BK

I mean go for it if you feel like starting with a brand new box with the updated and more reliable 3rd/4th synchro setup. Your wiring noise just sounds like how they become after the gear mesh wears over time, not necessarily any particular worn bearing.

No, but yes. Yes improved on synchromesh design, not on geaset. Not really significantly any better, and definitely not any stronger. It's like having a series 3 GTR box synchro wise. Read page 2 of this, I break it down.

Yeah fair enough, but I bet there is a high chance to unstlck them and they will not be compromised. I know Bosch and ID actually recommend you to submerge them in fuel when in storage to prevent this (not that I've ever done or seen anyone do that). I have the same EV14 1550cc in the blue 32, but Denso EV1 700cc and 1000cc in the other two - all stuck even from 98. It's just weird when they do that after sitting and sticking because everytime I've sent them away, (to Adelaide mind you, not just down the road) they clean them first, then flow test them - and then EVERYTIME report there's nothing bloody wrong with them ! Grrr ! It just seems to stick them, not damage them and is completely random. I've had my 33 sit for 2 years without starting it before and not stick. Water getting into fuel and damaging fuel pumps is more likely - I think I'm on my 4th Nismo pump in the 33 in 18 years as they do fail from sitting.

As long as it wasn't this one in 75w-85 your good.

Same here, had this happen across all the GTRs with 700, 1000 and 1550cc types. Are you sure they are infact seized or just stuck ? How long were they cleaned for ? I have had all different sets injectors which once cleaned for 30mins + unstuck themselves. Sent them to be ultrasonically cleaned and tested and they come back pulsing and flowing fine. You have the Bosch EV14 1550cc yeah ?

Nah should be spot on 👍 Your box is new yes ? It will shed a fair bit from new, a balance problem wouldn't have had an influence on gear to gear mesh, which is where most if the material comes from. Change intervals ? Change it in a year and see what it looks like. When new a good 500 -1000km first oil drop is generally the go.

You beat me to it while I was typing this. Regarding mineral, Duncan mentioned somewhere in another thread about Terry at Award diff and gearbox recommending mineral with more frequent changes. I can definitely see the merit in that, getting rid of any excess metal in the box frequently. The same recommendation of changing gear oil after every event is for the same reason in dog engagement transmissions, to purge the metal shavings, regardless of oil type used. Obviously dog boxes shed more metal that synchro boxes but idea is the same for prevention of gear pitting and whatnot. The main advantage of using synthetic is the higher operating temperature break down point of lubrication, leading to longer interval changes which can be good or bad depending on how frequently you change transmissions oil. We generally break in / flush the synchro boxes with Castrol VMX-M mineral. Actually in our white 32 it still has it in it after 2500km including a 1500km drive to Adelaide on a rebuilt box and the shift quality is excellent. You mean If so I hope it's this one Not this one, it's GL-5 I wanted to both like and laugh at that one 😄

Not the whole lot as Xclutch and NPC are Australian. Also RHDjapan will beat Nengun on delivered price everytime if ordering from Japan - check them out.

Right, that clears things up a bit as I was under the impression Selby's just expanded and turned into Whiteline.

Hmm... take it the obvious path of contacting Whiteline about a custom swaybar has been tried and is a no go ?

Definitely agree the Nismo coppermix twin range drives very nicely and is more than enough for a lot of people's needs. We do have better singles available locally here than the UK though. NPC and Xclutch have singles that will happily take 400kw + at the wheels, which is why I find it ridiculous with OS giken single and twin clutches and how piss weak they are. This is mainly down to having a very light clamping load with their flimsy front cover and pressure plate. The only decent clutch they make is the R3C and R4C, which is not the sort of clutch you want in a daily driver.

Not the 400ps at engine garbage, only the competition version if Nismo. You want headroom and ease of use get an ATS carbon twin, you'll NEVER wear that out at your power level - they're 650 - 850 wheel hp rated. Even the ATS spec 1 carbon triple drives better than a TS2 and starts at 1000 wheel hp, but again $$$. ATS really is on another level compared to everything mentioned.

The TS clutch is the superior clutch to the STR, but in reality they're both pretty shit for longevity. On a GTR anyway the TS2 doesn't last at all but might be a bit better on a rwd. If you have to get one of those two it's the TS2, but there are way better alternatives from Exedy, ORC, hell even a Nismo Coppermix will be miles better to use and last. If you want it to last ages and be easy to use - carbon twin or triple ATS, but pricey. Can you get Xclutch twins where you are ? Extremely good value for money with their twins, especially the carbons.

OK what's it doing on the 4wd ecu ? When you say 5, 6 what do you mean ? On 33 GTR code 56 as you mentioned is low fluid level, but is indicated by 5 fast flashes then 6 slow flashes. If you have 5 slow then 6 slow flashes that is codes 5 and 6 not 56, which is your front right and left abs speed sensors in fault. If so this could be an indication that they are not connected in the engine bay.

Ring spanner and muscles. Add 0.5 - 1 metre pipe on spanner if required, it'll go. Literally had mine off on the weekend to cut off the smaller pipe and plug it on the 32.

Yes same, it's an RB26 one.

Yeah that's a random internal Nissan number, not a part number. So yeah that TPS is a GTR 32 -34 RB26 one as I have, as it has the two little locking locators for the throttle closed switch locking wire clip. If it's at 0.01v constantly yeah that's bad, as it is supposed to be at around 0.5v at 0% throttle and linearly rises to about 4v at 100% throttle as it is a 0 - 5v signal. This is all testable with the engine off changing the state of the throttle position. Continuity of the 3 signal wires which has the 5v +, 0v and signal v from ECU to the 3 pin should be checked first - you may have a break in your tps cable.

R33 what ?, as that looks like a GTR one. That is not the part number on it by the way. Why, are you sure it's faulty? What is it not doing - like can't get 0.5v at throttle closed or not deflecting to 4v + at full throttle ? Anyway I have a GTR one here if required.

Definitely possible too and will have the same effect as snapping the pivot. Did you actually go aftermarket for the fork ? The more common 350z cd009 cast fork with a chromoly pivot is generally the fix for this.

That should be a given really.

Not just oem. I have shredded a keyway with a Ross balancer and Nitto billet crankshaft before - Bolt came loose eventually from crushing the crank washers, and that was at tension to 460nm. The balancer is not supposed to rely on the key for any sort of load really as that is the bolts job.

For your sake I hope it is the slave, but it is very unlikely. How'd you go with your mangled crank keyway issue ?

Just realised you don't have a GTR, so forget the clutch booster information as you won't have one.

Look, you may have air in the system and your master (not slave) may be passing, but the fact you can see your slave rod moving that much points to something not pressing down on the clutch. This comes back to something like a bent clutch fork or broken fork pivot. Another thing to check regarding air in the system while you're doing all this, which has happened to me in the last 2 weeks, is if your booster has had its master cylinder dump clutch fluid into it. My master cylinder seals failed, passed fluid into the booster and got sucked into the engine via the booster vacuum line. It won't be why your not disengaging, but can explain air in the system as slave cylinders very rarely fail.

Possibly broken clutch fork pivot, or something just wrong with the clutch. Anyway I think your box is coming out, as you are somehow not pressing on the clutch pressure plate to disengage.