sonicii

I feel your pain.. I have had the same problem with brake suppliers refusing to accept their catalogues are wrong regardless of how much evidence you give them. Just about all local brake suppliers will tell you that all V35 non brembo brakes are the same.. This is WRONG! The listings they have are for Series 1 brakes only! After researching this quite a bit in the past, this is what I came up with - early non-brembo 350z (pre 05) and Series 1 V35 front and rear brakes are the same (296mm front rotors, 292mm rear rotors, single piston front and single piston rear callipers). 05+ non-brembo 350z and Series2/3 V35 front and rear brakes are the same (320mm front rotors, 308mm rear rotors, twin piston front and single piston rear callipers) Not too sure about the brembos, but I wouldn't be surprised if they are the same. Rear pads are the same across all. Front Pads are different. As for the handbrake, I researched this a little and couldn't find anything to suggest the 05+ 350z rear rotors have a 190mm handbrake, all the resources I found said it was a 170mm just like the V35. However, I did find the Brembo rears have a 190mm handbrake. However, some have claimed the have seen non-brembo 350z rear rotors with a 190mm handbrake, so I am not to sure of this. As for real life experience, I have a 05+ 350Z rear rotor on my S2 V35 and it fits perfect, same size handbrake.

I am using castrol edge 5W-30 on both cars. I change oil and filter at 6 month intervals (because we do under 5,000km in that time) My V35 has 103,000km. And the J31, has 83,000km.

Mine very rarely rattles at startup.. usually only after I have left it sit for many days, and then a very short rattle, certainly less than 1 second and only seems to happen about 1-2 seconds after firing up, it doesn't make any noise from the instant it fires. I just assumed it was due to the extra time it takes to obtain full oil pressure if the engine hasn't been started for an extended period. Just overnight or after sitting at work all day, I get no noise at all. Same with my wife's J31 Maxima with the VQ35DE engine. Even after an oil and filter change, it doesn't have any rattle at the first startup while the filter takes a few seconds to fill with oil.

A Nissan dealer or someone with a Consult3, some good mechanics may have a OBD3 reader which should be enough to check for error codes.

This can be a symptom of several different faults. I had a bad connector on the throttle pedal connector which gave the same warning lights and also severely limited power until I shut down the engine and restarted. You need to get the codes read to determine the actual cause.

the 18in coupe rims are the same size all round, yet run wider tyres on the rear too, so it isn't just related to rim size. As long as you don't have any rubbing issues on the front guards with wider tyres, then I can't see any issues with going to 245s all round.

From what I could find, only the brembos have a 190MM handbrake.. could be wrong though, info was a bit sketchy. I only know the 05+ rear rotors fit my S2 V35 fine.. including handbrake size.

Mostly.. I have been down this track myself a while ago.. S1 and S2/3 front pads are definitely different. the S2/3 V35 run a twin piston front calliper, the S1 is a single piston and the brake pads are larger on the S2/3. Rear pads are the same across all non-brembos, despite the larger rear rotor on the S2/3 I used a late model 350Z rear rotor on my S2 (308mm diameter) and the park brake size was the same.. not sure if it was the smaller or larger size mentioned in the above link, but everything fitted and works fine, so maybe there was a 'changeover' period on the 350z?? as the rear park brake mech on mine is the same as the S1 V35.

if it cause is the same as described in the TSB, then no, you won't damage anything.

http://www.notre350z.com/forum/files/uploads/dold/1207422654_ClickClack.pdf

sounds like the classic V35/350z axel click.. there is a TSB for it.. i will see if I can find it.. it involves removing the rear axel, cleaning up and greasing the spline and re-assembling.

are the front brake pads for a S1 or S2/3?

I'll take the compression rod bushes and the oil filter if they haven't been taken yet!!

Nice. at least it isn't the evaporator!! that would be a 'dash out' job which is a bit of a nightmare!

Nothing needs to be done on the car if the key is cloned, the car doesn't even need to be available, the car just sees it as exactly the same as an existing working key. My guess is the locksmith couldn't clone that particular type of keychip and used a new key with a new chip and therefore a new code which needed to be programmed into the BCM, thus requiring the BCM code.

I have found that unless they are a large diameter or a highly 'in demand' type of rim, they don't sell well on ebay. I had a set of 16in Maxima alloys a while back, in mint condition, I tried several times to sell them, even offered free shipping to anywhere in Qld, in the end I sold them for $25 for the set of 4 (without tyres).

Have a read through this thread. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/440493-v35-help/

if you are going to all the effort.. use this instead.. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2012-NISSAN-SKYLINE-R35-GTR-ENGINE-ENGINE-VR38DETT-3-8-V6-TWIN-TURBO-4500-KMS-/171269679163?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&fits=Plat_Gen%3AV35&hash=item27e077e83b

EGR functions under certain conditions at all temperatures, it is not a method of warming up the car quicker. In fact it may not be used at all when the engine is cold (not sure on this) I believe the temp sensor is an indicator to the ECU that the hot exhaust gasses are actually entering the intake when the EGR valve opens. If the valve is blocked off, the ECU will see no temperature change in the intake when then valve should be open and throw a CEL.

if the OPs post is correct, he hasn't bought anything yet. He is doing his research..

Direct injection really just specifies the location of the injector. Considering EGR and PCV are emission requirements, newer Di engines are probably just as susceptible to the issues we are seeing in the older VQ DD engines. The advantages we have today is oil manufactures are now making oils suitable for Di engines which result in less 'gunk' in the intake manifold which should at least delay the problem.

Are you sure it is the diff? does the noise come and go when you accelerate/decelerate or is it constant at those speeds regardless of throttle position? it shouldn't be impacting fuel economy or performance unless it is about to fail big time. I haven't heard of any other diff issues on the V35 so perhaps it has been abused earlier in its life.. eg. run with no oil.

I would never recommend any engine oil 'additive'.. the oil manufacturer generally spends a few $$ on R&D to get their oil right, you don't want to mess that up with some additional chemical that the manufacturer didn't intend.

Oh, sorry, I thought you were talking about the VQ in general. The VQ35 manual recommends 5W-30. same as it does for the VQ35 engine in the locally delivered Maxima. But our climate also fits well in the 10W-40 bracket.

I have always run 5W-30 as per the manufacturer spec without any issues, why is this not the correct grade of oil? If the noise only occurs with a cold engine, wouldn't a thicker oil make the issue worse?