Marko R1

Fuel was from 2 different servos just to further confuse u hehe, I don't think its fuel related. I understand that lower temp does introduce more 02 but I also agree with NSNPWR in that an engine is more likely to knock in higher heat than when its cooler

I can't get into the pfc as crd lock their tunes. Paulr33 - I will look at the knock sensors and assoc plugs to make sure all is secure as I also think it might be mechanical, if it looks ok then its off to crd.

This is the thing, I've run 2 batches of fuel through it with the same symptoms

I've been using bp ultimate for the 5+yrs due to public perception, is it still the case to be the highest ron and cleanest fuel out there? Maybe I need to switch?

what is the set date to race the car paul? i though it was last night for some odd reason

this was my old setup but worth posting... Marko R1 ET: 11.15 MPH: 129.75 60': 1.55 Tyres: MT drag radials Nitrous: no Fuel: 98 pump Nissan: R32 GTR will post new setup figures soon

hi guys, last night i took my car for a drive with new my splitfire coil packs & it is still knocking high so ive left a msg for my tuner to look at my car. i was hoping the coil packs would have solved it but anyway...the joy of modded cars! 2nd gear showed 34 peak knock, 3rd gear showed 66 peak knock. i then cruised below 3krpm in 4th gear @ 60kmh - when i reset the peak knock on my pfc hand controller it immediately shows above 20 peak knock & as high as 25 peak knock (i did this back2back test a no. of times & got the same result every time). HOW is this possible on such low revs??? i think my knock sensors are not reading correctly, either they may might need replacing as ive been told they can fail OR maybe 1 of them has become lose over time, i luv playing the guessing game (reminds me of an ex-girlfriend) if the problem was just a cell that needs attention as suggested in my above posts, would i still have the same results considering the circumstances i.e. low revs, high knock?

X 4

Hi guys, When i 1st ran my car over the weekend with my new coil packs & new plugs bcpr7es (gap 0.8mm) it was fine at the time but i only drove it for 10min. I started the car again last night & right from the onset on idle it was carrying on, coughing, very rough & could barely reverse it on flat ground so i let it run for about 10min & the idle slowly became cleaner but as soon i revved it the engine was extremely rough. I checked the plugs & they were black like powder charcoal – very rich! I then put my pfr7a’s (1.1mm gap) back in & the problem was fixed, drove it for an hour with no issues  I am trying to sum up a conclusion as to the cause...both plugs run the same temp sooo it must be the gap right? As u suggest Duncan, the larger the gap the stronger the spark & better fuel burn? It was tuned with pfr7a’s @ 1.1mm gap. I am guessing that if i regapged my bcpr7es @ 1.1mm they would be fine.

hubba bubba!!! that avatar of yours is a MAJOR distraction, fark me

i spoke to my mate over the weekend - he actually pulled high 1:07s with his R32 (which was my old aust delivered gtr) with mild tune on factory ecu, pads and shagged slicks...this was with 2 people in the car not bad for a 20yr old car. the r35 though is definitely in its element on a larger track as its not the smallest or lightest car out there

Are u farken serious lol - no wonder my rc car pulls up quicker

good thread! i'll be doing mine in 'dupicolor metalcast red' as most agree that this is the best paint for the job. i will also give it a base coat silver to help bring out the red BUT im not sure if i get the top clear coat...is this needed? lastly, will this paint ever crack/peel if i track the car?

Well my engine is rev limited to 9000rpm and other built engines such as rips racing can go to beyond 10krpm. U really need the opinion of an expert, have u placed this thread on gtr.co.uk? I bet if rob at rips looked at it, he will work it out Rob has helped me in the past and his theories have proved correct. Once u put your thread on the uk, pls send me the link as I am highly interested in this. Fuel washing out oil sounds possible as 8:1 is extremely rich BUT I'm not an engine builder, its also good that you bought an aftermarket balancer as I heard that rb30s are more susceptible to vibration at high revs

Shaun, what did your tuner say? Surely he had an idea of the cause...I mean, u have driven it for 2.5yrs without any issues then when u changed the ecu the problem arises? How did the oil pump look? I remember u saying 6mths ago that u had high oil pressure which is what u want

i fitted the new plugs & splitfires - runs like a dream & seems to hit harder all around i know its probably better for the coil packs to run without the valley cover as they probably get more air ventilation, is this more apparent on the track though as mine is a street car (and the valley cover adds bling to the engine bay )

hi guys, ive never been really happy with the brakes in my current gtr so i took them out & scuffed them up a bit on smooth conrete as they looked a little glazed. also running earls braided line kit. my pads are 'tokico' front & rear with plently of meat left (unfortunately hehe)...the only other wirting on it is '230M' on the front pads & '231M' on the rear pads, are these good or crap? they seem to have quite a bit of copper running through them as well. put it this way, i can press the brake pedal very firm & the abs will not kick in regards,

i only use an engine hoist, then once the engine is removed from the car i place the engine on the ground on 2 layers of thick carpet. working on the donk on a stand would be easier BUT it wont fall far if its already on the ground simply sit on the floor and start stripping it down

thanks steve - i expected u to know the specs

E85 isn't a bad idea but the inconvenience will definitely do my head in. With the larger housings I do question the possible lag and clearance issues, anyone know what they are rated at with .82s?

I'm sorry to hear that shane, I've been watching your build on the uk site and it is a weapon. Of u spun a big end bearing maybe it is oil pressure related? U did a good thing binning that n1 pump. What ecu were u running previous to the g4? If it happened when u did the ecu switch the cause sounds quite obvious, the base tune on the g4?

i am 'thinking' of upgrading the rear housings on my -10's (i probably wont be arsed yet its good to know anyway)...anyone have experience in running .86's in a twin (or single) configuration as i would liek to determine the power gain & fitment challenges as below: - the requirement for customised dumps - i was advised that .86 rear housing is more suited for single applications & that it might become too laggy (i dont want lag but maybe i can get away with it on a 3ltr) - i wasnt sure if there would be adequate room & clearance to run the larger turbos in a low mount position? here is the website, shows .86 option but no technical specs: http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...R_707160_10.htm

- on cold start up it is over 6bar - warm idle it is 4bar - normal driving it is just over 6bar - when i push gets close to 8bar HEAPS of pressure on hand great for the main & big end bearings!

i thought 1:09 in a stock r32gtr was quick.

where is the supporting content maybe a clip?