BK

Stupid time consuming R32s... I will start you this month I promise 😄

So while we're going mad trying to get the white 32 happening I also noticed something quite shit on this car - felt what appeared to be an exhaust leak at the turbo. Thought I better pull the turbo off and found this... Not only was the T4 gasket blown, but the rear 2 high tensile GCG studs were bent as. Looks like the high tensile M10 x 1.5 / 1.5mm studs and 3 layer stainless T4 gasket couldn't handle the heat, so in went new custom ECS inconel M10 studs with 1.5mm thread on manifold side and 1.25mm on turbo side with copper lock nuts. Also upgraded to 5 layer stainless divided T4 gasket and changed the damaged compressor housing o ring with a genuine new Precision item. Also pulled 44micron oil feed filter apart for inspection - not a spec of metal to be found. I must say the 6466 Precision is looking pretty good overall though and is very much like new. No evidence of any oil passing, even with peak oil pressure of over 120psi with no oil reg and correctly sized oil drain. As we are fitting a turbo oil reg to the other 32 I might go down that path eventually just as a precaution, but so far has proven not to be a necessity.

So after going away for work for a week I thought we better hook into the white 32 and look at getting the engine in. I came back to this: The old man Lyle got itchy feet while I was away and not only got the engine in by himself, but installed the full oil cooler system, power steering pump, catch can, aircon compressor, twin blitz blow off valves, alternator, all belts and pulleys, intercooler and all pipes, the 6266 turbo, ATS twin plate clutch, front diff and setup, rebuilt clutch master cylinder. Also replaced the Speedflow 602 series 40 micron fuel filter, tig modified the new sump with extra AN10 and AN4 fittings for sump breather and OPRT40 turbo oil reg. I must say it's pretty impressive for a 77 year old...

Instead of a new master you know a genuine RB26 clutch master cylinder rebuild kit is like $50 right ? 99% fixes an issue unless the inner bore is scored to shit. Generally just the plunger seal lets go.

Pick up and baffles in, pinion setup and fitted (took 6 thou out of clearance) and sump on with Threebond 1207C 👍

And will still do f**k all in reality. Do you still have stock unmodified turbo manifolds ? Or even worse stock dump pipe / turbo elbows? If it is a yes to either there is much more to be gained in this area in overall performance than a minor perceived intake imbalance.

In theory sounds plausible. Real world will do 2 tenths of f**k all. You can't really engineer around fundamentally poor turbo setups. I learnt the hard way with the HKS T51 and more recently the Trust T78 - both garbage.

Boom - bloody awesome ! Nissan actually grew a brain ! Might need to get a couple as they should never have been plastic. Interesting that the S15 of the same 1999 - 2002 vintage was still plastic. It looked a better material and was black, but still plastic.

I dunno, make me an offer I can't refuse. It's this one for $850 from Golebys, they use Exedy covers and pressure plate. https://www.golebysparts.com.au/collections/npc-performance-clutches/products/rb20-rb25-rb26-npc-heavy-duty-button-push-style-clutch-kit Edit : hang on, are you in the US ? Thought it was a Brisbane postcode, but now that looks like Fort Knox. I can still do it but a clutch to the US will be about $100 - $150. I'll send you a PM

I'm confused as to why Joshua posted these results - to justify his purchase of these shit turbos, with shit results ?

I have an NPC push sprung centre ceramic single for sale now from the white 32 that holds over 400kw if you want.

Has anyone got an R32 left kick panel ? Also after the boot trim left side tool and wheel jack flap cover which I cannot find anywhere.

Yep I freak out at stuff I've thrown away or sold for nothing in the last 15 - 20 years. Even complete cars - the last 2 GTR I sold for $17k and $25k....🤦

We're setting the backlash. "Shouldn't" need to change it as the same front centre, crown wheel and pinion are going back in that came out of it but we will see.

Well, after a 20 week wait..... Hi Octane finally finished the sump so engine can go back in.

Definitely M4

I think I threw my broken part away after failed attempt at using epoxy to fix.

Get a metallic one made up if possible- maybe someone like FPG will make it into a production part and I'll grab at least 3. Since you've got an R34 cable coming, are you going to swap the mechanism to the 32 cable or see if the entire 34 cable assembly does infact fit the 32 ? This would be good to confirm - It probably might as I suspect the 34 cable will be slightly longer but still fit. The S15 cable I got which was the cheaper way to go was way too short even for a 32, but only bought for the mech assembly anyway as you'll generally never snap the actual cable.

How do you know this for sure ? As in, how do you know you haven't blown a head gasket, cracked a block or cracked a head ? These things generally happen in my experience before a head "lifts".

So you sorted for an indicator loom then ? I have one used spare loom with globe holders left if needed. I take it you've broken the thread on the fuel flap release mechanism- as in this part ? Broke the same thing on the white 32 last year - snapped in half. The mechanism parts are not available separately except for the lock ring, and is only available as part of a complete cable. What I did find out though is that this release mechanism is the same between all fuel / boot release cables for coupe R32 - R34 Skylines and hardtop S13 - S15 Silvia's and is interchangeable. Nothing else from Nissan seems to use the same mechanism because of the combined fuel and boot release on one cable. R32, R33 are discontinued but S15 and R34 cables are still available new, so to fix I obtained an S15 cable and swapped the mechanism onto the 32 cable as all the cable lengths are different. I found that the S15 appeared to be made out of a different plastic compared to the older 32/33 ones and is hopefully more durable. Should never have been made out of plastic in the first place.

What diff oil you running ? Needs to be 75w-140 or this will always happen eventually.

That sucks man about the E85 situation. So this is no go then ? https://e85.co.nz/ I live 1500km away from my closest E85 on pump in either Darwin or Adelaide and have to buy it by the drum most of the time, so I know about the pain it causes sourcing it. Everytime I'm in SA I bring back at least 2 x 60 litre drums. That said it is definitely worth it when needed for Motorsport applications because it's so much more cost effective than unleaded race fuels like Sunoco or VP From your comments you appear to not understand how flex fuel tuning works. Neither of the above is true or a problem when running ethanol as a flex fuel setup with ethanol content sensor. You tune the car to compensate boost, timing and AFRs to any ethanol mixture between 0 and 85% (or higher if available). This is really the only way to go unless the car is a dedicated track car on E85 only, so you can run any combination of unleaded and E85 (any blend in between). No changing tunes, no draining tanks for different fuels and no complicated WMI to fill up or fail. Only E85 out of a drum is anywhere close to 85% ethanol content - on pump it is generally lucky to be 70 - 75% and obviously less when adding to existing in tank unleaded. This doesn't matter as the advantage of the anti knock properties of ethanol (and therefore power gain) above say 65% - 70% is negligible, so anything above 60 - 65% is generally your full boost and timing advance ceiling region anyway. Just in the event it is actually easier to obtain soon I'd still look into at least flex fuel ready setting up your system, even if you can only obtain it irregularly. Fingers crossed for Racefuels in NZ for you guys. Edit: Seen the E85 from Racefuels has started shipping again to NZ in the last 2 weeks from Melbourne, so hopefully they keep the supply up.

Hit and miss how ? You can buy it by the drum in NZ yes ? Surely this would still be the preferred option using E85 purely for your motorsport applications over water / meth injection

Hi mate. Front diff centre only, not with crown wheel and diff pinion so you can fit whatever crown wheel ratio you want to it. I have 1 spare set of 4.11 front crown wheel and pinion but keeping it as they are worth a fortune now and have broken them before.

Now I get the comment 😄