BK

If that was true there would be no reason to ever run a cam home. If it can do that you have a very poorly setup trigger with bad gaps, inconsistent sensors or both. That's why there is a TDC offset for the cam home. Once this is setup correctly, the engine syncs in startup, the ecu knows what cylinder it's on the cam home is actually just a reset reference. On an elite with no missing teeth you can even tell it to sync from cam then ignore the cam once synced with no missing teeth required to do that. As you have a Platinum not an Elite, I believe (pretty sure) it doesn't support a missing tooth on crank anyway. The Elite can support lots of different trigger types / patterns and the Platinum supports just one. It uses a 12+1 setup (which in that ECU is configured as a 24+1), so do not remove a tooth. The missing teeth seems to be better on 36 tooth crank wheel setups, not on the 12 tooth. Ross triggers say don't remove teeth on 12t but are already missing 2 teeth on a 36t for example. So from their viewpoint missing teeth in crank is only better with a high crank tooth count. myself personally I run a Ross 12+1 (no missing teeth) trigger setup on the Elite.

Welcome Daryl ! Not many from the NT on here anymore.

My comment below was not trying to have a crack at you, I just generally think it looks terrible and unnecessary.

So yeah in your case the 24 spline 25.4mm section itself is the weakest part as opposed to a stock or even OS giken uprated shaft having its weakest part before the spline. So even your 24 spline input is still a pretty beefy shaft 👍

Absolutely. I actually don't like an engine that screams "hey look at me, look how modified I am !" I guess it's just not me. For example my 32 has a heavy duty Donaldson 4" truck bend and pipe from an Isuzu to the 6466. Looks like it could be a factory part if you didn't know better. Yes it would also look more bling if my turbo oil feed was just left in the bare braided line without the heat sleeving, but it's also there for a reason.

Is it just me or does anyone else think that looks shit ?

Pretty much do the same thing, but mostly pull box after that too for some reason. 5hrs is a cracking effort Duncan 👍

Gotcha, I thought it might have been an adapter plate but it wasn't made clear with the input shaft options. At first I thought you might have been doing a Toyota JZ 21 spline input shaft for an RB application like Quaife in the UK have. So what I was getting at is most people in the RB circles move to a 28.5mm GM 26 spline input shaft for RB applications, instead of the much weaker 25.4mm Nissan 24 spline input. All Australian performance box manufacturers like Holinger, Albins, PPG, PAR for example have this much preferred option. Its that common the Japanese like HKS, ATS and OS giken actually refer to it as the Holinger spline. Anyway I'm sure someone will take the plunge very soon. Good luck with the gearset release 👍

Why would you even bring that up ? Mate, the Speedtek is a wannabe OS giken synchro helical cut gearset , this is a straight cut dog engagement - you can't really compare the two can you ? @martym10Ok on paper this sounds not bad, thanks for the info ! For comparison the same sort of thing is a tad under $10k from PPG with similar ratios. $15.5k from PPG gets you installation including the extra billet centre plate and billet main shaft. From the photos I would be correct in saying that this box is assembled on the standard centre plate using the standard Nissan main shaft, standard 5th/rev selector fork and standard shifting interlock barrel ? Also what's up with the transmission spacer ? Why would you need to do that ? Just saying, because no one is going to be putting a high $ straight cut dog box gearset onto the extremely weak standard centre plate. Do you have your own solution like a billet centre plate ? I also strongly suggest you make an input shaft in the 26 spline, 28.5mm configuration as per GM / Chevrolet specification as most clutches for RBs can come with this clutch hub centre spline size option.

I take it we wouldn't get charged VAT, so for us Aussies over here around $7600AUD + plus shipping plus import tax / import duty / GST etc. is about $10k AUD before installation. That's a hard sell mate compared to a locally available PAR or PPG H pattern gearset. You'd have to give SAU a pretty good run down of all the technical info ie. Ratio options, gearset material and construction, selector fork material and construction, additional treatment / finishing processes. Get my drift ? Fill us in on the specifics if you will.

Welcome. Nice one, whats the price ?

No it won't, I'm sure they use a different tooth count and angle on the helical input with PAR and PPG synchro gearsets. It's all to do with the counter shaft gear which OS giken matches to the standard Nissan profile. You can use a stock Nissan input on an OS gearset, or an OS reinforced input on a stock box (not that you ever would). Also be careful with ''reinforced input shaft", as OS giken do a reinforced input shaft in both standard Nissan 24 spline and GM 26 spline. PM me if you want to know more, but an OS giken uprated shaft even in 26 spline is still much smaller before the spline on the shaft area, than say a PPG or PAR 26 spline input shaft is. You have a PAR gearset, you need a PAR 26 spline input shaft.

Box will be first to go. My first ever standard 5 speed box I killed was when my Exedy was in it. Not exactly the clutches fault though. The Exedy triple was very similar to the OS giken R3C, with the R3C maybe being a little more manageable. Both handle some pretty decent power, but suprise suprise, do not cope with excessive heat.

