BK

No, ABS will be intact as wheel speed sensors wire directly to the traction control (or ATTESA ECU in the case of a GTR which manages ABS) Should be also still intact, as in a throttle position output from Link to traction control.

Nistune can't be used with R33 as far as I know, need a different ECU like R32.

Not sure I get the point of this thread, have I missed something ? Why not use a standard Nissan filter ? Not like they are expensive.

We've found the Walbro internal check valves are garbage on their pumps, as in may as well not be there. A speedflow check valve absolutely will not do that and sometimes hold around 30 psi for days like on my blue 32. It has 2 speedflow check valves (one on each pump from surge tank) and an SX fpr with 3 AEM external pumps. Our white 32 has a Walbro 285 with internal check valve 525lph pump and Turbosmart FPR1200 and it drops slowly to 0 after shutoff with definitely no leaks.

Will have it running properly on the weekend coming up. Hopefully looking at a drive to Adelaide in May for tuning at Morpowa.

Yes whoever owned and worked on this car showed absolutely no respect for this car, or any clue about how to go about things or what they were doing. Cheers. Actually yes, there is quite a lot to catch up on. So it was time to start hooking in and getting the ECU install, sensor wiring, fuel system, suspension and intake side done. Removed standard suspension Replaced them with some stuff we've had laying around like HKS Hipermax III coilovers - spring rates are 7kg front and 6kg rear. Rebooted them before installing as the existing dust boots were stuffed as below. While we were there also swapped in some Nismo front upper control arms / bushes and GK tech rear subframe aluminium spacers. Come on get into it ! I want a beer... Front pipe - 90mm / 3.5" Replaced those stupid headlight rubbers that are always destroyed with new ones. New wiring had to be done before finishing the intake side so wired and installed new Bosch combined 150psi/150c oil temp and pressure sensor, Haltech 4 Bar MAP sensor, 150psi fuel pressure sensor, 3 port MAC valve for boost control, GM / VDO continental Flex fuel and fuel temp sensor and Haltech GM air temp sensor. Fuel system lines in engine bay to tank done with 200 series Speedflow PTFE. Single AN8 supply to Speedflow 602 inline filter, out to twin AN6 to each end of SARD fuel rail fitted with Denso low impedance 1000cc injectors (out of my blue 32 as that now has 1550cc EV14s), which required replacing the injector connectors from EV1 to Denso high guide connectors. Return is AN8 back to tank with the Turbosmart FPR1200 fuel reg with gauge and flex sensor. Did a AN6 bypass line specifically for the flex sensor off the main AN8 return. Had the rail return over the top as below. I didn't like it so we changed it. Removed the shitty engine oil water heat exchange and bypassed, which would have been full of bearing metal anyway. Rerun the heater lines to maintain heater core function. Capped the oil filter block section with a Ross block off plate. Oil filter in factory location. Wanted a filter relocation so an HKS 12 row oil cooler was installed into the front left guard. HKS filter relocate block is 70c thermostated and also has pressure relief valve. Bolted on starter motor, intake manifold, throttle bodies, plenum, standard harmonic balancer, aircon, power steering pump, belts and pulleys, radiator and new upper/lower shrouds. Wanted intercooler hardpipe kit, so an HKS intercooler pipe kit was chosen and installed. Those HKS or the Nismo pipe kits have always been my first choice over the years being made of cast alloy construction. They are solid as and fit extremely well. We also reintroduced the charcoal canister system that had been removed. An R33 one was used as they are far more compact. Stock blow off valves were also removed and replaced with a pair of Blitz old school VD blow off valves we also had lying around. Installed some NGK BCPR7EIX plugs gapped to 0.8mm, put some Splitfire DIS-001 coils in it and replaced the coilpack harness, knock sensor harness and starter motor / transmission harness with new ones. Also done a H4 headlight relay harness too. All in all it started to look like a car again. And because the old man is old school, the turbo of choice is the .... TRUST T78-29D ! Journal bearing baby, yeah ! As I said it's started coming together finally. At least I got to drag him into the 21st century with something - More to follow soon 👍

Anything really, but again as Duncan mentioned just using a scan tool / consult software you'll be able to actually read the ECU temp sensor you already have without adding an extra sensor or gauges. This is where stand-alone ECUs for a start make life easier. So something like this https://www.nisscan.com/NDSI/index.php?content=buynow

Yep, absolutely. Why was that ? Not even the same ballpark really

Look, your reasoning is just stupid on your coolant temp theory. You may or may not have a problem, but as Duncan mentioned earlier you've got no idea what your actual water temp is as your going purely by the gauge on the cluster. That means jack shit. "Normally" warmed up at anywhere between 70 - 90c the gauge will point slightly below horizontal - IF your gauge sender is correct. Yours probably isn't. Replace it for a start as they are not expensive. There is a coolant sensor for the gauge and and one for the ecu. You need to see what your ecu sensor is actually reading. For example, my 32 gauge cluster indicates a bit high when warm, pointing above the horizontal. I know it's not hot as indicated by the cluster as the engine ECU sensor as read by the Haltech will be reading fine at 80c. FYI stock thermostat opens at 78c. This is basically the same principle for the oil pressure cluster, it's hardly accurate and you need a REAL oil pressure sensor as there is no ecu oil pressure sensor standard, just a gauge cluster one. You need real sensors with a real way to be able to measure them. And yes the HKS filter is garbage as mentioned.

