BK

Thats gold ! Jesus christ Duncan, how in the hell could you possibly do that ?! That would've made a mess, the only way that could happen is the transfer had to have literally locked up and stop rotating to snap a chain ! There's no way you're breaking one under any normal operation, even with mega power. Still said it could be transfer as you don't know without inspection, but if it is, it has been caused by what was mentioned. There's some good pics on SAU of a couple of people ripping the friction material clean off, but that is not a common occurrence.

You mean in right ? Out raises the idle speed.

Look I'm not saying I'm telling you exactly where it is, but you'd have to have done something pretty serious for it to be the transfer. It still might be, but the front crown wheel and pinion worn out or the front pinion bearing are more likely to cause grief before the transfer. The transfer case internals are pretty over engineered, and had quite a few down for modification before. There are 19 plates inside the clutch - 7 friction and 12 steels in the factory configuration all at a thickness of 2.0mm. I've never ever seen a steel wear out personally and any friction plate wear I've seen has been always been no more than 0.05mm. Regarding the chain, it is one heavy duty mofo. Definitely seen differences in chain stretch between cases but nothing that was out of factory tolerances - you absolutely would never break one normally. The only time I've heard of a transfer case friction plate wear out is for 3 reasons - incorrect assembly, no fluid / wrong fluid type used or the most common when torque split controllers are used. Too much torque sent to the front for too long seems to definety kill the friction plates, as the setup was never designed to run with full time 4WD. In this case there are some well documented cases where people have ripped the oeganic friction material clean off the friction plate. Only way this generally happens is from the plate being dry with no fluid, but can happen from prolonged front torque in scenarios where there should be no front torque applied. 1.8 litres of dex III ATF is usually the minimum, but full synthetic ATF like Castrol Transmax Z is a better choice for minimising plate wear. So unless you've been running the transfer dry / low on oil or using a torque split controller set very aggressively there should be no reason for the transfer clutch plates to fail. Which comes back to the fluids used - what do you use in the drivetrain sections ? The front diff crown wheel and pinion will wear out eventually with a light oil, even with moderate power levels. The pinion bearing can even just randomly fail over time - It's a lot easier inspect the front diff than it is to remove and completely dissemble the transfer case for inspection, so go have a look there first. I suggest you go for a drive without the front shaft in for a start and see if it goes away.

I highly doubt it is going to be the transfer case actually.

That's because you can't get the good one in Japan, being Syntrans 75w-85 GL-4. To be honest there's nothing wrong with vmx full time, just change it more regularly. One of the Rs we're just sticking with that - VMX-M gl-4 at $50 per 4 litres.

Lotta plates in there - 19 to be exact between the pressure plates all at 2.0mm thick. Doesn't take much wear across that many plates to cause an issues. That said I had a problem like this about 10 - 12 years ago in the blue 32. Same thing, developed a noise under load somewhere that we couldn't pinpoint for ages. On a clutch change we found it by accident when on the hoist - completely stuffed front diff crown wheel and pinion. Happens eventually to most GTR when running the quite ridiculous standard 80w-90 weight front diff oil recommendation, as it causes quite a bit of wear over time.

How'd you go with the diffs ? I run Quaife front and rear in the 32 and did the 31 spline rear stub axle upgrade with new ones when they were available. For the front just get the ATS or Quaife direct fit front centre. If you have your heart set on a 31 spline only diff for the rear like the Quaife or OS giken, the driveshaft shop does 31 spline full stub to hub driveshaft axle replacements. Failing that for the 31 spline stub axle, you can still obtain them frequently on Yahoo auctions, but they are discontinued new now. I helped locate a couple of sets last year.

Castrol VMX or VMX-M mineral oil

Don't get too excited though as the Sportsman gen2 7675 rear housing don't fit the more common gen2 7675HP. The Gen2 CEA 6875, 7275 or 7675 all share the exact same 75mm turbine wheel (82mm inducer, 75.08mm exducer) and fit turbine housing group E. Other housings for different turbines include 62mm CEA - turbine group B, 66mm CEA - turbine group C, 70mm CEA - turbine group D, Promod - turbine group F. Turbine groups B, C and D all have divided T4 housings available - turbine group E or F does not, so Brett is kinda sorta right when referencing turbos you'd actually use. The Sportsman 7675 has a completely unique 82mm inducer 84 trim turbine wheel (which would have a bigger 75.16mm exducer according to my calculations) and unique internally bigger housing for itself, with a bigger exhaust discharge meant for 4 inch exhausts.

