Bobjones

Thunder Road at the coast, otherwise dare I say it Drift King at Geebung do good pipe work, that is the only reason I would ever go there...as for ADD...don't even think about it... Sorry unsure of the Southside!!!

Thats what happens when they are FAKE... But at the end of the day I would play with them...I love toys...

People, My drivers side tie rod has busted the rubber boot. Does anyone have one, I have tried a couple of places to no avail... If anyone knows where to get one for an R33 GTST in Brisbane it would be appreciated!!! thanks Neill

That rotatoe turbo bug knocked Cam out in the Semi's of ET, cause he missed fourth the only time all weekend something went South... He would have had the bug too... :flamed:

Friday night after he left my place when we changed the ECu back from the Motec to standard...it is a sore spot so we will leave it at that...some farkers have no respect for others cars So all his runs on the weekend were done with the standard ECU, so you WILL see the times come down when that piece of crap is sorted...

People, I need the drivers side tie rod, the boot has split and grease is goooooooonnne. If anyone has one or knows the part number can they please post ASAP. Thanks Neill

Thanks Man i love you too...give us a call re tomorrow!!!

I will be heading for the Competitors opening, I am not competing but Cam GTR is...especially after my piss poor first effort on Wednesday's T&T...my bloody pulsar was faster, but then again I did baby it, especially after seeing Cam's GTR nail me off the line...

Did you plug the sensor back in??? Also check your AFM plug if you disconnected that

Had the same problem...turned out to be the rings...hopefully it will be the same for you...

Picks of boost guage...

I used normal polish and it came up a treat and has not gone back since and that was a year ago... Meguirs Wet Look is what I used. I have also heard of using a light metal polish such as Autosol works, but cannot verify for myself...

People, Maybe someone can shed some light for me... I have a R33 GTST Series II, now there are 3 plugs next to the radiator overflow tank. The top one has the wires cut, can anyone tell me what this was/should be connected to???? the plug is still there the wires have just been cut and taped up. Also there is a unused plug next to the horns in front of thr radiator. I still have air con and as such the air con fan is on the other side (passenger), but what is the plug on the drivers side for???? Cheers Neill

Quickfit at Yerongpilly does all my mates cars. Ask for Jason and tell them Neill sent you. they do alot of the work for rally cars and have a four wheel alignment machine.

Geezuz that is alot... Oh and it must be either a 1, 2 Warranty or a Concrete Warranty...Once you have it 2 bad, or it leave the Concrete there is your warranty... Once you get your car back I think you need to pass on this guys details...

Thanks for that. I spoke to Simon on the weekend, and I can say is I feel for you. And I would be getting stuck into that other guy...what a tool. I like the cooler where did you get that done???? I was in there on Saturday and you box is now out, are you getting this serviced while your at it??? I was there pulling the timing belt off again as an idler was making a funny noise...nice little project for a Saturday morning then put it back together so I can go out... the car now runs like an absolute dream which is testiment to Simon, Rob and Wayne (who works elsewhere) You will be happy with the result. Just took a long way to get there!!!

I have used WW Shockabsorbers at Virginia many times. They are extremely good and reasonably prices and do a range of suspension stuff as well.

It is NOT the type of clutch that matters, but the materials used. Would you install brake pads and not bed them in (unless like the EBC they come pre-bedded)...cause they are organic and glaze up. Same with an organic clutch which is what the Exedy HD is... Composite clutches will also have a similar problem, Brass button clutches are about the only ones you should bed in for a short period.

I am currently using run in oil... But previously used Motul 4100 turbolight, holds 2 bar oil pressure at idle easily (4 bar at cold start up) I have been recommended to use the 4100 as it is a semi-synthetic for the rings I am running. I have also been told that for daily driving this is appropriate however track days would require an oil suited for higher temps or install a oil cooler...

It also depends on the dtergent level...this will influence how well it works...or should I say cleans the engine. The quality of oil shows how it lubricates with less metalic particles, as for the soot/carbon this should be absorbed somewhat by the filter...the rest of the oild should suspend it...

I have iridiums and the fact is they are great...no flat spot as was evident from the worn out Blitz iridiums and the NGK coppers. Also the gap depends on the boost level and timing you are running. Standard boost and timing the 1.1 gap is fine. And don't regap them cause you will stuff them... The reason I went iridiums is that I got them cheap, $9 each...can't complain...

1000km's is a bit excessive... Previously in other cars i have had the same clutch. All you need to do is drive without dumping the clutch, riding it, or downshifting from huge revs (downshifting from about 3,000 should be the highest that you should) this will let the clutch and pressure plate bed in and not cause uneven wear on the flywheel as well. i will be running my new clutch (also a Daiken HD) for 1,000 but that is only cause I am running the engine in at the same time and as such cannot go past 3,000rpm...

You should also have a copy of the transfer of rego papers you signed that you can send to the transport department...

bit of a difference between 12.5 and low 17's... and they are still low kays...free bump

I took Monday off to recover from the weekend at Double... So I am bludging here at work today...well sort of bludging...