Marko R1

you're pretty gentle on the car

likewise - dont change the geometry of where the engine sits - i also cut my hood to clear the front cam cover & the 'twin turbo' induction pipe on my r32

mine also runs a similar brass t-piece, no issues with that setup

i just had a call from jim @ crd...we can finally put this to rest! jim was heavily involved in the development of what he calls "the ultimate pump" for the rb, some compare it to tomei, jun etc...from this they decided to release a 2010 version which now includes a billet backing plate, the main reason for this is to give it a point of difference from the japanese competitors. he said its like buying a newer version commodore i.e. change the bumpers, headlights etc. simple aesthetic updates to pick up the anti. mechanically, it does not improve the car what so ever which brings me to the next point...he couldn't justify pulling out a 2009 version nitto pump & replacing it with a 2010 as only the headlights have changed so to speak. there is no advantage nor a requirement to run a billet backing plate BUT it sets itself apart from the rest & its another tick in the box, makes sense to me. 100's customers are using the cast backing plate with not 1 failure to date - perfect record! the pump is competitively priced which also makes it the clear winner! lastly, the nitto oil pump is MADE IN AUSTRALIA & as jim quotes, "we have some of the best engineers in the world, just look at what else is made here for these cars: gear sets & ecu's" we even have the best tuner here in australia

greg/paul im sure my daughter will bring me up to speed in due course

hmmm...a bit above my head but my guess is its a cartoon character way before my time haha

if u are enquiring about an rb30 in a gtr, u need to use the same mounts. u can slot the mount holes but not recommended due to lack of clearance

i had the same problem on my rb26/30 in my r32gtr, in 2000km i snapped 2 p/s belts. i will slot the p/s holes by 5mm as advised in this thread, i will then make sure they line up with a straight edge. thanks URAS

the width of the r35 dwarfs the porsche - what a beast!

i remember the last time we discussed your lap times, low 40s at EC is a fantastic time , u were running 300awkw if my memory serves me right?

sold

done - pm sent

i dont drive a 35 but plan to buy one in the future - as for jim @ crd...u got that right ive taken both my gtr's to jim & nobody comes close (ive been around to 'other' tuners & it has always been chalk & cheese)

price drop to $30

price drop to $150

i did this for my i/c silicone hose kit, worked out well in the end haha greg what a statement lol...thunderbirds are go!

not sure what u would expect @ 20psi, however i made 405awkw @ 23psi = approx 450rwkw without my cams and porting by proengines i'd be down maybe 40awkw

-10s are like gtrs, u are right. i have -10s on my 26/30 as well as n1gtr and another member but i cant remember his name, power delivery is fantastic with very strong early midrange. my engine is far from standard though with forged bits, large cams, ported head etc in terms of drivability, i can say that it feels more responsive and much stronger than my previous setup gtss rb26, top end is chalk and cheese making another 100awkw

i dont run the front cam cover, i like seeing the cam gears. i did however cut the bonnet to clear inlet cam shaft cover and also the factory 'twin turbo' plumbing pipe...mega tight fit but well worth it

same reason i stuck with low mount twins, didnt want to attract too much attention although my personal fav is high mount twins for bling

the r33 gtr is also a series 2 - i heard that there are subtle differences although i may be wrong

hi guys, im looking for a front lower lip for an r33gtr, in the original black finish (not painted) based in sydney, thanks marko 0404 884 876

price is $200, including interstate shipping if required

now sold

u beat me to it to revenge, the context of your thread was seeking advise on -10s