BK

I use the sensor mentioned on the Haltech Elite, they work well. Golebys and Platinum racing also sell them, but they are just the factory long reach metric M12 thread Hella sensor 6PT 009 109 141 or 041 from BMWs and Landrovers, so they are cheaper to buy from a non performance place. They use a 2 pin EV1 connector like the factory injectors. In the factory location heat soak doesn't seem to be a problem with the Hella sensor as the sensor body is plastic, unlike the factory metal sensor which yeah as mentioned is no good when using VE tuning.

GSP have facilities in both China and North America not that it matters - I'll take a shot that the OEM ones are not made in Japan anyway and are not any better. The 32 ones have been in for over 3 years and replaced flogged out factory items where the bearing cups were completely stuffed. They'll be fine 👍

Did what, broke a belt or the balancer reducing clearance to cover and hitting issue ? Regarding breaking balancers I can absolutely relate. I had a stocker balancer destroy itself and take the engine with it too. Wrecked everything - cracked block, cracked crank and damaged pistons.

When was the last time you've actually seen an RB timing belt break ? That said if you don't know the age or condition of the timing belt on your car it should be changed out anyway.

Hey mate, GSP make replacements for them 9400203 and will be way cheaper and just as good as factory. GSP hubs and bearings are excellent quality and have good replacements for nearly everything. I run the hub and bearing on the back of one of the GTR 32s and places like Just Jap, Kudos etc. stock GSP but mostly for the R chassis cars. I didn't see them carrying the V36 part I quoted but they could get them, but even easier is GSP is sold through big places like Hardy Spicer and CBC so will be very easy to get directly at a good price too - I bet they are under $200 as an R32-34 GTR rear hub and bearing is about $170 each.

Time to do an end of year update of things for sale: Precision ball bearing Gen1 6266 turbo T4 divided 0.84 a/r SP cover - requires rebuild on chra, Slightly passing oil but will smoke if used, otherwise ok. Can be rebuilt locally by Rose rage turbos or sent back to Precision - $1100 Trust T78-29D turbo, T4 divided - requires rebuild on chra. Same as above passing some oil on seals. Easy to rebuild with genuine Mitsubishi parts - $900 NPC 10" single plate push clutch rated to 450kw. NPC7056B-10 Good condition, suit all RB push setups - $700 New in box Turbosmart OPR T40 turbo oil supply pressure regulator - $140 RB26 R33 flywheel - $200 NEW Prosport 60mm dual stepper motor type JDM series 40psi electronic boost gauge with pressure sensor, harness and 60mm gauge cup. Has dual analogue needle and digital readout, programmable warning light. - $220 Used BPP 14mm twin entry fuel rail, anodised black, no mounting spacers - $150 Used Nissan RB26 90A alternator - $150 (maybe I should keep this...) Used standard R32/R33 GTR blow off valves - $150 Used Turbosmart FPR800 adjustable fuel pressure regulator in blue. Fitted with AN6 male flare inlet and 5/16" hose barb outlet fittings - $150 Used BNR32 front upper control arms - $150 Used RB26 lower front belt timing cover like new - $60 2 X New RB26 genuine NIssan head gasket 11044-05U16 - $90 each (rrp $130) Used 60mm electronic boost gauge, 1.6bar max with MAP sensor. 60mm gauge cup included. Remote peak / hold controller - $90 3 x R34 GTR lower shifter bush - $10 each. Used R32 / R33 GTR pull clutch slave cylinder and hose - $90 Used Rear R33 GTR sway bar - $90 (Good S14 or S15 upgrade) NEW R33 GTR / GTS25T STS Performance (made in UK) 3 ply silicone lower radiator hose in RED from GCG turbos (not chinese ebay crap) - $45 Used R32 GTR front diff centre - $200 USED R33 RB26 LONG NOSE CRANK, unknown condition, has surface rust - $500 Carbon fibre N1 bootlip spoiler -$250 FRP N1 bootlip spoiler in TH1 blue - $200 Used Bosch 044 fuel pump - $100 Used SARD / DENSO 1000cc injectors. Low impedance , 0.85ms latency. Fit 10.5mm (standard) or 11mm fuel rail. - $400 Tomei sump baffle kit - $150 More to come when I think of it

No way ! Only thing I've ever had to do on that list in nearly 20 years on my 33 is the a/c vent mode selector actuator. None of those other things are an issue on a 33R generally but on the 32s it's almost guaranteed.

Applies to RB26 only, all others are fuel load via MAP default.

Yeah fuel load is TPS and ignition load is MAP. Fuel load is generally changed to MAP when moving to a single throttle.

R32s definitely are cursed - broken speedo cables, a/c actuators that always stuff up, a/c vents made from plastic for maccas kids toys, interior door handles that turn to talcum powder, guaranteed dash clock deaths and the dreaded dash pad bubble.

If not easy fix like above with the lower cover just being loose or bent, the worst case is another example of the lower timing belt gear and washer sheilds being compressed. When this happens the balancer will indeed touch the cover no matter what as the balancer has moved further inwards. This is usually an RB26 or high revving engine problem though but can still be caused by reusing the timing gear assembly when it should be replaced. The lower timing gear assembly compressing is precisely why Ross and Nitto developed hardened sheilds / gear that don't compress like the factory stuff.

I think he would argue its not a circuit - I would. A circuit would be current flowing through a conductor, an electrical connection between points. That's not what's happening here - there is no coil or wire with current flowing through it to move the needle, it's the eddy currents created purely by the magnet acting on the electrically conductive cup. Eddy currents do not flow in a circuit from start to end, they swirl around in a concentrated area in conductive material creating their own magnetic field. That's why I mentioned the wound spring on the needle, which is a force to oppose this electromagnetism that moves the needle. If the force that moves the needle is correct, to me the.only way the needle to move further than intended is for the tension of the spring on the needle to decrease or slip allowing more movement. That's the how a mechanical speedo needle could move more than intended, whether that's what's happening to this gauge, dunno.

