Mitcho_7

Seems to drive fine, I took it around the block and it didnt die on me or anything, but that was only a quick spin so im not sure. How can i tell for certain what series it is? Certainly has the series 2 front bar and rear wing and a passenger side airbag that much I know...

surely someone has one?

Plugged in my nistuned z32 ecu today which i got from Matt at nistune and the car seems to fine with it in, but the exhaust temp light on the dash is on as soon as the car is turned on. I have a 96 gtst that I always thought was a series 2 which meant I didnt have to worry about the FICD pin on the z32 ecu being different to the s2 rb25det ecu. Taken from the nistune website: 5) FICD output – pin 33 * Series 1 R33 only The R33 Series 1 RB25 engine uses pin 33 for the Exhaust Overtemp Lamp on the dash.This line should be disconnected as the Z32 uses this line to drive the FICD (Fast Idle Control Device) – for idle up when aircon is on. FICD is driven seperately on the R33 Series 1 RB25 via the aircon system. Note that the R33 Series 2 RB25 does use the FICD the same as the Z32 ECU, so this modification is not required for those engines Anyone know what might be causing the exhaust temp lamp to be coming on or If there was some series 1.5 r33's that run the series 1 ecu but have series 2 bodies etc produced in early 96 or something? Is there anyway to tell whether its a series 1 or 2 ecu with the serial numbers on the ecu?

Plugged in the nistuned z32 ecu today and the car seems to fine with it in, but the exhaust temp light on the dash is on as soon as the car is turned on. I have a 96 gtst that I always thought was a series 2 which meant I didnt have to worry about the FICD pin on the z32 ecu being different to the s2 rb25det ecu. Taken from the nistune website: 5) FICD output – pin 33 * Series 1 R33 only The R33 Series 1 RB25 engine uses pin 33 for the Exhaust Overtemp Lamp on the dash.This line should be disconnected as the Z32 uses this line to drive the FICD (Fast Idle Control Device) – for idle up when aircon is on. FICD is driven seperately on the R33 Series 1 RB25 via the aircon system. Note that the R33 Series 2 RB25 does use the FICD the same as the Z32 ECU, so this modification is not required for those engines Anyone know what might be causing the exhaust temp lamp to be coming on or If there was some series 1.5 r33's with series 2 bodies etc produced in early 96?

Contact them and double check to make sure. Might also be worth asking if they are willing to underquote the price of the clutch on the invoice to keep it under $1000 inc post so you don't risk getting hit with import duty and gst... EDIT: Just looked on the nismo website and it says for the r33 gtst you will need to purchase a Nissan genuine engine plate (Part no: 30411-05u01) and exchange with the existing part. http://www.nismo.co.jp/en/products/competition/clutch/pdf/clutch03.pdf I think that is the engine backing plate the from the 33 gtr and 33gts4 maybe?

http://perfectrun.jp/src/detail.php?pid=22027&pname=SUPER%20COPPERMIX&maker=nismo&maker_id=22&result_mode=qui&mcate_id[]=mct_6 That's a nismo single, the twin is available at the same place

single plate nismo is about 1200, it's the twin plates that are 2k+ If you're only wanting something to hold a bit more than you have now I reckon you would be fine with an npc clutch or something similar mentioned above. I only got a Jim berry because I am plannIng for the future as well as the present.

Are you installing the clutch yourself kasko? If not, I'd budget about 550-600 for labour ontop if you save the oil. You could also look at the single plate nismo copper mix from perfect run, comes with everything and new flywheel I believe...

No worries man let me know when you're free and we can go from there

Uses stock flywheel but obviously it gets machined

You're more than welcome to test it out before u decide if you want

Cost me $1413 inc postage for the carbotic version with a new rear main seal and the sleeve pre machined to 14mm. Definently not the cheapest clutch but should hold 350+kw should I ever wish to drop the coin for that sort of power. I think the organic version is slightly cheaper but has less clamping capacity.

Clutch is in, stalled her on that steep ass driveway at esp but no dramas since. First impression of the Jim berry full Monty is nice pedal feel, certainly more on off then stock but very street able

After a good condition R33 gtr rear wing in sonic silver, would prefer it to have the eye level brake light included. Must be willing to post if you're not located in Canberra. Let me know if you have one! thanks, Mitch

The benefit of having the straight through pipe put in would be improved flow due to less exhaust gas turbulence because there isnt a hollow cat Im guessing?

I was just thinking about the logistics of this. It wouldnt be as simple as sticking a 3" diameter pipe down the middle of the cat and then welding it in would it? Because if its only a 3" cat how the shit are they gonna get the 3" diameter pipe in there? Im guessing they would have to crack it open or something. Anyone had it done?

Bit of a novus question, but could the stock bov contribute to boost bleeding at higher rpm on the ss1pu's or are they usually good for 300kw+ ?

I spotted numerous skylines out at ESP today when I dropped my car off to get the new clutch put in, anyone from here out that way today?

When I got pulled over and given a warning for doing 90 in an 80 zone (damn parkes way and it's speed changes) the cop was reasonably nice about it I guess but I wasnt trying to get into a confrontation with him about it either. I suppose as long as you don't give them a reason to pull you over with crazy driving then you should be pretty right in terms of getting defected.

The cats already gutted so the ozone is already copping a beating...

I guess its something to prepare for once everything is done to the extent that your happy with it and not looking to make any more major changes.

Seems pretty on par with kaskos result, but yours doesn't seem to have the boost control issue. Is your actuator a 14or 20 psi one? Edit: just read your running 16psi so it obviously isn't a 20 psi actuator

You make it sound so simple, but I bet it's a lot harder in practice to get a cert Edit:just saw troys post, sounds like a real bitch to do!

You make a strong point there, I guess as long as the car isn't stupidly low they won't give 2 squirts about suspension.

Is it possible to get a 3" pipe welded into the cat making it essentially a decat ?