BK

No, as mentioned in the original picture they are the 1st / 2nd gear ones. Why do people with no idea what the hell they're talking about try and chime in on something as fact ? It is the 1st / 2nd solid insert from the pics.

Zenmarket for sure, I rate them 👍, Buy direct off Yahoo Japan with them and cut out the broker costs like everyone else uses, and get it shipped directly. You can get a lot of stuff you won't find locally - get on it !

Dunno what you're on about as there are upgraded H pattern gearsets for the stock case which will handle 600hp all day and have been for years. The stock gearset will only take so much, so if you break it, you upgrade it. No decent driveline solution is ever cheap mate.

Not just sitting there idling though, quicker you get to operation temp the better under light load. It'll take a lot more than 10 minutes idling to get to 80 oil temp, even at 40+ ambient unless your cooling system sucks.

Absolutely, you speak the truth here. For comparison to a GT3 engine, a much cheaper V8 supercar engine that costs $150k and makes 650hp at engine, lasts about 5000km and cost at least $30k -$35k to rebuild.

Same. I've just noticed most picture attachments within posts are also low res unless you click and open them.

Yes correct, that 3rd / 4th insert is a pre 97 clip. The solid insert on 1st / 2nd never changed but your correct, the 3rd / 4th spring type insert changed on the post 97 boxes to a solid two spring type design. To retrofit to the later clip on 3rd and 4th requires everything to do with the main shaft 3rd and 4th to be changed including main shaft 3rd / 4th gear, synchro baulk rings, sliding selector collar - everything. Even the 3rd / 4th selector fork needs to be changed as it won't locate into the old selector collar. Its about $800 - $1000 worth of just parts to convert. All of these parts required for the conversion is also what you need to do to go to a ungraded synchro gearset like a PPG, PAR or OS giken on an old box as they are all designed around the post 97 synchro update on 3rd / 4th - a cost not usually factored in when upgrading a synchro gearset.

Those solid inserts hold the 2 large circular springs on either side of the 1st / 2nd selector hub for the synchro baulk ring and is the same across all RB 5 speeds. The 3rd / 4th inserts are a spring type clip and look like this when broken: Should look like this: Its way more common to pop the 3rd / 4th clips. The 3 ways these inserts come out on all gears is from: 1. Incorrect installation as they are pretty fragile. 2. Shifting like a Muppet, banging the gears through and forcing the shift. 3. Using a gearbox oil that is way too thick for the synchro to operate correctly like a diff oil or Shockproof. The thick viscosity actually will have a negative effect on the synchros to do their job and unnaturally load other components like shifting inserts, springs and sliding hubs.

Those particular shifting inserts are from the 1st / 2nd gear selector coupling from your main shaft assembly, and as Duncan mentioned there is 3 if them. Only a matter of time before your box will not select 1st or 2nd properly and is totally possible to lock the selector up completely. Pull box and get it fixed, or you'll definitely do more serious damage to main shaft gears, synchros or coupling components. This is absolutely not a "see how it goes" problem - you will kill your box if you don't address this now.

Hahahahaha, that's some funny shit right there. As Matty said $2k absolute minimum for a genuine set as they are available new at a minimum of $4500 a set. As for the fibreglass copies - they are junk. They do not pickup the factory mounting points with clips and need to be stuck on.

GTR front diff - SOLD. Second unit still available. HKS turbo sold pending payment.

Sent you a PM. This box was actually sold to me.

I always thought the wheel arch flares themselves look shit in person, just looks weird. Saw one displayed at Fuji during Super GT.

Yeah not sure if it was sarcasm originally, but yes correct the guard flares go over the pinstripe from factory. Also the wheels are genuine Rays engineering Nismo LM GT1 in original 400R 18x10 +20 offset.

I know man, freaking awesome ! I wonder how much ? Might send my Nismo GT1 set back 😂 Probably cost more to refurb with Nismo than the original $5k+ price in the 90s @PranKFound a slightly used set here for more drool of the best wheels ever ! https://www.ebay.com/itm/224174808803

Doesn't seem that impressive for a carbon on carbon and actually seems like a big backwards step comparing to the ATS - riveted carbon facings to metal plates and no floating centre hub. You realise this is a carbon button plate clutch (carbon pads fixed to steel plate) vs an ATS or Exedy true carbon plate clutch ? A complete carbon friction plate wears down much thinner, wear flat and don't warp, but also much more expensive by design. Which of these is the most important ? Some compromises need to be made somewhere, as people getting big big HP behind a Getrag switch away from Dual mass flywheels and are not concerned with multiplate disengagement rattle. Personally if it were me and I had to have a really light clutch, be street friendly and hold big power behind a Getrag I would just ditch the dual mass flywheel, ditch pull actuation, accept some multiplate rattle and use a ATS spec II carbon triple. This is the lightest pedal you'll get from a clutch that can hold 1000whp+ depending on pressure plate clamping force. If the dual mass flywheel and rattle is a concern the ATS silent carbon twin as you were looking into, limited to 700whp. Ticks all boxes except is a push type and doesn't come with flywheel. If a light pull type at over 700whp is a must then the ATS dual action carbon twin or triple. But again, no dual mass flywheel and has clutch disengagement rattle. All true carbon friction plates, floating centre hub, relatively light pedal and streetable but does mean expensive.

I love ATS, but I must say I don't actually believe the bnr34 silent ATS twin is a very good deal though, at $3700AUD before tax, import duty or shipping from RHD Japan and you have to add a 34 dual mass flywheel on top of that too. They really are starting to price themselves out of the market. The BNR34 ATS silent clutch also requires a pull to push conversion as per Note 3. http://www.ppi-ats.com/Silent_clutch.html https://www.rhdjapan.com/ats-across-silent-carbon-twin-clutch-kit-spec-2-bnr34.html

Yes

Nismo coppermix clutches are not even in the same ballpark as any ATS carbon clutch. The silent carbon ATS clutch is really just retaining the dual mass flywheel as a means of trying to tame the excessive Getrag rollover gear noise which is enhanced with a solid flywheel. They are a pretty clunky sounding box like a Tremec T56 or TR6060, which is not helped by the fact they use an ATF fluid because of the synchro material. It'll be a good clutch as the ATS carbons are the shit - the carbon plates are all the same. ACS in Adelaide used to stock ATS at good prices. If not they have their own twin carbon which might be worth a look behind a Getrag.

Cardano 'nuff said.

Yes it does exactly as I mentioned above. It is actually powered to heat up and close, not just engine temp. IACV is probably not a very correct name for it either, but it is certainly not the AAC valve which has the idle screw and solenoid on it as you would know.

Hey @Dose Pipe Sutututu just to be clear that is an IAC valve, or air regulator valve as the manual calls it, not an AAC valve. The air regulator valve gets a constant 12v on it fed from fuel pump relay and the AAC is pulsed on the ground by the ECU to control the solenoid duty. To test the air regulator valve as per the manual, without power the valve is only fully open at -20 deg. C, half open at 20 and fully closed at 60. If you 12v power them they are supposed to gradually close fully within 7 minutes. Resistance across terminals is 75ohm at 20c ambient.

🤦‍♂️I swear no one checks post dates anymore

Before you go jumping to any conclusions about faulty fuel pumps you need to know what your actual fuel pressure is at idle and onto full load. Without knowing this you are just clutching at straws. Know, not guess. Get a fuel pressure gauge on it and report back.

Glad to hear it's sorted after pinpointing the actual problem - good work 👍