BK

Yep, purely heat dissipation. As Dose pipe said the heat sink is essential if PWM control is used. If just for on / off switching not so much.

Yeah I dunno about that one with PWM use though, no heatsink. Ok for just on / off control I guess.

Yeah dunno. The Crydom from Jaycar here is $49.95 and the Haltech is $59 both without heatsinks.

You tune with JEM right ? What did they say ?

Far out man, a responsive wheel 900hp ! I can't even comprehend that as being realistic. Someone really needs some 6870 results here

Yep that's it, the same as the Haltech or Crydom ones. That's a pretty good price too.

Thanks for that mate. So there is some merit to the guys suggesting to maybe skip the 6466 stage in favour of the 6870 in the first place ? This was my original intention. I know the 6870 will make more power, but surely that will translate into a slower car everywhere else but the strip ?

Why ? What is your real goal with the car ? I feel if you go 6870 you're going down the road of a Coota car then you'll be saying why didn't I go a 7675 ? So am I, but again why ? Has no one done a 6870 on a 2.8 in Oz ? Is your goal more lap time in WA tracks orientated or drag times ? If so on track isn't Simon R. still quicker with a 6262 on a 2.6 ? Don't get me wrong, but isn't stepping over a 6466 instantly compromising the car away from being well rounded drag, track, street and khana car into basically a "Coota style" top end only car ? And again if this is the case going to at least a 7675 is the answer rather than a 6870 ? Obviously I have a genuine interest in this, as my Nitto 2.8 with a 6466 1.00 a/r T4 twin scroll will be finally tuned for power in the next 8 weeks after over 2.5 years of anticipation. So I guess the question is, where some decent 6870 results are on an RB26 - post them up here !

Yeah I thought the Haltech ones were Crydom relays since they look identical. That's good to hear you are running 2 pumps via a single PWM 100A relay and was working well. 👍

That won't cut it for a fuel pump. More like this on a heat sink. HT-030202_IS.pdf

That is the question - will it do the job just fine ? We will see I guess Absolutely it's a lot of money, but remember he is shooting for 1100+HP with a 7685 or bigger which is huge power. If the OS88 goes bang in a short amount of time that $8000 - $9000 saving is gone into repairing a transmission that was not up to it in the first place. Now this is all theoretical at this stage so we don't exactly know how it's going to play out - I hope it really does work out. As this build is essentially along the same lines as the top 20 Coota GTR cars you only need to look at what they are running to see what works and what doesn't. Are any of them at this power level using an OS88 without issue ? I don't know but at this power level the transmission is arguably the most important piece of the puzzle.

I've got a feeling they are discontinued, but any collar may or may not cause an issue. Read the thread again regarding collars not fitting with a Tomei pump and why they had problems. All of the issues of a collar fouling the Tomei pump is purely because of machining or installation error due to the very tight tolerances of the Tomei pump and drive collar - the standard pumps have a lot more room for error on the drive area. The collars were sitting up too high or they didn't return back to their original clearance once heated - all caused by preparation or installation error. Any of the collars should fit any of the aftermarket pumps and if they don't you machine to suit. Remember you have to machine / grind to crank before fitting so any error here couldl make it foul.

Nitto says all aftermarket pumps for their collar. Or just do this if worried about it not fitting. I personally would buy a Lewis engines one as they definitely fit a Tomei. I haven't used a crank collar in over 10 years, but yes it does have to come out. You are supposed to grind the area on the crank where the collar is fitted to be about the same finish as a crank bearing journal - you don't just fit them to an unprepped crank. Then the collar is just heated up and quickly driven on and held in place purely from an interference fit.

I don't know where that came from. The Tomei pump is compatible with a late long pump drive crank right ? So all the crank collar is doing is simulating it being a long nose crank at the oil pump drive on the contact area for the pump. Yes a Nitto or Spool RB crank drive collar will work. Fitting a better pump to the short crank drive is just stupid really.

He's saying basically if you want to use the Tomei pump use the longer crank drive. What do you think will happen with your "limiter bashing" as you say driving less than half of the oil pump drive contact area ? - It'll wear the oil pump drive and it will break. So the options are to get an extended crank drive collar fitted (Nitto or whatever) to your existing crankshaft or get get a long nose crank.

EFR V3.0 thread coming soon ?

Ok then - sounds like you need a Precision 7675 and turn it up to 40psi. It will make your power goals on your 3.2.

I dig straight cut. When you say room for error though, having a H pattern dog you a more likely to damage it if you don't know how to drive it. This is where sequentials come into their own because they are easier to use. When setup correctly they will wear the dogs less than an H dog as you always shift into gear correctly. Not so with an H pattern. Quoting myself from the Big boss thread-

I would say back to PPG, show me a 1200rwhp + GTR running a helical 5 speed dog. I don't believe there is one running that kind of power that's not on the straight cut in H pattern.

H pattern has wider gears being a 5 speed in the same case. When I was looking to go back to a dog box my quote for fully optioned PPG straight cut H 5 speed dog assembled in case was around $15.5k. For comparison I ended up with the PAR 5 speed straight cut H pattern dog which come in at around $11 - $12k assembled by Sam at Neat Gearboxes. Main difference in price was the PPG gearset is about $2k more than the PAR and the PPG price included the optioned billet main shaft. I was talked out of billet main shaft on a GTR as they really don't break because the shaft is so short, unlike a rwd case having a much longer main shaft. As you're going for 1200rwhp I'd only be considering straight cut gears, not helical. If you mentioned your power goals I'm surprised they even suggested the helical dog H pattern gearset as their own power rating is below the straight cut set.

Yeah but you'll be prepared because you'll know why it broke !

The outright failures are more like what Paul was saying, when people shove 1200rwhp + through them and wonder why it broke. I say go on get one

That's a given isn't it ? What they do imply though (not sure if I'm correct) is that the 4wd dry sump pan is supplied. Is that the entire modified sump supplied ? The Ross kit is the same price but clearly need to send your existing sump to get modified additionally, which is around $1000 - $1500 from Lewis engines. I estimated about $12k installed for the Ross kit doing it yourself.

I notice the Hi Octane dry sump kit gives you a front or rear reservoir tank option. I'm assuming front means engine bay anyway. Not bad at around $9000 all up.

Why are you responding to another thread about this ? Could've just linked ?