BK

Oil pressure protection is a bit bullshit. Oil pressure protection didn't save our white 32 with the Haltech Elite last month at Morpowa. How can it really ? Everything happens so fast with oil pressure that if it goes wrong, it's really too late for any "protections" to catch it before any damage occurs.

Cheers Ewan, it was high $50s from memory. The car is so well setup and composed - it really inspires confidence when pushing it hard. It still impresses me that I've got it handling the way it does with a lot things people, especially on this forum consider to be shit. Including: -Still retains electric HICAS and rear active LSD. I dunno about other people, but my experience with the diff is if it's bled properly it works really, really well. -Runs a Power FC with MAF. The car is tuned well and has had only minor tune touch ups over the last 15 years. Why would I change it ? -Has twin low mount turbos which are HKS GT-SS, or Garrett -9 equivalent. Internet can say what it likes about singles being superior on an RB26, which they are in most cases as I have one, but the twins still have their place in the under 350kw at wheels bracket.

Stupid car dropped all it's coolant on the first run of the weekend at the drags, so no Motorkhana for the 32 in 2021. Intake side will have to come out as it leaking down there somewhere. Still managed to go 138mph at 10.9 on that run - with a totally stuffed up 60ft of 2.2 ! Actually I'm not even sure I was full throttle ?! 🤦‍♂️

So it was finally time to get the R33 out of it's annual hibernation for Red centre nats 2021 racing and show event. I gave it a mechanical check over, service and replaced the fire extinguisher before competition to get it ready for defending it's 2020 motorkhana title. Mission accomplished, 2 in a row ! Definitely still my favorite car ever 😇 More photos and videos to follow from the event when I can obtain them from my nephew, sister, missus etc.

I have stock R33 GTR dump pipes if still required.

Trent nice to see you back posting again ! Don't be a stranger as its good to hear feedback from such experienced tuners as yourself 👍

I can't believe the numpty you were arguing with couldn't grasp- 1. Dowel is for locating 2. Bolts press two surfaces together ..and this thread made it to page 2 ! FFS...

I initially did like the feel of the Nismo 25% quick shifter, but have since pulled mine out of my 32 and just put the standard one back in - didn't really see the point. As my 32 has a dog box it really just illustrates that synchro boxes for shifting can never compete with dog engagement, and a quick shifter doesn't really improve a hell of a lot with them. It is a good way to destroy synchros though. To me installation of quick shifters feel like a big improvement on synchromesh transmissions, until you shift with dog engagement and realise it's not much of an improvement at all.

Yes the guy said he pushed down on it hard, so shitty install by a muppet user, but guaranteed it would've been a GKtech unit so quality I doubt was a factor. Yeah the cube shifter looks awesome. The brass bush, not so much. Not worth destroyed transfer cases over a $40 unnessary part ? If it falls into a rb25 box it's not going to do shit compared to a GTR losing a brass bush directly into the transfer chain like this guy has done. I'll stick with the factory nylon one thankyou, as they just get ground into dust and don't damage anything.

Absolutely ! Red centre nats 07 is in 7 days time and is entered in the Drag racing and motorkhana. No dyno event this year which is disappointing... I haven't been out at the drags in a while so I'm hoping this cars history has been forgotten as its previous best was 10.6 @ 130mph. I used to have a group 3 ANDRA license and the car has been previously log booked, so let's see if they actually let me on the track as its an ANDRA sanctioned event for the drag racing component. ...and if I remember how to drag race properly !

Pretty sure most of the Sydney usual suspects for still have FC datalogit for tuning.

Check out this guru - good ol' Americans make me laugh 🤣 I knew there was a reason I was so sceptical about ever using a brass shifter bush....

R32 GTR Nitto 2.8 stroker Precision 6466 T4 divided 1.0 a/r Haltech Elite 2500 BP ultimate 98 RON unleaded 456kw / 611hp at 22psi A bit more on United E85 at 32psi Full specs on build thread

Yeah I know -the Castrol vmx-m 75w-85 mineral is about $50au for 4 litres vs the $40 - $50au a litre for Syntrans. Just look in Castrol where you are for a GL-4 mineral around 80w for a suitable first run oil, as I'm sure there will be something equivalent.

