BK

Well since my blue 32 with the 2.8 is doing 460kw on 98 at 22psi and 610kw on E85 at 32psi with the 6466, I would expect on the 2.6 with the 6266 to do about 400kw on 98 and up to 500kw on E85 at similar boost levels. Definitely won't have the top end of the 6466 but would expect at least 130mph on the 1/4. That's a definite on the oil feed filter and do that already, but I'm not completely sold you NEED an oil pressure regulator. I don't with the 6466 on high oil pressure with a Nitto pump. I've defintely looked into it, but I think you'll find most problems are caused by undersized turbo oil returns rather than too much pressure and is the cause of most Precision turbo hate. Look at anyone running an AN10 braided return and that is far too small under even normal conditions, as the inside hole size at the end of a male AN10 flare fitting is smaller than the turbos oil drain port. Needs to be minimum AN12 and even then is only just adequate once fittings are introduced which are smaller than the ID of the hose size - AN12 line is about 17mm tube ID and AN10 is around 13mm ID, and that's before the 1-2mm reduction in ID size from fittings. This is the main reason I don't run braided drains. I use a 3/4" / 19mm hardpipe barb drain fitting on turbo and into block on the front a 3/4bsp barb fitting return, as its still bigger than even an AN12 male fitting inside. A 3/4 barb fitting is at least 17mm ID, which ends up being the smallest part of the oil drain setup. Doesn't look as cool but it definitely works. Precision recommends minimum 5/8" ID oil return which is nearly 16mm internal hole size, which most people do not have when braided hose is installed for an oil drain line.

Yeah I think the Apexi camshafts were discontinued in the mid 2000s with the rest of their engine parts catalogue. A shame Camtech is gone now as they did make good stuff, just not a fan of the particular spec cams I had. Definitely a shame as I think I remember them having a 260 at 10.5mm or something like that available - similar to the Unigroup 260 / 11mm I thought. More lift from Kelfords mean more duration with the S or SE, but again that's on paper. Then again there's the 182-X the custom camshaft profile option, so I guess they can make whatever you want really.

A few updates are in for this one on progress- Sump finally arrived at Hi Octane to be modified and bottom end parts from Golebys have arrived along with the turbo. In the end went with the Precision ball bearing PT6266 CEA with S ported compressor and T4 divided 0.84 a/r turbine housing, so goodbye Trust T78-29D.

Don't think I haven't been trying to talk myself into it. I had Camtech but sold them as I think the specs were a bit mismatched at 272 and 9.7mm, so I went back to my original Apexi cams. The Camtech just seemed too much duration for not much lift, which is why went back to stock camshafts in the other 32 without using these at all. The Apexi camshafts are the long discontinued Apexi GT step 2 cams which are 264 and 10.6mm with a 32mm base circle, which seem bloody awesome in reality compared to the other Jap offerings like Tomei and HKS. Granted I'm not sure of the specific ramp rate of them, but If I was to go Kelfords I'm not really sure what I would get that would be better than these ? The two that stick out as the obvious choices are the 182-B at 260 / 10mm or the 182-C at 272 / 10mm. Maybe the 182-S or SE ? They seem pretty wild though, but thats purely on paper. So I guess that's where I'm sort of like "don't fix what's not broken" - I dunno.

Yeah I can't complain about the spool, so I doubt I'll ever stuff around with vct / v-cam gear. Even my 33 with the small -9 twins the in cam is advanced +2 and ex retarded -1 to I guess to improve spool. As I sold my Camtechs, I will wait further for the inevitable incoming pull those Jap crap cams out / install Kelfords comment 😄

Few more little things changed for improvement and reliability purposes while the car was being repaired after I blew a small coolant line under intake and worse, had the clutch master seal fail. This really sucked, as all the clutch fluid was sucked into the the engine and obviously had no clutch. New Genuine clutch booster unit Genuine clutch master cylinder rebuild kit GKteck poly steering bush Nismo timing belt Ross billet lower timing gear and shields setup ARP crank bolt Nitto billet crankshaft keys Ross integrated 12t metal jacket balancer One thing that always shitted me with the Ross trigger disc balancers was no timing marks on the horizontal side when looking down. After asking about it they laser etched some onto the new balancer for me 👍 Added new tension wrench to the mix to add to the collection then bolt it back together stuff Looks like during the tuning at Morpowa I have my cam gears set to +2 deg advance on intake and exhaust retained at 0 with the Apexi camshafts. I won't touch as it seems to work.