An 044 or 340 is generally not big enough to stuff around with a properly working stock fuel regulator, but his reg looks pretty suspect and need of replacement anyway.

We drove 1500km straight on the white 32 before the PWM setup and a 525 pump at the full tilt, with AN8 lines though. Should be ok for what you want to do as the 044 flows about 2/3 of one of these and draws less current than the Walbro 525 by a fair bit. They do tend to cavitate though without the use of a good outlet check valve like the Speedflow ball one. A better pump than what you have now without going to very high current draw Walbros would be something like the AEM or DW 340lph intank pumps. They flow more than the 044, are quieter and draw pretty low current so would be the first logical step for a pump replacement. You go Walbro pumps you need pretty decent pump supply wiring, like minimum at least 6mm2 cable or 10awg. That said, that should still be the minimum cable size for a fuel pump feed on any fuel pump supply for voltage drop reasons. I run 10mm2 or 8awg for good overkill.

I get where you're going. My understanding is the cable spinning has a direct influence on the needle via magnetism right ? But it has to overcome the needle zeroing retaining spring tension to move at all right ? Only way I can explain is something, somehow that spring tension changed / decreased when it was bugging out. If that was the case at a real almost 0km/h car not moving but cable still spinning scenario, the gauge would have been not at 0 and deflecting around. Apart from that, fked if I know.

The factory fuel pump control module is a piece of shit that never really gives your fuel pump full battery voltage, so you definitely should do it. The 34 is exactly the same as 33 in the boot, it's only the 32 that's in the back seat body trim area. Essentially all you want to do is physically unplug and remove the FPCM and switch battery voltage direct to the fuel pump. Ghetto way to do this without the upgraded battery wiring is to just remove the module and wire the fuel pump negative wire directly to earth. They all work on all GTRs the same, having 3 pump voltage settings. You only get full pump voltage on cranking and full load, and then there is a medium load and idle / low load settings. Roughly speaking this translates into pump voltages of roughly about 8v, 10v, 12v. Even at full voltage setting the pump never actually gets the full 13.5v - 14.2v battery voltage because of the module earthing the pump negative through its small circuitry and the very inadequate factory wiring causing significant voltage drop. That's another thing contributing to your problems - Bosch 044s, and any fuel pump really, HATES low voltages under 12v. An 044 makes horrible noises at 10v - it will not flow properly and will actually damage them.

Yeah probably not that accurate compared to a $400 Fluke DC true rms clamp but will at least give you a ballpark idea. Make sure you zero it everytime. Only reason I asked was that your current reading is closer to a Walbro 460lph F274 at 30psi, being around 13.5 - 14A. Anyway we know the published specs for the Aeroflow are wrong.

So that's at your 33psi idle at full vacuum ? If so seems more in the ballpark as it's still around 16A on the Walbro specs at 30psi How good / calibrated is your DC clamp meter ? Fluke ?

Don't you dare say that about precision Japanese engineering ! It does prove how much a single Z32 afm could handle though

Not quite that bad with epoxy, but cut just enough to allow it to sit on the pipe then hose clamped around the pipe either side of the remaining curved section sealed with a rubber gasket. Didn’t leak! I suspect it was done to have the launch control on the Apexi pro ecu as there was no pro d jetro map sensor version. How times have changed.

Funny that back in 2008 my blue 32 I had a Z32 AFM in the pipework after intercooler with a Power FC pro and HKS T51. Not the entire AFM, just the hotwire sensor part in the alloy pipework and was setup like this from Japan. The car actually ran really well with it running 28psi and mid 10s on 98, but still got 10L/100km. Then the stock 20+ balancer failed and destroyed the engine 👍 But still...it did work.

So its not an actual Ti / Walbro then. Hey mate, can you do me a favour and clamp test the current draw of this pump ? I question the specs attached to it as they vary wildly from and actual Walbro 525lph F285. Aeroflow is claiming 460lph at 3 bar with 5A current draw ! I call bullshit as that current draw for that flow is exceptionally good - too good to be realistic for that style of pump. Either it doesn't flow what they claim or it draws WAY more current than listed. I personally wouldn't trust the specs of the Aeroflow Walbro knockoff to a real Walbro at all. No way you are getting that sort of flow from such low current draw. The actual Walbro 525 specs in comparison are 460lph at 40psi and draws around 18A at 13.5v. Before PWM on the white 32, I clamped it at 13.7v idling at 40psi and it did indeed draw at least 17.5A inline with Walbros specs.

If you put a pressure gauge at pump outlet and one at rail, at load I think you'd be surprised how much differential there is, like 20 - 30psi difference with lines that small and so much flow. I would not be surprised to see your actual pump pressure at idle at 60psi with your setup with only 40 at rail. This leads to all sorts of stupid shit like fuel heating, pressurising the fuel tank, splitting fuel tanks and obviously stressing the fuel pump causing premature failure. Seems to be classic example of too much pump for the lines Again with fuel module, piss it off and go proper battery feed to pump. Your situation really just looks like a stuffed reg. Fuel line upgrade should still be a high priority though - you can never go too big.

Though so, 10psi change is not normal and sounds very restricted. What possessed you use one of these on stock lines ?! For example our white 32 has the same 525lph with AN8 top hat fittings, AN8 supply and return lines with an FPR1200 using PWM. Changes about 4 - 5 psi Stock Nismo pump stock reg on 5/16 lines changes about 3-4psi in my 33.

What size fuel lines ? What pump ?