BK

Ok so the pressed in bush is stuffed, and that bush is not available separately as it comes fitted to the mount. So your only option is to source a new one from the places mentioned.

All this fuss over sourcing a Tarago diff support bracket / cross member. You'll probably get one from the wreckers. Just buy it direct for a genuine one from Japan at Amayama, JP car parts, RHDjapan or hell even ebay and call it a day as its only a $100 - $200 part. Just curious, but why do you need to replace this anyway ? Is the assembly broken or just the pressed in bush flogged out ?

Mate, I have r32 and R33 GTRs, - the front lower control arms and caster rods are identical. The old man actually pinched one of my spare 33 ones and has it on the white 32. Nissan isn't very good at always superceding part numbers for new ones in fast and just change the number a lot. Ikeya formula actually sell an adjustable 2 piece lower control arm and caster rod set that bolts into 32/33/34, which is what @GTRNUR was trying to avoid buying because of the price of them. This would be the easiest solution on a stock 34R. https://www.rhdjapan.com/ikeya-formula-roll-center-adjuster-lower-arm-kit-pillow-ball-type-bnr32-bcnr33-bnr34.html The big difference in 32 to 33/34 is the front upper control arm design. The rear arms between 32 GTR and 33/34 have a slight difference in offest though, even though they physically fit.

34 GTR has a stupid idea with the one piece lower control arm and caster rods. These can just be changed out to R33/R32 GTR separate caster and lower control arms apparently. @GTRNUR on here did this

Well, when you actually use the car frequently you do need the ability to remove the turbo easily. V-band means no gaskets for potential failure or stuffing around with flange studs or replacing nuts every disassembly. I'm not sure what the G40 series T4 flange is like on the exhaust housing, but if they are as compact on the flange plate to exhaust housing dimensions are on the Precision 6262 / 6266 / 6466 which have group C size T4 divided exhaust housings, you need to take the compressor housing off to access your turbo drain bolts and remove oil drain to then access the front outside flange stud nut. Then your front pipe needs to be completely removed, in my case unbolting from gate outlet too, to access the rear outside flange stud nut. No curved spanners or special sockets will help you when the assembly is in the car - it needs to be done to access the frigging outside flange nuts because of how the exhaust housings are cast. Inside flange nuts no worries, both can be accessed with a socket directly. So it's not really meh "4 nuts with a socket" job at all in a lot of cases. A v-band in / out guarantees you can just undo 2 clamps and job done, so I can see the merit as my old HKS T51 was a dream to remove.

Or he could keep the v band inlet exhaust housing and have a turbo he can remove in 30 minutes.

Absolutely this. If knew what a bastard T4 flanges were on the Precisions to work on I 100% would've opted for v band exhaust housings. Yep 😆

Yeah the 340lph AEM, Aeromotive and DWs look pretty much identical. The AEM 400lph external though is the same physical size / envelope as a Bosch 044 but flows more and is E85 compatible, which makes them perfect for people who had 044 surge tank setups like me to replace the pumps without reinventing the wheel on existing setups. I've had good results with the AEMs so I'll be sticking with them for now. The Walbro 525lph which we're using in the other 32 with PWM appears so far to be better than the 460, but the AMPS ! The current draw is massive at full load and lots of fuel output at low loads without PWM so not exactly a drop in solution for anyone.

For low current consumption and reliability, AEM pumps are excellent. I have found them to be the most reliable out of any pumps I've used so far. I've yet to have an AEM fail ever after killing Bosch 044s, Nismo 280s and Walbro 460s over the years. On the blue 32 I have AEM 340lph intank and twin external AEM 400lph on E85 - I recommend them when you need to change a pump 👍

6466 was only ever released as gen 2.

Not really that strange. T4 divided are especially harsh on gaskets with decent power at 800 - 900c degree EGT. I noticed @Full-Race Geoffhas inconel 5 layer T4 divided gaskets that I'd love to run that no one else seems to stock, but the shipping price was ridiculous to Oz. Admittedly when reinstalling with the 60mm inconel 1.5mm flange / 1.25mm turbo side custom M10 ECS studs I did loosen everything off as I noticed the front pipe to turbo v band definitely was misaligned about 5mm downward on the front pipe, which wouldn't have helped with non inconel studs warping. Loosened it all off and got it spot on so no downward pressure was on the turbo from front pipe, so fingers crossed with no more issues or else the inconel gaskets will have to he used as a last resort. I tell you what though - I absolutely HATE Precision T4 turbos ! They perform well, but coming from an HKS T51 with 99mm v band inlet on manifold these turbos suck to remove and install, as the 6466 compressor housing needs to be taken off before you can unbolt the T4 flange. Total pain in the arse and the white 32 with the 6266 is exactly the same, so that's my only complaint with twin scroll T4 Precision 6266 / 6466 turbos, as otherwise have found them completely reliable and awesome at what they do. If I did it again I'd 100% go a Precision stainless steel v band exhaust housing inlet purely for ease of working on them. Anyway car is back together, on E85 and even give it a wash between working on the white 32 GT-R and white 33 GT-R. Car #2 for 2022 RCN08 festival is ready to rock 🤟 Motorkhana with over 600kw at 30+ psi is going to be interesting....🤣 Still need to get my 9sec timeslip one day too if I can drive it properly, as it is proven capable of over 140mph. 20220731_182950.mp4

