BK

Well you definitely have ground clearance with that. Used to think this was on the great on the 32, but it seems a completely pointless modification now Too low, not swing gated and really doesn't add enough extra capacity for the effort and cost.

The Hi octane one is not supposed to be too much lower than the crossmember at all. I've had a Trust one and they are stupid low. Not sure I really like that design above TBH compared to a Hi Octane or Lewis one, and the Tomei baffle kit is not as good as a swing gated sump baffle with their rubber flaps. We're getting the Hi Octane cast version with the 3 swing gate baffle design as part of the sump pan, which is still going to be about a 6 week turn around time from Hi octane themselves doing the fabrication. I have the Lewis engines 8.5 - 9L fabricated sump on my blue 32. Easily gets the front diff centre out and is pretty much level with the cross member. Has the 4 swing gated baffle design using the stock top baffle plate which is far, far better to the Trust or Tomei baffle setups. I'd get another one as I actually think his is the superior overall design to anyone else and reasonably priced - but Darren takes ages, doesn't answer his phone and hardly replies to emails so getting one is a full on mission. My last sump from Darren was nearly a six month wait, but it is good and he is very good at what he does.

Different than 33 GTR right ? Also try JP car parts for stuff. They've sourced things for me Amayama hasn't been able to get or said was discontinued.

Block is fine and will be reused, just needs a proper oil gallery clean out. Knocked out the 2 front and rear oil gallery plugs yesterday, tapped the block and converted them 1/4 NPT grub screws. Hopefully get the sump away to Hi octane today to be modified and already pulled down the Nitto pump and cleaned it out / replaced backing plate screws. Still aiming for mid year back on road.

Another fix for something that was bugging me on this car ever since we got it - the RH front indicator. Some genius decided to stick an R32 GTSt indicator in it at some stage. Don't do this as the fitment is terrible - it makes the indicator inner edge protrude about 10mm too far forward compared to the headlight, as they are not the same shape as a GTR housing. Not to mention the orange colour is also completely different on a GTR one - the GTR one is a lot lighter. For comparison, zoom in: Existing white 32 with wrong gts indicator: My blue 32 with correct GTR indicator: Just Jap to the rescue with an actual new discontinued original Nissan, not Nismo heritage, full GTR indicator with wiring harness. The Nismo one now only comes without wiring, as the harness is discontinued completely now with no replacement. Gts vs GTR

Yeah stockers can be found at a half ok price nowadays. Funny that Amayama still want about $230 a coilpack, which is just silly. http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/coil-pack-individual-suit-nissan-skyline-gts25-gts25-gts25-p-1150.html

Realistically if you can't do anything yourself ? $5k + for the geaset to obtain, plus the $1500+ for centre plate, plus the $2k at least for labour to assemble gearset, plus the shipping up to $500 either way to whoever builds it. Additional $1000 if you have an older pre 97 box to upgrade the Nissan synchro parts. Plus the $1000 for whoever pulls the gearbox out and puts it back in the car. Plus 4 litres of oil depending on what you use at $50 - $300. Plus spigot and release bearings if required and plus any other random stuff that needs doing - bleed clutch, master rebuild or replace etc. In reality it's a $10k + box installed for the average joe.

Personally I don't see splitfires as an upgrade over OEM coils at all. R35 coils will work fine at factory dwell settings too. OEM or jump straight to VR38 coils. FYI we run oem, splitfire and VR38 R35 coilpacks across 3 GTRs. On the 33 we actually removed the splitfire coils and went back to OEM as their was no improvement at all.

Might need to switch it then. From what I've seen the Haltech, VDO, Continental, AC delco and GM ones with the 3 mounting holes measure fuel temp - they all seem to be the same thing if it looks like this. I have a genuine Haltech one on the blue 32 and the white 32 has a VDO one with shorter pipes but same body; If it is like this below I'm not sure - probably doesn't but I have no experience with them to confirm:

FU dead crank and bearings.

You have flex sensor on an spi yes ? Fuel temp is incorporated into that - no avi required.

Same. Don't have Emap but have Exhaust temp.

Remember to use your old afm inputs if you haven't already - there is another 2 AVIs doing nothing otherwise.

Brypar, and nearly $6k !

Quick. I'm getting stuff out of Japan from them quicker than the east coast at the moment from like Just jap, Golebys etc.

