BK

Sounds like it, but test off car to confirm. Still cheaper to get a diaphragm for $150 and replace it than get a new gate Japanese external gates are expensive, but made well - prefer them over the Turbosmart designs. Shame you don't have a Trust gate as I have a spare good diaphragm here I replaced just because it was 15+ years old when I changed the spring.

So your feeding the bottom port of your gate boost and vacuum - no good. Good feed for boost gauge or bov, not wastegates / actuators as it pulls the diaphragm the wrong way for what they were designed. Intake plenum can be used on RB26 as it is before the throttle bodies. Go and pull your gate off.

Yep, I don't really follow the thinking either.

This makes my brain hurt - think you need to simplify this a bit mate. When you say throttle body what do you mean ? Is it before or after the throttle butterfly ? After throttle introduces vacuum - it will kill a wastegate diaphragm done like this. Anyway if you put air in bottom port of gate and it comes out the top nipple, the wastegate will need a new diaphragm.

If that's the case it sounds like a split diaphragm on the gate which will make it not open, because it shouldn't pass air from the bottom to top port and can really only do that if it's split. It would also explain why it was fine and then all of a sudden not. Where is your boost reference for bottom port from again ? - because external gate diaphragms hate vacuum and can damage them, so needs to be pre throttle body always. Replacing the diaphragm you'll need to know exactly which HKS item it is, but it'll be something like this if you need one: https://www.rhdjapan.com/hks-standard-wastegate-replacement-parts-diaphragm.html Time to pull the gate off.

Actually, RB26 standard rod length is 121.5mm. HKS or Tomei RB26 2.8 stroker rods are 119mm as their strokers use stock pin height RB26 pistons. Conversely, the RB26 Nitto 2.8 setup uses 121.5mm rods with lower pin height pistons.

Could be a few things. If your plumbed up wrong that's bad, or have a split in the line to the bottom port that's even more bad. A split in the line to the bottom port will act like a bleed to your gate raising your boost pressure, as in the gate is getting lower pressure than reality. Check for boost line leaks ! I have had this happen before and with a gate set a 20psi, it cracked at above 30 - all from a split. Draw a diagram of the setup.

No worries, I know what you're saying and your correct - the "factory" carrier is listed as the 18mm on FAST, but... I have pulled out 3 x factory carriers from definitely factory fitted original clutches in 89 - 92 32 GTR before and all have been the 14mm carrier, not an 18mm. This I can't explain why - it's just what we've found. Did Nissan originally fit 14mm and changed to 18mm - possibly, but again there is no evidence on FAST of that. Even our own current white 32 with an exedy single was fitted to the existing 14mm, and after measuring it was determined that an 18mm was required and therefore fitted. This is the only time we've actually used an 18mm from memory. It's a tricky situation and if you search SAU there is threads upon threads of this carrier "should" be correct and this carrier "should" be the standard length and the isn't, a bit like this one: See why I recommended that your might have to measure it to be absolutely sure, as I have found discrepancies with what is supposed to be and what is. Last thing you you want is to have too long a carrier as it will ride the bearing. Are you in a position to measure it up to confirm what you have and if it will suffice or not ? It is very annoying that Nismo does not provide an actual exact carrier length as per every other clutch manufacturer like ATS twin = 30mm, ATS triple 18mm - 20mm (I use 20mm myself), OS R3C triple 26mm, OS R4C quad 18mm etc. as I have found these examples to be absolutely accurate. Without waffling on too much more, the only clutches that seem to use the 12mm- 14mm carriers are the dampened and sprung centre twin clutches from OS, which is what a Nismo Coppermix twin is. Their assemblies are much bigger than the solid centre more compact twin / triple / quad plate clutches available that usually use the much longer carriers. I will suspect that the push Nismo on the BNR32 will be the 14mm as Kudos has alluded to, good luck with it.

Only way will be to measure it up for sure.

Twin and triples generally have a more compact height assemblies than the stock setup, requiring longer carriers. Standard flywheel is massive compared any other flywheel. 14mm is the stock carrier for push BNR32, not 18mm. They are available in 2mm increments from about 10mm - 32mm. When the entire flywheel and clutch arrangement is shallower than standard, you use a longer carrier. As mentioned twin and triples usually have a longer carrier as they are generally more compact, using anywhere between 18mm and 30mm to move the release bearing face closer to the release fingers. All OS, ATS, Exedy, ORC clutches that I have seen all use longer release bearing carriers. That said I had a look through the Nismo catalogue, and the only carrier for any model mentioned changing as an alternative part is for the S13 version. None of the kits include carriers either - just release bearing. This would imply that the Nismo coppermix usually is designed around the factory carriers on all other push versions. I have a 14mm if required.

