BK

Really ? That sucks, they had some really good grind selections. Only just sold some new Camtech RB26 cams last week for $500. 🤦‍♂️ Kelfords only now I guess ?

I know. I need to move.

Agree it mght be the only way to go to diagnose the HICAS now. That said, I don't know where Jeff lives in NZ but getting access to a proper scan tool might not be so easy for him. We all don't live in a major city. I know if I needed one here I'd have to go 1500km down to Adelaide to find a workshop with one, because I know the only ones around here would be factory dealerships who no way would connect to any import.

I think it's time to pull the box out, remove your clutch and inspect the setup. The clutch has obviously worn raising the front cover fingers, making them push against the release fork, therefore pushing your slave piston in. It could be slightly disengaging the clutch without you realising it by feel. The question will be is it because of an incorrect bearing carrier length being too long, causing premature wear in the plates. Or everything is infact correct, and it's just worn out from light use because the STR2CD is a shit clutch (which they are from a performance point of view). There's a reason there is no OS giken GTR recommendation to fit a STR2CD behind an RB26 GTR, because they handle very low torque and is barely an upgrade over a stocker as far as torque loading goes.

Might as well sell that. Under no circumstances use a Nismo big bore push slave. They make the clutch lighter, but they DO NOT provide enough travel for multiplate clutches, and are actually recommended from Nismo themselves only to be used with single plates in the notes. They are right, they provide less travel. I've tried one with an R3C on GTR with a 26mm carrier. After a bit of use the clutch wouldn't disengage properly because of the reduced travel, very noticeable. Bit different with the STR as they are a pretty soft clutch for a twin plate. They are really only designed to be silent and have a light clutch pedal. Not really the sort of clutch for any serious power that's for sure with such a light pressure plate. But because of the less travel it might actually retract further, and provide some freeplay. Might. But if you've got the wrong carrier that really doesn't change the fundamental error of the clutch release fork to bearing carrier height, it's going to throw your travel amount off.

😂 That is from their english OS giken page, which is definitely incorrect compared to a copy I have, which I've referenced when doing GTRs. Something has been lost in translation... The one from actually OS giken Japan says:

Yeah slave looks pretty maxed out. The release bearing itself is just an OEM one. So are the bearing release carriers, which come in 2mm increments from 8mm - 32mm. So what is actually in your car, an 18mm ? Read my info again. R33 gtst with this clutch is supposed to be a 14mm carrier, which is actually the standard R32 GTR push bearing carrier. Where are you getting your info from ? Because a TR2CD for a 33 gtst is supposed to be 12mm, NOT 16mm. 16mm for TR2CD again is for a 32 gtst. Seems like you've maybe have been buying 32 gtst clutches mate, as your information is incorrect for your car and you've twice now quoted R32 gtst carrier sizes for the clutches mentioned. I know I am correct, as what I have noticed in OS giken specs is the R33 GTSt seems to follow all of the same carrier sizes as the R32 GTR push boxes, I guess because the 33 big box is so similar. They are actually the same as a GTR around the bell housing area, input shaft, counter shaft and main shaft gears. If you do indeed have an 18mm and it's supposed to have a 14mm, you've pretty much prematurely worn out your clutch and would exactly cause this problems you've described, as your release bearing is 4mm further forward towards the pressure plate fingers than they should be. Basically like driving around with your foot resting on the clutch all the time - not good.

That's because the HICAS computer waits for a predetermined period of time to receive a speed signal and confirm all other sensors. If it doesn't get all correct signals, it kills all power steering assistance. It really does appear that your speed signal is not correct at the HICAS unit. You really need to go into HICAS diagnostic mode and check the fault codes from the unit. I'm not sure how you're going to do that without the HICAS dash indicator to flash codes, which I guess you don't have with your new Link dash. If you do have a HICAS indicator, there are tutorials on how to enter it and read the fault codes on SAU.

As @robbo_rb180 mentioned above check your pedal box integrity and adjustment against master. You should never actually need to adjust your pedal height if done correctly in the first place though. This is normally set when a new clutch goes in and actually should be pretty low before any fork movement happens. The theory behind this is as your clutch wears your pedal becomes higher with also less free travel, indicating plate wear. The problem is most people adjust their clutch pedal to be too high when a new clutch goes in, thinking it's too low to the floor when it really isn't. If you do this so you start with a higher pedal you run out of adjustment when it starts to wear, which ends up preloading the pressure plate fingers, causing a slipping clutch as it is ever so slightly disengaged. So have you got a high clutch pedal with no free travel ? Did you ever have pedal free travel ? If so you could try to adjust it do the pedal becomes higher until you get some sort of free travel, unless you got the wrong carrier in there, which I suspect you do as you mentioned a 16mm carrier. Is this a 32 or 33 gtst ? And is it definitely a dampened STR2CD clutch ? Because I just checked and the OS giken STR2CD correct release bearing carrier from OS giken specs is 18mm for R32 and 14mm for the R33. I think your box is coming out mate.

