BK

Labour. See below, that's how. If your asking on how to build 1200hp your not building it yourself are you ? It's not "just" engine, it's the whole car that needs to be addressed, while paying someone else to do it.

Absolutely this ^ Check out my white 32 GTR build with the completely fcked box that was in that. We weren't even going to pull it down but the carnage we found was out of control for a box that still sort of worked. Bearings were the least of our worries...

Yeah that's ring CRD or Maatooks and part with $250k+

Sorry, your box needs to come out and taken apart. You can't get the input shaft out on a synchro box without removing the gearset on the centre plate from the bell housing. On a dog box it's easy. You remove the front gearbox cover and the input shaft just falls out.

I take it this is for some bullshit American / Californian compliance rules ? As above if they could never hit those numbers makes it all a bit irrelevant, and will cause a world of pain if it's to be tested in any way.

It's also on the swanky stickers for your Bonnett for about $20 now released through Nismo

I guess the question is who gives a shit ? Key that turns car on is enough really. The genuine GTR keys also degrade over time too.

Remember the Redline MTL and MT-90 are not shockproof oils, they sound like they might be ok.

Yeah those guys are a rip off I've found. RHD, Nengun and Amayama etc it's all coming directly from Nissan. Nengun if you wanted to buy one right now...

Hey that's really good to hear you've had good results with it too. At lower rpm shifts any gear oil will pretty much feel like anything else I guess when at operating temp, but at higher rpm is where you'll generally notice the difference between different oils. I've tested heaps of these different oils on the quarter with the GTR synchro stock box and the OS giken synchro box which means shifting at least at 6.5k - 7k plus. The Castrol Syntrans 75w85 is completely repeatable at a variety of different temps on high rpm shifting - really really consistent and never broken a box with it (touch wood). I've broken gearboxes with Redline shockproof oil, HKS actual GTR specific GTR gear oil and Castrol Syntrax 75w90. The HKS oil is another one to avoid as it seemed just too thick for the synchros to work properly. I think it was a 90w120 from memory and I'm not even sure if it's sold anymore. But the Shockproof lightweight, HKS and Syntrax oils hated the 2nd to 3rd shift - they just didn't go in at speed.

Which is what in Yen approximately ? What is your sources ? Because Nengun is still listing 32010-AA520 the manual transmission for ER34 GTT at about $2500 AUD before shipping, GST, duty and other taxes. So still about $3.5k - $4k AUD

FYP, more correct. If shockproof was so good for gear only protection the offroaders with Albins dog boxes would use it - they do not. Shockproof is a funny one. For more clarity regarding this, as Duncan mentioned if you use it with a stuffed synchro box it masks the problem with shifting. But from my usage from years ago if you use it in a great condition box it stuffs the synchros - go figure. Redline MT-90 or MTL seems like a good choice if it's readily available to you for sure 👍 The difference between then might not just be in you head though- Because of availability, I just personally have found the synthetic Castrol Syntrans 75w85 to be the best with synchro boxes for shifting quality. The Penrite equivalent (which the name escapes me) is also pretty good. Castrol Syntrax 75w90 by comparison was total crap - no shift above 6000rpm, so I think it's more to do with the contained additives sometimes not just the viscosity. Syntrans is a GL-4, Syntrax is a GL-5

Never pulled a 34 GTT box down but do you know how they are different ? The 33 RB25 box is the same as the 89 - 96 model GTR boxes inside as far as input shaft, main shaft gears, synchros, selector forks and counter shaft goes. I was under the impression the only change to the 34 rwd box was on the 2nd and 3rd gear main shaft gears, selector fork and synchro revision to match the series 3 R33 GTR gearset changes. Obviously released as a pull in the the 34 GTT box too but that's also easily changeable.

Forget all above and CD009 like previously mentioned 👍

Just Jap, JDM garage etc. The boxes from somewhere like Amayama or Nengun are way under $3k AUD new but you gotta ship it and duty, taxes. If I were to be getting a new one I'd be talking to Darron at Just Jap. Forget the RB20 box idea

Absolutely this ^ if you've got a 2WD

No I'm not trying to be like that at all. Just the facts - a factory box is still just a factory box. Converting could cost easily the same as just purchasing a new one if required.

I think you meant Weldon A2047 ? The one with AN12 fittings ? It'll be fine, but what about the rest of the fuel system like lines ?

The WPC treatment definitely does seem to have its merits, as it is essentially as mentioned a smaller / finer and faster version of shot peening which in itself is definitely been proven to yield results regarding improvements in strengthening of components. As to helping thermal management, probably not going to help much realistically. WPC probably not required with high end bottom end components either that are already manufactured super strong anyway during their construction. Other areas of thermal management is more of a key focus for reliability. For reference regarding temps, I was driving the blue 32 yesterday on a bit more of a shakedown test and check during a road tuning session. Out in the west McDonnell ranges section I was averaging about 85c oil and coolant temp and about 70c fuel temp on a day that was 40c temp and 50% relative humidity. Highest EGT I saw on pyro was about 700c under boost at about 140km/h in 4th with 500ish being pretty average on about 30% ethanol at the time.

Standard crank is forged. But I get where you're coming from when someone says they've got a fully mad setup with everything forged which usually means just some random forged rods and pistons thrown in. The most durable setup as you know is forged high silicone content pistons, billet steel rods with at least minimum 3/8" ARP2000 spec rods bolts and a billet steel full counter balance crank - not just some random "forged" stuff. I've had some Eagle forged H beam and Scat forged I beam RB26 rods before and was not impressed with their rubbish.

Is $3.5k a stupid price for a brand new complete RB25DET box ? Seems pretty reasonable to me for what they are without all the bullshit required to split a box apart and retrofit parts - assuming you even have the capability / tooling required to rebuild and assemble a transmission yourself. At the end of the day either gearset is still just essentially a poxy standard GTR gearset inside anyway - not exactly the pinnacle of strong gearboxes by any means.

I live approximately 1500km to the closest dyno or machinist being in Adelaide, so yeah I can relate. All machining or dyno for me is a 1500 - 2500km exercise. Look up where Alice Springs is, it's pretty much the hellhole furnace of Australia in the middle of two cities 3000km apart. 40c is a moderate day here.

Only if the seals are good. If they're not, which they probably aren't, they're a throw away. Just retain the top boot lid mounts to adapt to new ones.

Sounds good 👍 How does it shift at higher rpm ?

There just seems to be some sort of misconception that shockproof oil or shift additives "fix" your gearbox. Or make it handle more power. They do not. I also find this amusing from the 'mericans. His gist is - don't run shockproof, it's not recommended to do so, but use it anyway because it you'll destroy 3rd gear before destroying a synchro ?! So use shockproof anyway and wreck the rest of the box - Righto mate. https://www.gtrusablog.com/2017/02/what-oil-should-i-use-in-my.html?m=1 If you're breaking boxes, maybe you need a stronger box ? 🤔