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BK

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Everything posted by BK

  1. To add to this list above it could also be the actual rear diff housing moving and clunking from stuffed rear diff bushes. Just had this on the white 32 - the forward horizontal rear diff bushes were worn and created and crazy clunk.
  2. Nitto 2.8. From just a quick glance at the readings, on the spool up at full throttle in the 4 - 4.5k rpm range the boost is in earlier at around 400rpm earlier for 22psi. Power at that same 22psi level is about 20kw higher too. This is actually noticeably more exaggerated on the part throttle and on/off transient throttle inputs for the car at under 4500rpm. Now as pointed out the extra 25 - 30% fuel on E85 might not equate to as high as 25% -30% extra exhaust gas, and granted there is definitely more timing in this area on E85 (3+ deg), but the difference is real and noticeable. How much is due to timing and how much is due to E85 you can't answer as easily.
  3. I'm still a bit lost for words really. This whole YouTube shit is getting a bit out of hand now that people actually are using it as a profession. It really pays that much ?
  4. In the US - says it all really 🙃
  5. He is right though as everything that has been given to you should have been adequate. Anyway if you've confirmed that your fan actually operates with the aircon when you had it, this would confirm you have: -working fan -functional fan relay -12v to the switched fan motor supply -12v to the coil side of the fan relay So if you can't get it to work without aircon it can only come down to how the fan relay is switching to ground. Understand ?
  6. If you do have 12v on a pin on the connector, grounding that terminal will make the fan turn on.
  7. Well then, no idea how that piece of shit has been modified to operate. They very well could have changed it internally, which is why you are having your problem. Bin it. Have you actually checked with a multimeter you have 12v between one of the fan switch loom pins and negative ? If you don't it's been changed upstream of loom. If you do the problem would be to do with the ecu not grounding the ecu pin because you know, Mines awesomeness.
  8. Manual states 90c +/- 3c just so we are not talking Fahrenheit rubbish.
  9. Then as Dose Pipe said your wiring has been stuffed with unless your ECU is not factory, as the fan has its own individual relay. On the factory ECU the fan relay pin is always grounded, so if you bridge / bypass the radiator thermo switch you energise the thermo fan relay turning the fan on. I will point out that the relay activation ECU pin is not constantly grounded on full stand alone ECUs like Haltech, Link etc. as they rely on the logic parameters to ground the input. In the case of a Power fc D-jetro map sensor vesion this pin is completely made redundant so the fan will never turn on.
  10. I'm still waiting for that cam trigger from NZ for the white 32. How long did it take to get yours ?
  11. Just pointing out what I have noticed from running 98 vs 109 vs E85. Even on VP109 unleaded which you can run similar timing advance to E85, the E85 feels more responsive overall from my broscience.
  12. I notice a MASSIVE difference on the blue 32 with the 6466, like I mean night and day even on part throttle inputs. I have the 98 vs E85 dyno for it on here.
  13. Broscience be incorrect there. E85 has superior spool because of the much increased exhaust gas volume from of how much extra fuel has to be added over 98. The extra 25 - 30% exhaust gas volume on E85 has a far bigger effect on the turbine than the higher egts on 98.
  14. There is a 6270 too, so I guess they are both aimed at class legal drag racing which would mean a poorer response performance turbo on an RB.
  15. Yeah probably right there
  16. or can bus gauges when you don't want to swap out your factory dash like me.
  17. 7275 is a bit of a dramatic upsize over the 6466.
  18. Yeah, as in shouldn't have changed the factory stuff there in the first place which is why Dose Pipe said what he said.
  19. B5 Trigger - is not pinned from the rb Elite patch loom to the engine harness, but shouldn't matter as the ground wire on the cas loom is also a common signal ground which is also what the Link uses as its signal ground. The engine position should only need to be referenced onto B1 Trigger + so no ECU repining needs to be done.
  20. That's the problem for the Haltech that they pin it to Trigger 1, which is actually your home + reference in physical wiring. This needs to be pinned to trigger 2 in the above diagram which is physically crank trigger position +.
  21. You use a link right ? The link you can reassign the cam signal cable to actually be the crank reference signal. On an Elite you can't as it is a fixed pin on the ECU, so they were sending them out preconfigured for link wiring on cas wiring pins 1 and 3. Yes a reluctor generates its own voltage. Can't believe Haltech told you to supply it 5v ! From what I can see the neg reluctor side needs to be pinned to ground and the pos side signal output pinned to the Elite TRIGGER +, so on a cas loom that would be the 2 outside pins 1 and 4. The way NZ wiring is sending them out appears that they are pinning the signal to the HOME + which will never work on an Elite unless you swap the pins at the ECU end which you don't need to do.
  22. Waiting to fit one of these NZ cam triggers to the white 32. I see your post on the Haltech forum when you were having problems getting it to work. I take it the problem was they were sending the sensor out pinned to the cam signal instead of crank correct ?
  23. Push or pull doesn't matter - gearbox input shaft doesn't know the difference if pull or push as they are the same box and crankshaft. Just bottom it out.
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