That's how I undo them. You can definitely get it tight enough doing that but you'll have no idea of where you are. You could have 300Nm, or 600Nm with the 5 ft pipe vft method !

Possible yes, realistic no. Forget this idea - It's a box out and engine out job as everyone has recommended to you. Seen it done once by first time GTR mechanics and it was hilarious 😂

You'll be fine to drive normally as above at vft. FYI the difference between 250Nm and 450Nm on the crank bolt seems to be anywhere from over 1/8 but under 1/4 of a turn everytime I take notice doing it. As mentioned before to have over 400Nm you need a 3/4 tension wrench. Maybe you should buy a bigger one as they are good for axle nuts, suspension etc. and are a good investment. Warren & Brown 550Nm 3/4" in action at 470Nm

Push clutch and yes interchangeable.

Barnaby Joyce - minister for infrastructure. Department that handles infrastructure shit like transport.

Take this advice above

You make me sad 😔

No worries. For comparison the last time I purchased a genuine starter I got the lastest revision Hitachi 23300-AA300 model back in mid 2018 from RHDjapan for $690 + DHL freight from Japan, so the Kudos price is about right thesesdays for genuine. I waste money all the time though on being "genuine" with GTRs and all that, so the Sleeka spares one will probably do you fine to save a dollar.

These are all the starter motor part numbers between genuine Mitsubishi and Hitachi OEM Nissan ones that are interchangeable: 23300-AA300 23300-20P10 23300-20P01 23300-20P05 23300-20P11 23300-AA111 23300-AA112 Kudos have the 1.4kw genuine latest 23300-AA300 one. http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/starter-motor-suit-nissan-skyline-rb26dett-p-2055.html If you want to be a budget arse this will fit from Sleeka in Adelaide: https://sleekaspares.com.au/product/starter-motor-suit-rb20-rb25-rb26-rb30/

Don't forget the 3.2 stroker

Have 2 WRXs myself and they are great. 2001 GDA WRX and the 2015 VAG WRX with the FA20, both in blue of course. The FA20 turbo is brilliant and a quantum leap over the EJ. Not quite sold on the 2022 version though.

Technically a viscous fluid, heaps of OEM bushes have it. It's like a clear silicone based shit of a thing that sticks to everything. Replace with Polyurethane 👍 ...or rose joint / spherical bearing turnbuckle adjustable castor rods ☠️

All Imprezas are AWD, not just WRXs, that Subaru's thing. Worst thing to worry about is in a couple of years time your axle splines will be welded to the hubs and you'll never be able to remove them if required - ever.

Where ? Behind it ? Shouldn't have to do that as you'll mess with all the belt alignments being pushed forward. As for a Ross damper, 33 power steer means 33 damper. As mentioned only the Metal Jacket damper works with the aircon in factory alignment location. All dampers are also available without any trigger teeth if retaining the Platinum oil pump mounted crank sensor. There is an aircon relocation kit to use aircon with the race or gold series dampers, but cannot be used on any GTR if you retain the stock viscous radiator fan. These dampers require the conversion to full thermo setup to still use aircon.

Yes it's all handy info there for a quick reference to how the RBs differ. The ATI link I added seems to be the correct part numbers now too with regards to 32 vs 33/34 RB26. If you're in Australia though I see no reason to run the ATI, since Ross now arguably supplies a superior product and backup. They are good if you are running a trigger setup - much cleaner crank trigger sensor installation than any other setup out there I think as they continue to innovate with all their stuff. The other products such as the lower timing gear setup is also far better thought out in design to the Nitto or Platinum offerings, and cheaper. My only want is that they still don't offer the race or gold series damper that supports the factory a/c and power steering alignment positions yet. Only the now 4th generation Metal Jacket does, but is still more than enough for 90%+ of RB26 motors in use.