The Exedy triple is usually cerametallic plates, so a metal and ceramic mix. I had one on the blue 32 about 11-12 years ago. Was a very aggressive clutch.

If anyone searches SAU over the years, I think they will know my opinion on carbon clutches - they are the best, especially ATS. That said I do live in one of the hottest places in the world and you live in one of the coldest inhabited places in the world. It's all about thermal management here, and carbon plates stand up to extremely high temperatures because of their high temp coefficient. After speaking at lengths with ATS and ACS the hotter it gets the better the work. The plates really need to be at about 70c + get the complete lockup effect under high torque and rpm loads, so great for me. For you though, yeah I'd probably reconsider carbon plates. I saw your ridiculous temperatures of -40c or lower, with wind chills of lower that -50c. Well that's just nuts and could definitely have an effect on a clutch. In those conditions I'd be running a ceramic or metallic clutch, not a carbon or organic. Metallic based plates will heat up faster that ceramic, but ceramic will hold the heat in the plate better once hot than a metallic so it'd be interesting to see which one would be more suitable to super super cold conditions. It's definitely an interesting and valid point you raise.

Just completed - Modified 10 plate R32/R33 RB26 GT-R transfer case added for sale. - $2100 Was going to be my spare

Next was to get this engine and transmission in after trial fitting the Trust T4 twin entry manifold and Turbosmart 50mm Pro gate. Exhaust studs were way too long so they were going to need to be shortened to be able to fit the manifold once engine was in car, no drama. Yay ! Engine back in it's home. The car came with an NPC single plate clutch which looked ok, pretty much hardly used so we thought we'd give it a shot. One thing though was the muppets who originally fitted it obviously had no idea and fitted the wrong bearing carrier, and tried to correct it by doing this - Yeah, they'd packed 4 washers under the release fork pivot point to try and get some acceptable clutch travel. Well this is just not an acceptable way of doing it - you use the right carrier. If your clutch release bearing carrier is too short and you do this, the release fork doesn't sit on the realease bearing carrier fingers properly. It was fitted with a 14mm carrier. We contacted NPC and they had no idea what release bearing carrier it should have, but sent through their measurements to compare and possibly figure it out for ourselves. After measuring everything, the correct solution was to remove the washers and fit an 18mm push release bearing carrier. Replaced the push slave cylinder with a new OEM one and deleted all that clutch hard line crap with a direct clutch master to slave telfon braided line. I see NPC are using Exedy pressure plates and clutch covers, interesting. So I take it NPC are just replacing the clutch disk itself with their own one. Clutch looks alright I guess... Haven't used a single plate in years so I'm either going to be pleasantly surprised or crack the shits if it sucks. I guess it'll probably drive alright but I dunno if it's going to be up to the task of 400kw+ at the wheels and 7000rpm launches. If it fails, an Xtreme carbon twin will go in it's place at a minimum. Oh well, we stuck the rebuilt standard 5 speed box back in with some Superpro poly crossmember bushes to replace the clapped out factory rubbers. Me and the old man have a bit of a bet going to see what fails first - I say the NPC single plate clutch, but he thinks the standard box will go bang on 3rd before the clutch goes. Anyway after the engine, clutch and box was in we thought we'd better keep stuffing around and pushing ahead trying to get some progress with the bolt on stuff installed for the engine.

Just throwing a new set of rings in won't change much in the way of blow by if there is excessive cylinder wall wear at 86.0mm pistons. If excessively worn you'd need to go 20 thou over rebore to go to 86.5mm and get a better piston to bore clearance and therefore tighter ring seal.

This guy would need to go and buy a lotto ticket if the crank doesn't need a at least a 10 thou regrind with no oil pressure for 10 minutes !

I don't think you have much choice

I had my PAR box in for about 2 years now and so far it's great. As above I got Sam at Neat Gearboxes in Adelaide to actually source my gearset from PAR. I had a holdup on the billet selector interlock barrel for about 3 months. All up my gearbox was about 5-6 months from start to finish because of that. I definitely think going through Neat Gearboxes is the best when dealing with PAR. That said, after talking with Sam at Neat he's said he has issues like this with ALL of the box manufacturers with parts supply at times. That's all of them - Albins, Hollinger, Modena and even Pfitzner. I don't want to sound like I'm defending shitty service, as the experience mentioned above really isn't good enough either.

That's bloody awesome. I hope you can really make a go of it. Doesn't sound too dumb to me 👍

Don't get me wrong, I love my blue 32 mega dollar heap of shit. I still like my 33 more, even if it has gay twin turbos and a Power FC. But I'm retarded so...🤦‍♂️

Yeah ok I guess. Been working on the old man's 32 today. Geez, the R32 GTRs are such a heap a shit. If they didn't go so hard I don't think I'd bother with them.

Hahahaha !🤣 Yeah insert shifter spring. It's the part that holds the selection collar in position. Probably from 3rd or 4th. There is 3 of them per coupling collar in 1st - 2nd and 3rd - 4th. You will notice at high rpm if one is missing, it will crunch. All three missing it will crunch at any rpm. Box out and fix. That is caused from shifting at too higher rpm like race car box.