving it hard. Keeping it under 3,000 means that you don't score the bores and places load on the engine before the turbo takes too much affect. That si what is meant by load, too much load and it has a detrimental affect, eg going up a hill in fourth with the clutch rattling as the revs are just above idle, some load is good, too much is also bad. Effectively just drive like miss daisy and you will be fine. I was also running a clutch in at the same time whcih helped with me staying level headed after waiting 2 months to get my car back!!! Hope that helps

Slightly disagree, not with the principle just the generalisation. It depends on many factors especially what level of work has been done, the amount of honing, the type of rings including the squash/squish if you don't know what this is GOOGLE it... there are a number of threads on here going through it. As for running in, get an idea FROM your engine builder, if he has NFI or does not come up with one from the start, follow this procedure. Put money back in pocket turn to fac exit and walk!!!! I recently had my engine rebuilt bu tusing Venolia chrome moly rings. This was honed very coursely due to the ring tensile and the fact that the factory rings had never bedded in properly. The run in procedure was slightly different to above in that it was run in for 500km's using running in oil, which is basically a full mineral based oil. This was then changed to more mineral based oil for the other 500km's. all the time varying the revs and never letting it idle longer than 20 seconds or so. The first 500km's are critical to these engines as the block has a reasonably high silica content. Should you leave it idel for an extended length during the run in procedure you WILL score the bores resulting in the rings NEVER being able to bed in properly. Also now I use Motul 4100 turbolight as it has been recommended by my engine builder that this SEMI-synthetic is right for my rings, state of tune, which is reasonably stock and the thickness 10-40 is appropriate for the use and temp of the climate. All these things should be discussed with you by you engine builder. Just thought I would throw a spanner in the mix!!! :werd:

Its your idler bearing on the TIMING BELT not the FAN BELTS per the previous picture, it happended to mine after my engine rebuild as everything was tight to fact specs and the bearing was starting to wear from factory... Just replace it, it s abugger of a job and you need to remove the radiator etc etc etc usually it is the passenger side idler, as this has the most force applied to it on start up and aceleration...

Already DONE... But yes, I have always assisted my fellow ENTHUSIASTS...if people are wankers...you just leave saying I will call someone...and don't :rave: :angel:

I second this... Also does anyone know an approx cost of the bearings???

Change the oil...if that does not help much check the clutch engagement point and disengagement point (these should in fact be slightly different...but not by much)...other than that your syncros may have gone to heaven...which may be a result of your driving and/or crap box oil...

My gf used to own our line...and she likes smocking blokes at the lights...she used to beat me...so I bought the car...hehehe

96 R33 GTST Series 2 Age; 25 Australian Accountant/Business Advisor Oh and Mr Tax man its my girlfriends car if your reading this...

Yes gavin an autotek is good, oh and Simon at PMR rebuilt my engine, and has done many performance cars... and no they don't specialise in 4wd's as such. they have a specialist mechanic there that does. They are actually opening a separate 4wd shop...don't judge a book by its cover...

One of my clients is a broker, Insurance Advisernet Australia, they used to advertise in HPI, number is 07 3397 5511 ask for Adam Lewis and tell him Neill sent you. If you are under 25 you CAN get insurance under $2K with your mods.

Yep and I felt that on the flight to Townsville the next day...and I am feeling rather crap today. Happy birthday again, your hiding your age well...not :spcartman

There are other places in Redcliffe that are very good at diagnosing and repairing RB's...refer sig

Hey TURN THAT SHIT OFF!!!!!