That would be great Paul. The white 32 has a Tomei sump baffle kit in the standard sump, but it's changing to a Hi octane big sump now so I need the stock plate for that.

Yeah it won't come on with the ECU settings if the radiator thermo switch is still plugged in because the switch would have to close first to ground the ECU pin - and they don't close unless your coolant temp is pretty high with temps above 95deg C or something ridiculous like that. The plug is spade terminals so you can make up a nice little jumper to plug in without cutting anything too. 👍

I had it come on with a diode too as an auto sparky just did it when I got the ac gassed, but I've just removed it as it didnt want the thermo to be on at 130+ kph with the aircon on, but wanted thermo on with aircon at lower speeds. You don't need to wire anything to do that with a Haltech Elite. Just unplug the radiator temp switch and bridge the temp switch ecu connector permanently. On a factory ECU this would make the fan run permanently as the ECU pin is permanently grounded, but not on an Elite as it only grounds that ECU pin via the thermo logic parameters set. After that the ECU can turn on and off the fan with whatever multiple parameters you have for the thermo fan programmed (A/C on, cut in / cut out speeds and cut in / out temp ) Works like this on both our 32s with the Elites. Note this is for RB26 but I'm pretty sure the 25 is the same setup.

Transfer case to box torque settings yes, but below was referring to gearbox input shaft front cover I'm sure Duncan will have that page handy for exact torque 👍

Look harder, it's there. 15 - 20Nm something like that. Seriously though just use a 3/8 drive and tighten it moderately. The sealant on those lower bolts are definitely more important than the exact torque settings.

Anyone got a standard gtr / rb26 sump baffle plate for me ? One of these that bolts into sump- part number 11113-05U01

You can use either of the above but preferred is 1207C - the red / brown stuff as it is anti sag, cures faster, has higher temp rating and a superior oil resistance to the ones mentioned. Same stuff used on an RB26 sump. Never used that CRC one but "appears" to be the 1207C equivalent. Threebond is actually what Nissan sells as their factory RTV from Japan (sourced from Australia). Some people still use the 1215 grey as it cures slower on sumps, which gives more time when stuffing around fitting it - but it is definitely not as high temp or as oil resistant.

If swapping pull to push, remember the Threebond not threadlocker on the input shaft front cover bottom 3 bolts when refitting, or else it will leak.

Fit transfer to box first before fluids.

Last year this happened to me... If balancer has become faulty and loosened after being tightened to 460nm + there is sometimes another cause. The most overlooked part that makes them come loose is not the bolt or balancer itself, it's the rubbish lower factory timing gear and shields. They seem to crush after extended use or under high loads. Ross have an excellent billet full replacement for this which I have now used. If the balancer needs to come off I strongly suggest inspecting the lower timing gear area. Dead give away for being crushed is when the back of the balancer is touching or almost touching the lower timing cover.

As above, Just Jap $3999 https://justjap.com/products/genuine-nissan-gearbox-nissan-skyline-r34-gtt-rb25det JDM garage $3850 https://www.jdmgarage.com.au/shop/transmission-and-drivetrain/gearboxes-and-accessories/rb25det-manual-gearbox-r34-gtt-r33-gtst-32010-aa520-4/ Probably Kudos motorsport too

Not yet, but I doubt anything will be wrong when it comes off. This engine after the failure still had good oil pressure when cold with no audible knock. Possibly, as the old man said the same thing that maybe could be salvaged with a linish. Crank has already had a 20 thou grind though so it can't be ground anymore, so likely just going to bin it. We have Brett's old stock journal size unground crank here so that will be going in.

Sump is off. Quick initial inspection conrod #1 big end bearing has spun, crank is toast.

They look good, especially the g40-900. That said they are a $4500 - $5000 turbo, so I don't think that will be happening on the white 32 as the old man will tell me to get fcked ! We share costs on the white 32, the blue one is all on me. Possibly a consideration on the blue 32 if the 6466 ever gives me any grief, as the g40-900 looks like it would be sort of equivalent. If I'm not running Precisions it'll definitely be back to Garretts not EFRs.

Hi again. Just to be clear this is the white 32 - my blue 32 is ok and just in the background. I think 6266 on the white 32 with the 2.6 will be good, as I am very impressed with the 6466 on the 2.8 There will be a couple of changes but nothing as crazy as the Blue 32. There will be lots of smaller things to do along the way but essentially fix bottom end, new bigger sump and upgrade turbo. Aiming for back on the road around June.