Some pics of what used to be on the car when I was first building it. Wow, how things change...like some of these photos before smart phones existed. Sard fuel pressure reg and Sard 660cc injectors Apexi Power FC PRO with ignition cut and launch control - WOW ! My first Trust 6 speed straight cut dog engagement transmission because... this happened to the standard gear GTR gearbox then.... this happened to the Trust 6 speed straight cut dogbox anyway 🤦‍♂️ This was 3rd from memory. An OS Giken 5 speed replaced these and amazingly I did not break that, even drag racing. But I did feel the ratios of the OS giken box to be not so suited to the HKS turbo fitted at the time, and it was also a helical / synchro box. So I sold that OS giken 5 speed while it was in good condition so I could.... that's right, go and buy another Trust 6 speed. Again ! 🤦‍♂️ Don't have pictures of this one busted as these pictures above are actually after 3rd and 4th have been replaced. Between buying, destroying and repairing 2 x Trust boxes and 1 x OS giken 5 speed gearset running just on this car, I'd definitely spent more than just originally purchasing a sequential like an OS-88 or a Holinger. But I'm stubborn and want my straight cut H pattern dog, which basically came down to PPG or PAR really being the only ones doing what I want. PAR eventually got the nod over the PPG for two reasons. 1. PAR has optional billet interlock shift barrel (PPG makes you use the factory sintered one) 2. PAR I could choose to have synchro + helical 5th with 1st - 4th straight cut dogs. (PPG 1st -5th straight cut dog only) If I could have optioned the above with PPG I most likely would have went the Pfitzner route as the price difference was negligible. Bolted it to a modified 10 plate transfer case and the gearset assembled on OS giken billet centre plate with GM 28.5mm, 26 spline input shaft. This box is still intact. So far.

So I take it the goal would be in the 8s then ? 770kw at wheels is what, at least 160+mph ? I'd like to see the curve for the delivery and results of that much top end mumbo. Keep us updated with a time 👍

You realise you responded to a 7 year post to someone that hasn't been on here for 4.5 years right ? Anyway they were referring to excess positive crank case pressure, which a new dipstick is not going to fix.

Why not the 6466 then ? I tossed up going the 6870, then I thought why ? People are making 500 - 600rwkw with them and it will always be more responsive than the 6870, so I went the 1.00a/r 6466.

For reference: This is what the stock RB25 Apexi ignition table looks like in the Power FC. Note RPM is cells N1 - N20 in 400rpm increments, so N20 is 8000rpm. P1 - P20 is the load scale. You really need to do a map trace on the hand controller to see your max load as most cars won't be hitting P19, P20. So for this map most RB25s would be at 23 at full load redline.

Good to hear ! What parts got replaced again ?

I was waiting for a response like this... I have been buying parts from places like this overseas for over 20 years. This is not the norm and RHDjapan, Perfect Run or Nengun will absolutely not change the declared price - You were just lucky. What I have noticed is it can sometimes be dependant on the shipping service. EMS is the only one that seemed to get through no taxes probably about 60% - 70% of the time for me. This is not an option at the moment due to Covid19, EMS services are suspended to Australia. DHL, UPS, FedEx and other international courier services will never let you get away with it. You will always need to pay to get your stuff out of customs if the declaration value is over $1000au. Possibly, but I'm guessing still over $4k. With the prices mentioned, I would be going with Just Jap for a new one. Anything that is large and/or expensive that is already available in Australia is generally better off being sourced through Australian sources, as their is no hidden costs or surprises.

It will cost you at least 20 - 30% more. 10% GST 10% import duty Govt. Levy and any other crap they can think of. RHDjapan and Nengun this is definitely applicable to over $1000+. For example my latest RHD order with DHL was $2451 shipped. To release it was another $441 through customs. One thing I will say though is for genuine parts you can't beat Amayama. Their prices shipped include all import duty and taxes, which most people overlook.

The rings are definitely thinner on the Nitto 2.8, with top ring at 1.0mm and second ring at 1.2mm with the custom JE pistons. For comparison, most other RB pistons like CP use 1.2mm top and second 1.5mm rings. For your situation, the turbos your going to run don't really need a stroker. But would it be better with bigger than 2.6 capacity with them ? Yes, absolutely it would.

You come up with some weird shit. Of course stroker kits are a wise choice. Are you saying a square bore / stroke like say 86 x 86mm would be even more unfavorable ? I think we know what the real world answer is here as quite a few good performing engines are exactly this. For the record, I too went the RB26 block in the 121.5mm rod length Nitto 2.8

Ross performance

That's right, All R32s are an H4 main headlight loom with plug in sub harnesses that split to H3C/H3 or H1/H3. Reflectors are straight H4 with no sub harness.

Maybe all. But specifically the Bosch patent for theirs is a "wind deflector", for holding blade against windshield.

He's absolutely right. Whiteline does call it the "rear radius arm" KTA117. Whiteline also specifically says that you have to install these when you install the adjustable rear upper control arm. Makes perfect sense really. I found out the hard way on my 32 years ago. If you don't and you wind in more negative camber on the rear with the stock length, you will eventually crack your upper control arm welds.

Hopefully both, as a truly better cast block with thicker cylinder walls would be great, if the price is right. But as mentioned new RB26 are still readily available new and cheap, only RB30 is becoming scarce.

Good photo. Is this a guessing game of what exact model car and caliper this is ?