Yeah mate not wrong ! The carbon plates are $800 - $900 each, a spline hub is about $300, carbon faced steels around $250ish or $130 for standard and pressure plates are upto $200. Pretty much all out of spares now except for a spare GM 28.5mm 26 spline hub. ATS is definitely the best clutch ever for sure 👍 Expensive, but the best hands down.

Who knows. If it doesn't give you any shit then great 👌 You can be the test pilot 👍

Roller spigot, I don't trust them. I use them in the XR6 because that's what they are factory, but in the Nissans I've thought about it, but thought it's completely pointless in the end. I just stick to the good old genuine sintered ones that never give any trouble. I hate to pull a box out just for that if it comes apart. Just a don't fix what's not broken kind of thing really.

Basically it is now. I have 2 ATS triples in the other cars mate and are quite aware of the setups as I've been running them for nearly 15 years. New carbon plate is 3.9mm. To bring back to new a new carbon faced steel plate, new pressure plate, one new carbon plate and new Nissan 24 spline hub went into it. Existing carbon measured at 3.79mm, so essentially new. I already had all this gear except twin pressure plate here, as the ATS carbon twin and triples share everything the same except the pressure plate. 20mm carrier on both twin and triple too.

Needs a wash after hibernation, but otherwise ready to race. 20220731_104751.mp4

It's alive, it's alive !

Dude, I am f**ked up at the moment. Working on 3 GTRs, a WRX, a Ford Territory, working 60 - 80 hours a week on electrical with every second one away from the cars, looking after 2 little girls at 4 and 5 years old and the house shit and a missus that fckn hates me doing anything car related (even though the WRX is basically fckn hers ! - hardly drive it). Oh and had Covid this month for the first time too...... I guess I'm just in superfreak mode at the moment which has been sustained for a while - like 4 years worth. This white car blow up has cost us the best part of a year, so I'm lucky Dad (Lyle) is an awesome performance mechanic and actually fills in the gaps for me a little (lot) bit. I actually hate working on GTRs as they're such a prick of a platform to do anything on. I guess I wouldn't do if they weren't so bloody awesome to drive. That's the key part - I want to get to a point of driving them more than working on them which seems to be the GTR way of life. Anyway, back to it....😖

I have 4 weeks to have to this piece of shit ready and registered for drags and motorkhana on 2nd - 4th September for RCN08. Gearbox, drive shafts and exhaust up. Had a hold up sourcing the correct 20mm bearing carrier for the new ATS twin plate carbon clutch. Also fitted a Nismo chromoly release fork pivot to the box before it went in too. Ordered some fittings and hose to get this fitted to make Johnny @Dose Pipe Sutututu happy.... Need to plumb into sump at the AN4 fitting here below the turbo oil drain in the next week or so

Apexi Power FC is just a full replacement ECU we all used 15 - 20 years ago, allowing boost control, fuel and ignition tuning. They work well if you dont need anything outside of what they can do, and is why that car is still on one. On the single turbo cars with 4 bar MAP sensors, flex fuel, crank triggers and custom sensors I'm on the Haltech Elites. Link G4 will be fine for what you want and will fit in factory location. No you won't NEED a trigger kit even though they are better.

Forgot add decent 3.5 inch exhaust and 100mm intercooler.

. My R33 is 330kw / 450hp at wheels on pump unleaded - completely unopened long engine. Basically fuel pump, 700cc injectors, Z32 AFMs, adjustable cam gears and 22psi boost on the far outdated Power FC with ball bearing HKS GT-SS turbos. (-9 Garrett equivalent) Runs mid 11s at around 118 -120mph and is a motorkhana weapon.

Dont do it, a factory power GTR is shit. No really- it is really, really shit. None of us bought a GTR to run the standard 160 -170kw at the wheel factory power output. GTR comes alive at 300kw at wheels and up, which you me is where they should've been released at.

As I've already mentioned, keep these turbos you NEED to do this. Not optional, need to. For some reason it sounds like you still think you can keep these turbos based around everything else completely factory. Ain't gonna happen

Mate as you already have the -5, just go with them. At least they are new. Go run 1.5bar and report back if you like them