BK

Why do you seem to think you know much more than the people like Jim at Nitto doing their very in depth engineering and development outcomes ?

Nittos 2.8 like mine runs the standard 121.5mm rb26 conrod length with custom piston pin height with the 77.7mm crankshaft.

Yeah on the strip they're OK, you can squeeze a 10 out of them on pump fuel.

And -5's are pretty laggy on the street with a 2.6 which is why -7 and -9 exist.

So you bought -5 turbos, no grey zone about it. Pretty far from standard size turbos, as now at a minimum you'll need bigger fuel pump, bigger injectors and completely retune the car obviously with a non standard ECU.

This was on my blue 32 all those failures, the current block has been in for 4 years now and is good so far after CRD did the offset rebore to 87mm. The white 32 has just been rebuilt and is already back in the car as of a couple of weeks ago - it stuffed a crank but didn't crack the block. Infact I just got the gearbox back in as we speak..

Grout filling not entirely convinced in its effectiveness, but sleeving definitely raises the blocks power potential for sure.

Your crazy ! Motocross after 40 - yeah / nah. I'd hate to have a bike injury at this age ! My broken arms and shoulder still give me shit. Sort of getting things done. Just come off covid so that kinda stuffed everything up. I like the setup above, very cool. I still use adapter brackets on a floor jack for the box work, so will try and get the white 32s box in today.

So your keeping it then ?

To be fair you cracked the block while using and blowing a standard head gasket with 25 -30psi of boost, hardly surprising. I've mentioned I've cracked 3 over the years and others haven't, so let's see how long it takes to crack the current one with the 6466 at over 600kw. One more cracked block and I'll entertain the billet block idea possibly. How long until your cars running with the new bling bling engine block Brett ?

Havent had an engine failure before ? 14 years of what use and power levels ? it's easy to make engines live longer without motorsport use or lower power levels. My r33, it still has the original 27 year old block after 18 years at 330rwkw and motorsport use. Grout filling, bracing and sleeving are all ways that are to try and improve reliability when leaning on engines for power, but thats all under the assumption that nothing else fails at any point that could upset the rotating assembly. With all that done if something else happens that can cause bad harmonics, cracking a block is still on the cards. I will say every engine failure I've had has always been down to an external influence failure rather than a block just cracking from too much power. First block failure was due to a failed standard harmonic balancer delaminating internally - cracked the block and crank. Was original block in car, but grout filled. Second was detonation due to fuel starvation from failed pumps. Stuffed the pistons too - this block was sleeved, no grout. Third from oil starvation from Trust sump being too small and also damaging my first Nitto 2.8 crankshaft - not sleeved or grouted. All of these failures are at over 500kw at wheels and 9k rpm at the strip, all from getting the rotating assembly out of whack. I guess my point is that you can break anything if the wrong things happen, even with precautions like sleeving and grouting. Nothing is 100% reliable - everything can be broken and I can accept that.

New 05U blocks have been in the $3k - $4k region as far as I can remember. Yes they do, but those of us that have been around for awhile are definitely not on the original block that came with the car. My blue 32 is on new 05U block number 3 (thanks just jap).

Yeah it's an awesome concept they've done at Bullet. The chunky 4 bolt main cap design is very impressive as it effectively braces against the outer edges of the already much more rigid block.

MoTeC M1

Both are valid and have their place. To me a billet aluminium block GTR especially with a dry sump is a line being crossed that is race car over street car, as so much needs to fundamentally change under bonnet.

Same deal with using Tomei type B rubbish - floated worse than stock springs. Similar fix too, Supertech Dual springs, titanium retainers and Tomei cam cap studs - still standard 26 valves though as they are one part that gets changed a lot for absolutely no reason.

Even Xforce is no good. On our white 32 it's a true custom 3.5 inch system with an Xforce 3.5inch muffler, and it still steps down (not as bad as Jap stuff) inside to about 70mm - 75mm ! Needs to go... My blue 32 has a true AES 4 inch internal muffler - I can stick my arm through it ! Interestly though on my 33 the HKS old school Hi Power muffler is 95mm internally, but the restriction at around 70mm was at the now deleted resonator. Moral of story is as you said - go custom.

From memory wasn't your Tomei muffler about 60mm inside ?

I have a basically new lower timing belt cover if you want

I think you'll find the muffler is the ridiculously big restriction right @Piggaz Also stock valves and shims are fine, but smaller base circle cams mean different lifters so you don't run too thick shims. Also you cannot use standard rad fan with a Ross race or gold damper and A/C relocation - you need to use the Metal Jacket to retain factory fan and no a/c relocation. I tested and measured this for Ross on the 33 (same as 34) and 32 - it moves the belt forward 25mm and you only have about 12mm - 15mm to play with, so no go. Just run the current metal jacket damper, I do - it will suffice for your power levels.

Is it one of the 100 UK Middlehurst R33s ? Show the car

Do you have a race meeting coming up or something ?

Didn't read my post above ? I run one and posted the results for you, so that would be a yes I recommend - will not disappoint.

Why the T51 mod ? Anyway I beams all the way in both of our 32s, but arguably just or more important is the fasteners. The 2.8 has ARP2000 3/8" rod bolts and 2.6 runs the highly recommended 7/16" bolts in ARP2000 which weren't a thing when we did the 2.8 on a 26 conrod (only RB30 at the time). Nitto and Spool now do 7/16" RB26 121.5mm capable conrods, so price not a concern - ARP CA625+ 7/16" is the shit 👌

My 32 with the 6466 On the other 32 we've gone the 6266 T4 with 0.84 a/r