As your HKS standard gate has no spring preload adjustment on it, I'd say you want the purple spring as it should be about 1.1 bar fitted being that's minimum on the adjustable version Available springs from RHDjapan attached, although HKS themselves say only the yellow and purple springs are available now and that the original standard gate spring selection is discontinued. https://www.rhdjapan.com/search/brands/hks/category/turbo-and-na-systems/?q=Spring

While the other 32 in pieces again for the motor rebuild I thought I'd do another job I've been putting off for a while. Big long extensions and the modified 3" socket definitely is the only way to do this on a 32 without dropping the rear sub frame. Tools required: Done.

I dunno, It only needs stave for a split second at over 5000rpm though. I actually also put my blue 32 past failures down mainly to undersized sumps with the Nitto pump. Used to run a Trust sump which is about 6.5 litre, and my first 2.8 Nitto stroker on that lasted under 1000km. Again, let go at high rpm. Add Lewis engines sump with same bottom end setup - all oil problems gone. Granted I believe we were running too tight on the oil clearances too as my current 2.8 is built much looser ie. bigger clearances for more power.

Already added the failure to that thread Duncan. Head has 1.1mm oil supply restrictor in block, Tomei sump baffle at oil pickup, modified enlarged sump oil return holes, Franklin engineering AN10 rear head drain/breather to unused rear turbo oil drain, twin AN10 rocker cover breathers to catch can with separate AN10 sump return and an HKS 13 row oil cooler with 70deg thermostat filter relocation. Full engine specs that we rebuilt to: RB26 05U block - machined to 86.5mm bore Stock long nose 26 crank balanced and reground ACL race series main bearings - 0.5mm undersize ACL race series big end bearings - 0.25mm undersize ARP 2000 main studs Spool forged I beam conrods with ARP 2000 7/16" rod bolts CP 86.5mm forged pistons / rings 9.0 CR Nitto 1.1mm block oil feed restrictor Nitto oil pump R32 GTR 05U water pump 8 blade Tomei sump baffle kit in standard sump Tomei 1.2mm head gasket ARP 2000 head studs Supertech Viton valve stem seals Supertech single valve springs with titanium retainers New OEM RB26 valve guides, valves and lifters OEM camshaft bolts Franklin engineering AN10 head drain / breather kit Stock 05U RB26 camshafts with Tomei adjustable cam gears Complete block clean out and all block plugs replaced. Crank was reground as car had spun bearing when we got it. Oil clearances were pretty tight from memory at under 0.03mm on mains which I remember from the old man's plastigauge. Remember this car did 2500km including the 1500km to Adelaide drive and was going well until on dyno. It was on about the 3rd run on the Morpowa hub when it just let go - and it let go around 6500rpm as Simon was logging it all. It really just ran out of oil. One thing I saw was the oil pump was infact set still with the dual springs, meaning 120psi. Remember this happened right after setting my 2.8 blue 32 up, which copped a hiding on the dyno and handled it fine. Main difference between the two oil setup wise is really the fact I have a Lewis engines 8.5+ litre sump. Has same pump, restrictor and head return to sump. These Nitto pumps are no joke with their flow and pressure. When cold I couldn't believe there was no audible knock and oil pressure after the carnage we've seen on disassembly. Only at operating temperature could you hear it when oil heated up and pressure went down, that's when it would barely hold 15psi hot idle pressure. At the end of the day it's ok, we fix. Get to change a couple of things in the process. Hi octane sump is going on this time and the Trust T78-29D is getting swapped for Precision ball bearing 6266 with 0.84 a/r which should be here next week.

Deep down you knew it was a bad idea not to run a bigger sump with the Nitto, or else you wouldn't have put a 9 litre sump on the other car. You just had to talk yourself into it didnt ya ? Geez... 100%, no 1000%. Never, never, EVER use a Nitto pump without a big, big sump. Never, Ever. Shouldn't be able to buy one without proof of at least 8 litres of oil capacity 😄

Ok after much analysis, complete oil starvation killed this bottom end. Crank is completely fcked, especially no. 1 journal. Bearing are comical to look at, although the rods look ok. Stock sump with Nitto pump is definitely suspected as the cause, which to be honest was my first thought on the dyno. I need to sit down and have a stern talking to myself 😤

Nah the rhd one is round - have a good look at all the pictures again - it is curved and just a bit wrinkled up. It'll take shape when installing.

Good work, you owe me a carton 😄 That gate diaphragm is exactly the one I linked you to from RHDjapan, so around $150. HKS part 1499-RA057

👍 Just be careful when you pull the gate apart - remember big spring in there that can send the cover into your face if it flies apart without keeping it compressed on disassembly.

Do the bottom port test again off car to confirm it definitely passes to the top port, therefore being faulty. If it's got a split diaphragm it'll be obvious when disassembled with a tear in it - It's about the only thing that really fails on them.