BK

But who in there right mind would use genuine ? Good silicone hoses are cheaper and last a lot longer than the factory rubbish.

Most of the stuff mentioned here are not really engine differences, but car model changes with things that bolt to the engine. To me the only differences between actual 05U RB26 engines I can think of are the crank oil drive lengths between early and late R32 and the exhaust camshaft change from R33 to R34. Everything elae is an ancillary change fitted to the long engine for the car that it's installed into.

How much of a tight arse are you guys ! The connector is available from EFI hardware if you really wanna do it yourself for about $25au and NZ EFI already done is about $45nz, so it's hardly breaking the bank.

I sense sarcasm here and a dig at me not knowing what Im talking about, but I am not new to this clutch and gearboxes in a GTR. As I said it depends on the specific clutch, not how "crazy" your setup is. It very might very well work with the Nismo twin, but to assume it will just work every setup because you, Paul or Just Jap have not had a problem with them yet is not correct. So not myth busted, they really don't have as much travel and proved it on comparison years ago. if you talk to a clutch expert like ACS they will never recommend you to go to a slave that has less travel than the factory design. As mentioned I personally had this happen on an OS R3C circa 2009. Clutch was fine when new, then after a few passes and a bit of wear would not disengage clutch. Went through everything and landed squarely on the Nismo slave not providing travel as correct bearing carrier height and full master operation was later confirmed. Changed the slave rod at the track to a longer one just to see if I could get it to release at all - clutch started disengaging but it was too late to save the clutch after disasmbly. I didn't know this was a thing at the time but found out the hard way when ACS supplied me the ATS and ditched the Nismo. The point I was originally making is the Nismo push slave has less travel - this is a fact. To me they also make 2/10th of stuff all difference in lightening the clutch - so why run one ?

No worries, good job. If you persisted for days you would've got that solid stuff off but it does look pretty caked on. Might have needed to use a solvent for that last bit then rebleach to get it 100% Looks good anyway 👍

Don't stuff around just use this, as you won't do it any neater yourself.

Yeah that would cost about $2k from Spee3d for a one off in metal. They'd have it done overnight though 😊

Yeah nah - If you confirm you have full master cylinder stroke you can't do anything else at that end to improve the situation. If this area has never been stuffed around with the master stroke never needs to be adjusted as you already have full master stroke. The slave cylinder can only move as far as its full stroke length also, and this is achieved well before full stroke on the master happens. End of the day the Nismo 13/16" slave always gives less travel than the stock 3/4" bore sized item. Whether this is a problem depends on the clutch being used and its release requirement - some need more movement than the Nismo slaves can provide.

You shouldn't if push slave - they have heaps less travel than the stocker 3/4" slave. Pull slaves seems to not be as affected as much - I have ran both pull versions behind multiplate xtreme clutches in my 33R without drama before changing to ATS carbons with push setups. Nismo 13/16" slaves are supposed to be for single clutches generally because the HD singles have such high clamp load pressure plates, so it's really only so people with skinny Jap legs can have a lighter clutch with singles. I destroyed a brand new R3C using a Nismo push slave on my 32 years ago from reduced travel and just won't use them again as there is just no need for them.

Territory is not big big like a Cruiser and actually feels a lot smaller and nimble behind the wheel than you think. Lots of safety gear for the time - remember they were Wheels coty when they came out. My missus drives our AWD one around like its our Rex.

How much does it cost then ?

Mid 2000s Ford Territory or Toyota Kluger.

But Spec 2 build bro $$$

Exactly what I do having the cars on flex, and I live somewhere where E85 has to be drummed up. True that so many tuners want to try to tune individual throttle RB26s with MAP because they don't understand TPS fuel load and then get poor results. One of the many reasons I went to Simon at Morpowa as one of the few who I had confidence in to do it on fuel TPS load with the Haltech.

Wideband gives you an actual afr / lambda ratio, narrowband just signals whether it's richer or leaner than Lambda 1 / AFR 14.7:1.

Yes

For the Wideband O2 sensor I just go through the existing egt floor bung and a Haltech O2 sensor wiring extension harness. Don't want to drill more holes in car than necessary.

Holidays, but yeah will be looking at houses down there and seeing work about the transfer.

I'll be down in April

Same here, Supercharge but Gold series across all our cars for availability, warranty, cost, configuration variations and performance life. If I can't get these then only Century. Would love to run the Supercharge AGMs in the Nissans but they don't have the pencil posts and varied post positions available like the Gold series.

Or you can just convert the new gtt box back to push with the factory stuff.

As mentioned you need to verify correct fuel pressure before doing anything else.

No, there is no mention of fuel pump problems anywhere on SAU.

Mutha fker...👍

I guess it's one of those things that doesn't happen to everyone but it isn't unheard of either. Never personally had a problem with any of the 26s doing it but if it ever happens it'll be the first thing I'd fit.