BK

What makes it built ? That usually implies upgraded forged pistons and rods at a minimum, so you need to be a bit clearer on any other internal finer details of the build.

No, it is a separate part on an R33 and R34 GTR. They have a separate bracket that the ECU sits into, unlike a 32 GTR which is actually the back plate of the ECU housing. Anyway, get a Frenchie's one if you can't find a genuine. https://www.frenchysperformancegarage.com/collections/brackets-and-ecu-mounts/products/ecu-mounting-plate-nissan-skyline-r32-r33-r34

I will once I have some. Just been trying to run in the engine, clocked up about 800km so far. Stripping some of the inside of car again right now as it's going into the panel shop tomorrow for the outer sill replacements and a respray.

It's alive ! Running, fully NT regoed and passed over the inspection pits 💪

Yep that's the ones you'd want, they are the short top adapters. There's not enough room to make a short top adapter that houses the factory upper insulator. There are long ones too that actually house the factory upper insulator, but they are for the compact short EV14 injectors when not using a bottom adapter.

So have you ? Your whole reasoning to wanting a bigger filter is coming back to implying that the standard RB filter is inadequate.

Nope, not the same thing Joshua is talking about. The injectors you've linked are the more common 040 single spray 980cc injector that uses a lower and upper adapter on the half height compact injector length. The twin spray injectors you mentioned are a 3/4 length which is standard Bosch length, so you could use just the top adapters from NZefi or anywhere else - no bottom adapters. That said none of those short top adapters from anyone I've seen retain the factory upper insulators between rail and injector, so the injector adapter is metal on metal when mounted in the rail. How much that bothers you I don't know, but it will be the only way to use them. The bottom mount into intake manifold is no worries. You actually remove the standard plastic disc and O ring, then use the factory intake manifold seals which fit perfectly.

No worries it's fused at 15A on cig

I have a spare brand new Haltech / GM fast response air temp sensor and connector here if you need it. The Haltech WB1 wideband is about $400 from memory.

Yes as above. I'm curious Adrian on why you have decided to go out in search of different filter sizes or alternatives to standard ? Why on earth do I want a physically bigger oil filter on my car ? Show me the last time a RB engine went into complete filter bypass because the standard Nissan oil filter oil capacity or filtration ability was not adequate. If filter bypass is your concern the engine in question would be rooted anyway. Sounds like a solution to a problem that never existed ?

If your ECU is completely wire in its not an issue then as you'll be able setup a spare output to do it. 👍

No flex on any. L or D jetro version also does not have ignition cut either, both fuel cut. The Power FC PRO had the ignition cut and launch control, which was a modified version of the L jetro. I have had all three versions on my blue GTR. Remember you can't Nistune a 33 ECU either. Man up and get an Elite 2000 or 2500 👍

Power FC L jetro - AFM only, which is the most common version. Power FC D jetro - MAP sensor only

Can you stop using the term "the best" as it's completely irrelevant. You need something at a minimum that can tune your ignition and fuel maps properly, which is nearly any ecu really. The "best" ECU is really just the wide variety of capabilities that the ECU in question can do, which for a long time has been MoTeC. New Haltech Nexus is shaping up to be a game changer, but this is so over the top for what you need we won't go there. When you start talking flex, minimum requirement for you is going to be a Nistune, Platinum Pro or a Link G4. If you can stretch, the Haltech Elite will be more than you will ever require.

And what other people are trying to say, is without their hand controllers being connected at the same time it's a bit of a deal breaker. Why do you think FC datalogit have a hand controller passthrough port ? I myself would absolutely get this for my 33 IF I could still have my hand controller connected. Not everyone prefers touch screens to do things and prefer actual tactile buttons. Don't get me wrong I love what you've done, seems great. I just think you've dropped the ball on not having hand controller or the datalogit hardware port there 😔

I answered your question but I will expand regarding the Link. The only thing required from the engine control unit for the R34 GTR to retain ABS and 4WD is a throttle position output from the engine management computer from pin 37 on the original ECU. A GTT also has this output from factory. Whether you are cable or electronic throttle makes no difference - it is a separate output from ECU to ABS TCU / ATTESA control unit that sends a throttle position % output signal. On a Haltech Elite they do this via DPO2 which is routed through to the original ECU connector pin and even mapped, allocated and setup in the R34 GTT or GTR base map. An Apexi Power FC even does this so it retains ABS or 4WD. That said according to the Link G4X R34 GTT manual ( http://linkecu.com/documentation/NGTTX.pdf ) on page 16 the original pin 37, listed as 4WD out even on a GTT is said to be disconnected and not used. This seems pretty strange as I can't imagine Link would not enable it if it was required for ABS functionality, but never the less interesting that Haltech and even a Power FC retain this output. You need to contact Link to clarify why it isn't used, as in, does the ABS not need a TPS output from the ECU on an R34 GTT to function, with only an R34 GTR needing this output for 4WD functionality ? (which it absolutely does on a GTR). Or you could just forget about a Link, buy a Haltech and know either way that the R34 GTT or GTR ABS / 4WD signal is supported and will work regardless and have miles better technical support than Link.

New OEM bolts are the same length as ARP, still gotta cut them down with thinner flywheels.

Yes correct, starts opening.

Flick the olive restrictor from out of a 32 or 33 solenoid feed and see what boost you get. It will be 14-15psi, 1 bar if you will. It is common knowledge that the standard actuators are approx 1 bar. If you really want to get technical they will be more than 14psi with just a regulated air compressor feed as they will not be fully open until at least 16psi as there is no exhaust pressure acting against them to keep them closed. This is from real world testing by the way, not whatever the manual implies. He has a 33 GTR. No restrictor it will be 14-15psi boost on actuator pressure. I can't actually believe this is a debate.

Come on bro, I thought you knew about stuff with these cars. 14psi direct to actuators, As in run lines directly to the actuators. Flick the solenoid line restrictor olive out and see what happens - 14 - 15psi.

That's still all hearsay really, I don't think anyone actually knows. Some say better than old N1 because of higher rumored nickel content, blah blah. If the PRP tests on the old N1 are anything to go by it's still not worth it over an 05U.

Yep agree. New N1 block is $6k+ now which is a bit of a rip off for what it is.

Hey Brett just drop $3.5k on a new 05U block from Just Jap, that's what I did when I cracked mine.

Yep agree @GTSBoy, I think if you can find it all as a package in Australia (which you won't) genuine 2nd hand bodykit would still be at least $4k. Let's look at new prices for R32 GTR complete body kit stuff (no guards or bonnet included here, just plastic) Front bumper - $2k Front bumper lower lip - $1100 Nismo/N1 bumper nostrils -$800+ pair Normal 2 piece side skirts - $2500 pair - ($4k - $5k pair if you want the Nismo 3 piece style) Rear late model mudguards - $700+ pair Rear bumper -$1500 Good luck mate. Japan Yahoo auctions it's all available 2nd hand, but you will pay and shipping will kill you.

Stock 33GTR wastegate actuators are 14psi. Want more, run boost controller as you won't be replacing the actuator springs on the stock sealed units. Don't stuff around with your oil feeds either.