They do. The Sportsman versions of the gen2 7675 and 7685 are available in divided T4 housings. Even the 8385 and 8685 has them available in T4 divided.

Try something like the photo or scan translate apps like Google word lens, iTranslate or Photo translator as mentioned above. They work pretty well most of the time. On another note I'm not quite sure exactly why restoring to the exact Japanese specification is so important to you, as just the sum of "x" parts does not equal "y" results. Even if you manage to get it to 100% of what the parts spec was does not mean you will restore any actual performance problems with the car. It sounds like you have some fundamental mechanical or maintenance issues to deal with first, and is more likely the cause of your deterioration of performance. Parts available have changed a lot in the last 10 years and most of the good stuff is not Japanese anymore.

Could be onto something there

Shit you're right ! 47210-05U01 is the correct part for the 32R and is definitely discontinued and still not available from Nismo heritage. Got a feeling they're not going to be compatible between 32 and 33, so a used one will probably be the only option. Can confirm that the booster studs spacing into firewall are the same between 32 and 33 though. 33 one is definitely discontinued too.

I mentioned this in the other thread and this is absolutely the case. The Nismo slave cylinders I will say again, are pure shit. I have used both Nismo pull and push and the travel reduction is quite significant, especially in the push version. I know the clutch here is a single, but on a side note Nismo does acknowledge this though and has a comment on their catalogue to never use them on multiplate clutches. Funny that as its usually the singles that require more travel...

Brake booster part is 47210-05U04. Availability status is a bit of an unknown, as Amayama lists as out of production but Nengun and JP car parts list as still available. I would say still available as Nismo heritage has not released the brake booster in their line-up. Failing that there's heaps available secondhand around.

Modified transfer case - SOLD

Yep same - gives a better bore stroke ratio on a stroker. One thing I am envious of though is the 7/16" rod bolts in the Spool I beam rods, as the Nitto 2.7 / 2.8 strokers are 3/8" but the 3.2 / 3.4 come with 7/16". We're using the Spool 7/16" bolt I beams in the 2.6.

We're biased though😄

Absolutely, posted just as I was writing this. I'd never use a second hand oem damper, especially one that is 25+ years old. You can't know the integrity of it as you can't see inside it. What happens is the bonding material goes super hard then they just eventually destroy themselves and fly apart - this has happened to me about 10 years ago with my oem one and it destroyed everything, like I mean cracked the block and cracked the crank in multiple areas everything.

So you finally got the Albins sorted out ?

So, what is the original carrier ? 14mm, 16mm, 18mm ? Have you checked with ACS in Adelaide that the carrier you have is the correct one for your clutch ?

Jp car parts, they are excellent. https://jp-carparts.com/

That's right and Nismo slave reduces this movement for a start, so unless you can change the stroke via clutch pedal movement theres not a lot you can do. Being a pull clutch there's really no way to change it at the release bearing end or release fork hinge point - everything is at a fixed distance. You can't change bearing carrier lengths or pivot fork heights like you can in a push setup to correct problems like this. Have used a custom longer rod at pull slave cylinder once before, but again was to temporarily get around the incorrect clutch as you shouldn't have to do that. On another note, being an FJ the clutch would surely have to be custom height too when using a pull setup, and not a Skyline based pull clutch (assuming, as no clutch type was stated) as I can't see it being the same. I must have misread initially though as my comments regarding the gearbox were more aimed as interpreting the car creeping while in neutral using the clutch, as I don't think thats what was meant.

I've heard of them, never used them. They seem to be a very cheap standard replacement type bearing and are available for nearly every engine out there. I've only ever used tri-metal bearings, being either the ACL race series or King XP. King is expensive, but the ACL race series bearings are well priced for what they, are and is why most people use and recommend them.

Does sound very strange. Your "fully rebuilt" gearbox could've been stuffed up on the rebuild and it's hanging onto the synchro baulk rings which means it's not fully deselecting the gear engagement. Could also be a selector problem. If either is case the problem is within the gearbox Could also be just very tight synchro engagement and will go away once worn in. One thing I would be doing for a start is getting rid of that Nismo big bore slave cylinder and going back to the standard one, as the smaller bore Nissan pull slave has more travel than the Nismo - been there, done that years ago. The Nismo slave cylinders push or pull are pure shit because of their shorter stroke length and only cause problems.