You need to pay for that privilege on SAU

Yeah I saw. 👍 These factory 5/16" OD hard lines have cost me 3 x cracked fuel tanks from pressurisation with a surge tank setup. Not to mention never, ever use the R32 fuel pump cradle return line to put fuel back at the pump - it goes to about 4mm. Bin it.

As long as the stupid 5/16" inlet / outlet hardpipes are removed, as this really is the entire problem with the factory GTR top hats.

No, have a good look. It is the actual stock Nissan synchro 5th gear arrangement. This entire gearset is also completely synchro with straight cut except helical 5th - straight cut has nothing to do with being synchro or not. Regarding the extra whine, it comes from having a straight cut input shaft gear arrangement vs stock helical input. This would definitely be my preferred synchro gearset of choice, well done.

For what, if you don't mind me asking ? For market purpose pricing interest.

I wish you the best of luck with the outcome of this situation. What do you think the cost of that will be ? $2k, $5k, $10k ?

You can look where I told you look and it'll probably be $500 - $1000 cheaper delivered. Nengun is under $3k. More to the point is why do you feel you need another box again ? You have an RB20DET box yeah ?

Ok guys more heads up on Haltech firmware. If you are using 2.38.00 at the moment on an Elite 2500 or 2000 there is a problem with it - get off it now. The problem is related to running the wideband, causing it to randomly malfunction and get stuck in boot mode. After speaking to Haltech the problem mostly occurs when upgrading to 2.38, but for me this happened when trying to move to 2.39 and the firmware update could not complete. This caused my Elite to lockup and get the wideband stuck in boot mode, which causes the wideband to draw max current. Basically to fix it I had to go back from 2.38 to 2.37, then move to 2.39.01 which corrected the issue. If you're not on 2.38 don't worry as Haltech have since removed it from the firmware update list and is no longer obtainable. There is also a new ESP pack 2.47.01 available too, which is not downloadable on their site. It is only installable though your existing ESP software when the ESP is using online connection.

Man don't say that Martin, I was thinking of moving to WA. So I take it I've got no chance of getting my two 32 single turbo GTR registered there then ? Here in the NT we have yearly over the pits inspections for cars over 10 years old and it goes through everytime.

Aren't you Perth mate ? What was the specific on the defect ?

9's on a standard GTR box is impressive, especially without breaking it. Well done 👍

79752-22U00 is the part for rear windscreen upper outer moulding. It is the same on coupes R33 GTR or gts. About $100 AUD from Amayama.

I agree Duncan. The RB26 has a strong as fk main cradle. I don't buy into the necessity of really needing a main cradle block brace unless your goal is somewhere north of 1500hp, and therefore completely unnecessary for most applications. Japs been running low 9s and 1200hp well before this was even considered a thing in the 90s. The cars that have pioneered this are the CRD and Maatooks 6 sec 1/4 cars before going billet blocks. Ask Rob from RIPS in NZ if he is using one ? I am pretty sure that's a no. Not saying they aren't good or have their place, just think the necessity for one is overhyped.

ID injectors are bloody expensive, but they are statically and dynamically flow matched. Buying a set from Taarks or whatever they are not matched at all. Best solution I found was to buy the Bosch ones as mentioned from somewhere like Golebys, pay and extra $100 and they will match up a set for you. Still cheaper than the ID route. Also regarding head drain, check out the Franklin engineering one. I think it is superior and cheaper than the PRP setup.

12 tooth is generally enough for most setups, A V8 supercar a 6 or 8 tooth from memory ?, no missing teeth. Sensor type matters too. Hall effect seems to not like high crank tooth count like a 60 tooth, which is when you really have to move to a reluctor sensor with an AC wave signal. Then they become a pain because they are a lot less forgiving on the air gap, requiring definitely less than 1mm. Where a hall effect definitely has more room to move regarding air gap size. It's enough to really make your brain hurt chasing the exact setup you want and knowing the pros and cons of each as you mentioned I guess. One point to mention is Ross crank triggers are on the balancer, so you really don't want to go cutting teeth off them, but obviously if you want missing teeth it can be ordered with the 36-2.

Exactly. This is precisely why the cam home housing is adjustable to achieve this. On a Haltech Elite you have to set it up reading the channel "Home percentage of valid travel" and aim for 50%. When running I know mine fluctuates between 48% - 52%, showing indeed how much belts do deflect. Not sure if this channel is on the Platinum - hope it is.