But they are designed for the factory pump pulley as It is under driven on power steering. The ATI 750hp one is 16% under driven and the 1000hp is 3% so you can use the factory pump pulley. http://www.atiracing.com/products/dampers/charts/damnissan.htm The balancers like Ross or ATI are generally designed to work with whatever power steering pump your using with it's standard pump pulley, as the offset differences are really the important thing to get right. Using R32 GTR power steering pump, need 32 GTR balancer as the power steering pulley sits further forward. Using R33 GTR power steer pump, use R33/R34 GTR balancer. Ross have an excellent offset chart that illustrates the changes between models. Ross explains it as: On the Nissan RB engine your power steering pump determines which Harmonic Damper you will need. Simply select the Harmonic Damper that matches your Power Steering set up. But it is rarely that simple, so what are the similarities? All the RB engines share the same pulley offsets and groove count for the water pump/alternator pulley. All RB engines, excluding the Australian delivered RB30E/ET, share the same pulley offsets and groove count for the air conditioner pulley, the Australian delivered RB30E/ET has a V pulley for AC. So that is what is the same, so what are the differences? As above the differences between the models is the power steering pump/pulley offset and groove count. This means that whatever car donated its power steering pump, pulley and bracket to your setup determines which damper you choose. All RB26 R32, R33 and R34 GTR's have splined power steering pump shafts with a nut on the front, all other RB pumps use a press on pulley. The RB26 R32GTR power steering pulley is 4PK and the pulley line is the furthest forward of all RB engines. The RB26 R33 GTR / RB26 R34 GTR power steering pulley is also 4PK, however the pulley line is 1PK pitch (3.5mm) closer to the engine compared to the R32GTR fitment. The RB20DET and RB25NEO share the same 4PK power steering offset, approx. 10mm closer to the engine compared to the RB26 R32GTR. The RB25DET R33 and RB30E/ET share the same PS offset as the RB20DET / RB25NEO but have one pulley groove removed from the front to become a 3PK pulley.

Still gold 😄 and do generally agree 👍 Just mostly shit, not always shit.

Ok twins on a V will always make sense but I don't really like to have an opinion on SAU these days regarding things potentially ruffling people's feathers, but let's get one thing straight - to simply say a GTR or RB with twin turbos = shit is ludicrous. I am in both camps - that is blanket statement, even though I might be singled out for being unpopular. I have a GTR or two currently and have had others before that over the last 20 years - so I am going to weight in on an RB26 in a GTR. Majority of the time you'd be 100% correct if you're instantly aiming for over the 350kw at wheels region, which most people are, but under that there's nothing that a pair of Garrett -9, HKS GT-SS or Nismo R1 (pretty much all the same thing) won't fill the void for being excellent. My personal opinion is that if you step into the -5 twin upwards region of power, then a single is always going to outperform everywhere for response and overall power potential delivery. Yes twins are a headf**k by comparison physically, but they CAN do the job at a certain required power delivery. If you want any sort of top end power delivery, well you are absolutely correct with ditching the twins. But the real world driving experience from 250kw - 350kw rear wheel GTR is not to be ignored as inferior to any single that competes in this bracket. I am not biased as our blue GTR is single, the white GTR 32 is single but the 33 is twin. Would I swap the 33 from twin to single at under 350kw at the wheels target power ? - no fricken way in the world would that ever happen for that power bracket. To suggest that a single makes more sense at this point is slightly ignorant with the actual changes required to do so. You want 400, 500kw whatever upwards well yes, twin low mounts is just retarded - just go single all the way. Just my 2c. To be actually back on topic of this thread with the turbos discussed, I will have to concur though that a single would be a better proposition than any these nuggets, I mean upgrades.

Yes I also hate, and have replaced the entire auxiliary connector before. Depinning it a nightmare.