BK

Pretty much this ^ We run a 2000 and 2500 Elite in the R32s, they're mounted under the glovebox on an aluminium plate. We attach a piece of angle on the front side to pick up the 2 glovebox hinge bolts and a small 90 deg bracket on the rear which picks up a rear bolt, using 4mm nutserts as captive threads for the ECU fixing. Mounted like this has enough room for the plug and play harness to come out of the ECU, go over the kick panel and screw into your existing factory ECU harness. I've seen the kits that pick up the same points, which cost like $150+, but it only mounts the ECU ! You are better off mounting it on a made up plate as you can also mount your wideband controller to it too as we have done. For reference this is in the white 32: Definitely better off to make your own.

BP, bluepoint etc old sparkle terminology for insulated screw connectors. Regarding lighting circuits, it's generally discouraged to run the neutral and earth down walls with your hard active and then switch your hard active at the switch. Doing it this way means you never have a hard active at the light fitting, only a switched active. This is very annoying when having to modify circuits as you have to get down a wall to retrieve a hard active, instead of being able to pick it up in the ceiling. Getting down some walls is a nightmare, sometimes downright impossible without major wall destruction. So better practice is to generally run hard active to the light fittings and only run twin switch cable to switches - less cables down walls, no neutral or earth connections hidden behind switch plates, always have hard active at accessible locations, no risk of neutrals or earth conductors anywhere near exposed actives As to running the cable because you only have twin and earth instead of just twin switch cable is a bit of a cop out. Don't have twin, go buy some. 1.5mm twin and SDI is something that anyone doing wiring, like an A grade electrical fitter / mechanic, never doesn't have. That's it. Not all A grade electricians have an electrical contractors license and contractors license is the only way to issue an electrical certificate of compliance. You should have one of these: 😄

I see a neutral and earth down a wall on a lighting circuit for no reason I lose my shit - it screams amateur. I thought only Qld did that rubbish wiring concept. No BP's on connections ? That's just not even remotely reliable or safe is it. Seriously though, I would be finding out the electrical contractors licence number for who signed off on the CoC for bullshit like that.

WTF Johnny, real deadbeats not even bluepointing - Only serious fkwits bother to pull the neutral and earth to the switch anyway as there is no point. Loop at light ya dumb karnts.

Stripping wise not any different between the early and late boxes, it's just in how the synchros are assembled that changes. You'll have to pull the gearset out on the centre plate for a start to inspect, but ideally complete disassembly from plate if you want to check everything. I wouldn't bother though as being a brand new box I highly doubt there is a problem. I found out years ago how much the gl-4 vs gl-5 oils can make a difference with the first OS giken gearset upgrade we did on an early box. OS giken geasets require you upgrade to the late 97 -98 synchros so it was essentially a brand new box inside. Decided to use gl-5 Castrol Syntrax 75w90 for better gear protection and on the Drag strip the box absolutely refused to shift at high rpm, especially on the 2nd and 3rd gear changes. Though I'd lost an energiser clip or something so the oil was dropped - nothing. Put new oil back in which was Castrol GL-4 75w85 syntrans, as that's what we already had, which I was using in the other GTR with an early box at the time which had no problems with high rpm shifting. Guess what happened - box started shifting properly. Switch to a gl-4 without lsd friction modifiers.

An old box even with clapped out loose or damaged synchros will feel fine with shockproof. I personally hate shockproof, but I will say it can completely hide problems with almost fully destroyed synchro baulk rings or missing coupling teeth. A new GTR box with tight synchros using the wrong oil like a GL-5 oil will absolutely crunch - there seems to be very little tolerance for slightly incorrect oil types when new. Is there a reason you were using that Millers stuff, as that appears to be a 75w-90 GL-5 diff oil with lsd friction modifiers - Nissan synchros will hate that. I know it "says" gl-4, but if it says gl-5 too it won't be good for it.

Don't say that shit - I got depressed when I turned 30 ! I was 42 on Sunday... 😭

So it's now completely useless as with other slammed cars ?

Don't do it unless you can just split only the nut off as one side is near impossible to source. Left / passenger side is discontinued for R32 and is now officially rocking horse shit - I've been trying to track one down for 2 years with no luck even on yahoo jp. Nismo for the R32 has only re-released the driver's side pivot no. 2 which takes one linkage, not the passenger side no. 1 pivot that takes two. Why they would do that is still beyond me, especially when they have re-released both wiper pivots for the R33.

Don't know, don't care - this is really not something worth obsessing over. -Get some hose, like the Barricade -cut with something like conduit cutters or parrot beaks to length -put on car.

With external rubber fuel hoses Gates barricade is about the only thing worth using these days.

Yes and no. More from engine reliability, longevity and delivery point of view. More power definitely equals shorter engine lifespan between teardowns. Cue billet blocks and dry sump setups to combat this, which I'm not to keen on doing. Driveline Torque capacity is obviously always an issue on a GTR. I'm Pretty confident in the current setup with Quaife front and rear diffs, 31 spline rear upgrade and the straight cut dog box. Rear axles would be first to go in my opinion Biggest thing is more power means larger turbo - larger turbo means power band delivery gets narrower. Start chasing your tail with 3+ litre capacity strokers to combat this, which also I'm not so keen on doing. Like you've said yourself before the world's going a bit nuts with how much power you can extract from engines nowadays. A reality check on what you're trying to achieve is always a sensible approach to gauge how much power is really enough.

You've quoted, it's not going away now ! Seriously though more power than this I think requires a hell of a lot of compromises.

It's the official Nisssn Australia 32 GTR manual. I know it's the one everyone has a scanned copy of including myself, but the fact it is still obtainable is tempting.

I have the R33 chassis manual - it is excellent. Waited ages for them to finally do it, as I was annoying them all the time for full version in 2004 after buying their engine manual. I find it much much faster to have the hard copy out. Speaking of, this is very very temping when back in stock: https://www.automotobookshop.com.au/nissan-gtr-r32-service-workshop-manual-2-volume-set/

I feel your pain mate. Pray to the gearbox gods or you think it'll hold ?

Nice one Johnny ! Are you going to run with a proper crank trigger this time ?

i'm pretty sure you were referring to a different type a of nugget 💩

Old man has been working on the car without telling me, intake side is all pulled down. As suspected (sort of), where the rear heater hoses connect to the block above the starter motor the block off plug was blown off on the 2nd unused port. "Proceeds to give oneself a triple uppercut"😤

Absolutely ! I believe the word for the HKS GTIII turbos thrown around was "nuggets" 🤣

Yep, with the Mitsubishi cores. They were the GTIII-SS, RS, 2530, 4R and 5R turbos. Almost went a 5R myself as the T51R replacement, until the SAU faithful shot me down in flames and slapped some sense into me 🤣 Be interesting to see how the HKS G series turbos compare, as they obviously realised they made a mistake and mustn't have sold well.

Precisely the reason I bought a 2nd GTR with the blue 32 back in the day, as I couldn't bring myself to massively change the engine setup on such a nice car. Everytime I drive the 33, I realise I'm not really sure I like R32s and how much of a better car the 33 GTR is than the 32 GTR as a model.

Yeah I'm getting at "normal" motorsports applications which have fluctuations - it will not save you.

Its a "bit" bullshit. That's sort of my point mate. If you set it too close to protect it will trip under normal operation. If you set it so it doesn't trip it may as well not be active.

Yeah, they seemed to have canned the MHI GTIII turbos pretty quickly