Mitcho_7

The only difference with mine is its on all the time, whether the a/c is on or off.

Appreciate the offers guys, but I have stated that I would like a SILVER gtr spoiler.

I feel that graph is from a very happy dyno... But if boost isn't bleeding uptop it might be accurate?

I've got a hypergear high flowed r34 turbo and once I get my ecu issues sorted, I will hopefully be putting it in. The dyno graph in the hypergear thread show it on an r34 putting out 260rwkw on 17-18psi bleeding off to like 14ish psi up top.Ill be hoping for about 240kw or so on my r33.

Well that might partly explain why the idle wasnt really affected that much with the z32 or the r33 ecu running the car and the a/c on, the car didnt die with either. But if thats the case, wouldnt the exhaust temp lamp only come on when i turn the a/c on? Most things I have read say that the s2 FICD is run from the ecu not by the a/c directly and Matt seems to think that exhaust temp lamp on the r33 s2 is pin 32 which is going into the z32 ecu check engine light pin. I think Ill be waiting to hear back from Matt before I do anything about it.

Pretty sure he's not trying to sell it mate or it would be posted in the for sale section not the forced induction section asking for advice...

Pretty sure ficd is ok, because we have established my r33 is a series 2 which runs ficd, but will clarify this with Matt once everything is sorted. We know pin 32 on the z32 ecu is check engine lamp and pin 32 on the r33 is exhaust temp. So if we can find out what pin the check engine lamp on the 33 ecu, the signal can be moved from that pin to pin 32 and it should hopefully work. I just hope doing that doesn't throw the check engine light on the dash instead of the exhaust temp lamp.

The nistuned z32 ecu is loaded with the base map for the r33 rb25det and my r33 is pretty much stock except for an exhaust and pod filter at the moment. Ive got the nistuned z32 because i have a whole bunch of new stuff to put in the car, but figured i would double check that it was all working properly with the base r33 tune before i went and ripped out all the stock gear, replaced it with the new stuff and adjusted the nistune settings for bigger injectors and afm so I could limp to the tuners.

I have no idea how to do this and dont really want to be pulling out wires etc as the car is also my daily and I will need it next week You raise a good point about why the lights on with no codes, im only going off of what my ecu consult display from ecutalk.com says when I go into faults.

So essentially the exhaust temp light with the z32 ecu installed how it is at the moment is actually the check engine light?

In the video with the z32 plugged in and the a/c on the idle doesnt seem to go up a bit like the name fast idle control device dictates it should. Then, when its turned off it jumps up abit then settles again, so i dont know if the FICD is actually working or not. On the pinout diagram for the z32 I cant even see exhaust temp lamp so I guess it doesnt use one and which ever pin is the r33 series 2 exhaust temp lamp on my loom is plugged in to something it perhaps shouldnt be on the z32 ecu and its turning the lamp on. EDIT: Just read Matt from nistunes post above. Let me know when you hear back from them Matt.

thats the series 1 pinout, the r33 series 2 is apparently meant to use pin 33 for the FICD, the same as the z32 ecu does.

negative, wasnt aware i needed to be disconnecting plugs under the passenger seat for the s2 r33?

You would expect this to be the case because you have more pipe length for the air to travel through compared to the stock side mount. Probably would be worth getting a tune to tidy it up.

ok, so i plugged the nistuned z32 ecu back in and recorded the dash with aircon on and aircon off. I also recorded the standard ecu with aircon on and aircon off. This is with the standard ecu plugged in This is with the z32 ecu plugged in (note the exhaust temp lamp) The idle with the z32 ecu in is higher and it was recorded second after i had already had the car idling for a minute or 2 on the standard ecu. With the air con on with the z32, the car doesnt sound like it does with the standard ecu. I took the car for a spin with the z32 ecu plugged in and revved it out to about 5500rpm in second and third and it didnt stutter or go into limp mode at all. My consult display also shows no fault codes with the z32 ecu plugged in.

Cool, though so. Now I just have to try and track down a pinout diagram for the series 2 ecu to find out which pin is running my exhaust temp lamp

no ignitor, so series 2?

heres the pic on the top of the engine at the back

Yeh, I tried the a/c with the z32 plugged in but because it was cold, it was idling fairly high anyway. The car didn't die went I put on the a/c. If its a series one, the ficd is done by the a/c separately isn't it so shouldnt it work regardless? I'll go have a look for the igniter on the engine and get a pic now.

I believe I stated I would like silver, but thanks anyway.

So u have had the same issue with yours?

Anyone know which pin runs the exhaust temp lamp on the r33 s2 or have access to an s2 ecu wiring diagram?

done both, hopefully I can find out what the deal is.

lol, It doesnt bother me being on as long as its not on due to there being something wrong.

Yeh above the cat temp light is the check engine light which isnt on. For the time being i have dissconnect the z32 and put my r33 ecu back in, but I still want to get it sorted. I have contacted matt at nistune and he has said it seems unusual, especially if my car is a series 2 as I thought.