Aha ! Yes this is not sold in Australia anymore but used to be under the old grey bottles as TAF-X, as noted on the top of your bottle. Haven't seen this in over 10 years here, it's a good oil. Should be no worries as its basically a 75w-90 GL-4+, which is the closest equivalent to our 75w-85 Syntrans GL-4. It will be absolutely fine 👍 I usually break in / flush with the VMX-M and then switch to syntrans. I guess Castrol Australia saw no point importing a synthetic GL-4 in 75w-85 and 75w-90 weights as the difference will be negligible. Here's the spec sheet on your oil: BPXE-9ZWGML.pdf

So when the fueling issues were resolved, this is where we got to with the T78 on BP98 with 14psi gate pressure before we shut it down. Hadn't put any timing into it yet either, just default Haltech Elite 2000 table so turbo was quite lazy: Would've been interesting to see what it would have done on 30psi with E85 at 8500rpm. I still think it would've done 400kw on 98 and 450kw + on E85. I guess we'll never know as I think we're 90% sold on replacing the T78 with a 6266.

Gotta love towing a GTR through multiple roadworks on a 3000km+ round trip....

Which Castrol exactly ? The Synthetic Syntrax 75w90 I presume ? If so, from my experience I would not be using it as it's doesn't seem to play nicely with the synchros at high rpm. I mean you could use it as a break in / flush oil, but as a GL-5 diff oil it just doesn't shift properly at high rpm, which seems to be a common theme with GL-5 only oils. In synchro GTR transmissions I myself have generally used Castrol, and found the most suitable to be the 75w-85 GL-4 oils as per original Nissan specification. Castrol VMX-M 75w-85 or VMX 80w for a mineral or Castrol Syntrans 75w-85 for a synthetic is recommended, both are GL-4 spec.

replied in the white car thread. As I mentioned earlier the first drive was in the rain on RS4s, which was interesting...thank god for the Quaife front and rear diffs ! After a few more drives I am convinced - the car is bloody perfect. Handles brilliantly, drives nicely, sounds unreal and has more power than anyone needs, so I am so glad I went the 6466 on the 2.8 instead of the 6870 as originally intended. This is more than enough power for this car ( and me ! ) - I don't think I'll ever need to chase more power ever. The Red Centre Nats 07 meeting in 7 days time will be interesting, as this car is entered into the Drag racing and the Motorkhana. Hopefully be able to squeeze a 9 out of it on the strip, but I'm actually more exited about how it'll go on the Motorkhana. I won this event last year in my 33 GTR which will be also back to defend it's title. It'll be interesting to see how a 330kw twin low mount GTR with the 33 compares to this with the single 600kw+ tune on the same track. First thing will be just to keep them out of the walls ! I personally think the 33 will still be faster on the tight stuff.

Nothing to report so far, haven't even got the car back from Adelaide yet. It's awaiting the backlog of cars to be shipped with SMB transport, so it's still sitting at their depot in SA after being collected from Morpowa. See above for theories, but the engine will be coming out for sure - we'll fix it and go for round 2 again early next year.

If that's the case your existing tune is really really bad. You don't base the setting on what you already have - 100% represents 440cc and the setting change is done from there, end of story. I used to run Sard 1000cc EV1 injectors with zero idle issues with short pulse width on a D jetro power fc - setting for these were 44 - 45%. If you are needing to be higher % you are just rescaling your entire fuel map richer. You need to get on the dyno for a tune badly. Without a wideband it's all pointless.

Of course it's rich if it was set to 550cc injectors and you threw 1000cc in there without changes... it's injecting at least 35% more fuel than it should be everywhere ! The way it works is your power fc is factory calibrated to the standard factory injectors, so GTR 440cc low impedance injectors by default. The method to change to 550cc is 440/550 = 0.8 or 80%, hence why your injector settings were at 82%. To set your injectors for the 1000cc ones is the same. As your data says they are 906cc at 3bar, it is 440cc/906cc = 0.4856, so you set your injectors to 48.5 - 49% - job done. If your tune was any good in the first place it will be a least 95%+ the same. Also to note as the factory fitted injectors are low impedance as are the Nismos, so you need to delete the injector resistor ballast to run high impedance injectors. They are Bosch units they supply and should have come with one of these which I hope you are using:

Complete bullshit, power fc handles them fine

The seal is more of a vibration prevention surface, as its just a factory applied black rtv.

Yeah dropping from 35 down to 15psi at idle means something has happened. As mentioned above I think the old man might have set his oil clearances too tight and it picked up a bearing on load. Car is getting picked up and shipped back Monday, so once it arrives engine will come straight out and bottom end disassembled.