BK

It's out again

Correction on chassis number, BNR32-002605. I confused it with my 33 GTR being BCNR33-002155.

Really ?! BNR32 - 002155 ? I absolutely will contact you - you can PM me your phone if you want me to call you. I bought it from a dude named John in Adelaide in 2008 with the HKS turbo on it. Before that I can see that it had been engineered in the ACT and that Jake's performance there did a forged rebuild on it with Arias pistons and Crower rods around 2006 or 2007. Some major headwork appears also to have been done over in Japan before import. The car is a completely different thing now, even to when I bought it as I have actually lost count of the engines and gearboxes this thing has had since being in my possession.

Just a question, but why did you leave without it ? You paid for it right ? - so demand it. Maybe they didn't save it and now giving you the run around. I know they can't just email it off of the dyno in a pdf direct, as it'll be in a raw format that needs the mainline dyno software to convert it. They need to print it to pdf or print and scan then email, so really they're just being lasy unless they don't have the file.

Tap the crank ?! The thing that should bother you is the fact you want to weaken the crank to use a stronger bolt. Platinum racing on their US site have an M16 ARP bolt that is compatible with RB30. https://platinumracingproducts.com/products/arp-fasteners-nissan-rb25-rb30-harmonic-balancer-bolt

Did you snap the fuel release mechanism part or cable ? I did this last year on the 32 breaking the fuel release part. The cable with fuel release mechanism part is discontinued except for R34 and S15. If it's the fuel release part you need, the s13 to s15 and and r32 to r34 all use the same mechanism, just different length cables between models. I bought an S15 one purely for the fuel release part to fit onto existing 32 cable, as it's almost impossible to source a BNR32 one now.

Could try it maybe, but it does appear that the R35 coilpack setup has always felt like the standard jic length, which is the correct ones for RBs, is the culprit. Comparing to stock or splitfires it's definitely more noticeably tight with R35 coilpacks with a BCPR type jic plug. I'm pretty sure that's the reason @burn4005 is using the iso length instead of the jic as that 3mm shorter plug makes them fit the coil a bit nicer. It's not that bad really, I'm just a bit pedantic and notice these types of things. The important thing is these plugs definitely are the best in the business.

Yes that's exactly what I use on the 2.8. Having said that the plugs really jam into the R35 coilpacks hard - so much so that when you remove them the stalks usually come away from coilpack and get stuck on the plug which is totally annoying, requiring the entire one piece coil bracket to be removed to retrieve them. This is using the Godzilla motorsports bracket with R35 coils, so a PRP bracket might not have this problem if the spacing to plug is slightly higher. The iso shorter length appears it would be a better fit I believe than the longer jic length but am yet to confirm this.

4R = non ball bearing T04Z 5R = non ball bearing T51R So buy neither.

Yes - The NGK R racing plugs have iridium or platinum ground electrodes with a much higher melting point vs the iridium ix plugs having an iridium centre and nickel ground, so if you value your engine on a big dollar build you will run nothing else. A big detonation event or lean out and there goes your ground electrode through your cylinder. Also they are available in colder heat ranges like 8 and 9 and have a concealed centre electrode which is helpful for large boost applications. I personally have blown tips off the ix iridium plugs destroying my engine before and refuse to use anything else in a 400kw + engine now.

As Duncan said there is something more likely fundamentally wrong with the setup, as the big power usually destroys the crown wheel and pinion not the centres. You have nowhere near enough power to break a centre so it definitely points to something else, like possibly never actually disengaging the front torque. If everything mechanically checks out, it's really the only thing as they are not designed for constant use. Maybe you have just been unlucky

As pointed out metric is really pascal in pressure. Kg/cm2 about as useful as measuring power in PS, and possibly HP for that matter instead of watts.

Anything from Japan, but yes I know right ? I just see that measurement and instantly see it as bar, as its close enough to the same thing Also wanted to see if there was any acknowledgement of the fact of having no idea what the oil pressure is in this situation reading the factory gauge, as your not having 8bar cold idle or 4bar hot idle in reality are you ?

I take it that's from the extremely inaccurate factory gauge ?

Just missed this from Melbourne. I'd give em a call as I've just walked in there before and they've had stuff not listed. https://jpjdm.com/shop/index.php?id_product=2461&rewrite=nissan-skyline-r32-passengers-window-switch-&controller=product

My 6466 on the 32 is 450kw/600hp + on 98 at 22-23psi. It's massively faster than the old T51 was at 29psi on 98 ron at over 520kw at wheels, and is safer in the knock department. You can definitely make 700, 800, 900hp on 98 at up to 30psi - but how safely ? The Precision 7685 is a massively, MASSIVELY more power productive turbo than a T51. You're going to reach that damaging knock point earlier at comparative power as cylinder pressures will be higher comparing pound for pound of boost.

Motor sounds like it has a bottom end knock as mysteriously eluded to - especially first video. @Duncan has been very polite, and I commend you on your restraint there mate 😄, I won't be - It's fcked.... Noises like that don't get any better or go away by themselves. If in doubt - engine out.

Remember with E85 it's potentially an 8 second car though 👍

Door rubbers are still available new at about $300 a side. So are the front windows inner and outer trims. The weather strip retainers are too - for about $1200 + a side ! Discontinued original part number is 80960-01U00 - only chance new is via Yahoo auctions Japan. Only realistic way you'll get that switch trim is to find someone selling a used switch with it.

One of the best from Adelaide

Yeah but a 7685 on 15psi on 98 real world? My opinion ? Car will be still mostly asleep until 6000rpm even on a 3.2. With that turbo on low boost it'll be chopped on the street by a Yaris. Not a GR, a normal Yaris. This is a 1300hp + at wheels turbo - low boost and 98 is going to be shit. Not trying to shit on such an expensive combo but this setup is all about the top end and nothing else. It is never going to be a well rounded package. Still keen to see the actual outcome though - It needs E85

Sorry didn't read the above ^ Correct, RB26 is clockwise. Nope. Physically externally the same but with a counter clockwise instead of clockwise rotation. Automatic ADM R31 / VL RB30 TPS. I think I now need glasses...

Gktech one ? I think I'll go a poly one one the white 32 and a billet one in the blue 32. Crank arrived by the way, thanks again dude !

FFS, Are you kidding me ?!!!!! They shoved the vacuum line onto the throttle return spring retainer rod didn't they - in the top left. Correct ??? Was they actually you ? 😁 Always good when fixes are easy and just stupid shit.

Standard oil pressures for RBs from 33 manual: Definitely appears low and doesn't install confidence, but stock oil pump hot pressures of about 15 psi on an RB0/25 or above 22psi on a 26 are normal at idle. If you had a non standard oil pump its definitely a concern - our white 32 RB26 with tight bearing clearances has 15psi hot idle pressure with a Nitto pump. (not good) As mentioned you really need to ask the engine builder on what bearing clearances were set as large clearances reduce oil pressure. If clearances are larger like used for bigger power applications, larger pressure / volume oil pumps are fitted to compensate for this. Tread with caution as your higher rpm oil pressures are more concerning.