BK

Or you could measure it yourself and know exactly what it is ? Heard of a threadfile ? You'll be able to tell what pitch it is and clean it up with that.

Another point which I don't like is the Getrag use ATF like Tremec because of their synchros material, unlike an actual gear oil which will always provide better lubrication. Hence why you have to use the absolutely best synthetic ATF on the market like Castrol Transmax Z to have a chance of any gear wear protection.

Yes but you can use the stock 5th with an OS giken gearset too, which is what I have in my 33. The tall first gear gets you roughly about 100km/h compared to about 80km/h with the stock 3.214. The gearset in effect makes it closer ratio spacing between 1st - 4th. @mr_rbmanQuoting myself from another thread about the Getrag, but in a nutshell the Getrag is a bit like having a 5 speed OS gearset and shoving a super short gear in front of 1st. R34 Getrag: 3.827, 2.360, 1.685, 1.312, 1.000, 0.793 final drive 3.545 Ignoring 1st, 2nd to 6th gears it's similar ratios to a Giken 5 speed. May aswell not have the 1st in it with 4.11, so what's the point of using a Getrag 6 speed in an 32 / 33 unless you want a very short 50km/h Motorkhana gear ?

Yes, neo is different.

I have a set of Franklin engineering billet half moons here. Didn't end up installing them but I did place them for reference in an RB26 head when I was going to. They sit flush.

I was also going to say this. Scamming prick, gearset tolerances not manufactured correctly, and so on. Just endless problems with them. I'm surprised Sam at Neat would even touch them...

I assume you're referring to the rocker cover bolts. Was this one if those cheap shitty solid washer type kits that don't use a factory style rubber crush insulator ? If so, there is a reason the factory use these rubbers - to try and prevent overtightening. Also the torque on these is only 2 - 4Nm. Use the new factory stuff instead of the bling stuff - and actually torque them down in sequence. Not that this mattered in this situation with regards to sealing as the rear of your covers were kicked up by the billet half moons not being flush anyway.

Did you look at what I posted ? It lists what was changed.

There is no reason to use shockproof in a healthy gearbox ever. Absolutely none. A 75w - 85 GL-4 provides the smoothest shifts with the brass synchros. Even GL-5 at 75w-90 is noticeably worse in the upper rev range shifting. Shockproof is gummy crap that sticks to everything and if you've ever pulled a box down you'd never recommend it. It masks synchronisation wear and is about the same result as using a normal oil and adding a shift additive like that Nulon or Penrite smooth shift crap - the oil becomes a paste. LSD or not the LSD oil is fine for the open fron diff, it's just not required, but the best synthetic heavier weight oils are mostly LSD oils by design though. As I've said repeatedly in the paat the stock front diff oil weight is retarded - way too light, so use an 80 or 90 weight oil in front diff at your own risk. 75w-140 in both front and rear if you want to retain healthy crown wheel and pinions on you GTR diffs is the go.

I take it this is a push clutch right ? If so what is the recommended bearing carrier for your clutch ? A stock carrier is 14mm, but most multi plates generally use bigger ones. Because multiplate clutches are usually more compact, as the distance from back flywheel to pressure plate fingers is reduced from standard, meaning you have to correct that length with a longer carrier to get the correct travel. For example ATS triples have 20mm, ATS twin 30mm, R3C 26mm, R4C 18mm and so on. If this length is too short, your release throw will be reduced as the clutch fork fulcrum point won't be correct. Nissan do different carriers from about 12mm - 32mm in 2mm increments. We had to correct one recently from NPC. It had a stock 14mm carrier, but some wanker packed an extra 4mm of washers under the clutch fork pivot as a ghetto way to try and not use the correct carrier. This is also not the correct way to do it as your fulcrum point will still be wrong as the fork won't sit parallel on the carrier, even if the calculated length is correct. Solution was to remove the 4mm of washers and fit an 18mm carrier. Basically you need to find out what carrier you have and what carrier you're supposed to have, as it definitely doesn't sound right.

Sorry I'm retarded. For some reason I was thinking I read HKS Hi power or Hyper, then I re-read and saw HKS Priest. If you have one of these - you need to bin that shit ASAP. The muffler inside reduces down to something like 2.5" - that's why it's quiet. The resonator on or off won't do much with that muffler if you've got the full cat back priest system as they run a mid muffler too. Most off the shelf Jap / Jasma mufflers have huge restrictions stepping down inside them, with a lot reducing to under 75mm. I'm annoyed my HKS Hi power steps down from 95mm pipe in to 85mm inside. Even the Xforce stuff here is no better either. Our white 32 GTR has a 3.5" / 90mm pipe in Xforce muffler and guess what - it even steps down to a smaller 75mm. I'm not even gonna try and sell that - it's going in bin where most Jap mufflers belong. Good mufflers absolutely should not do that if you want to make power.

I have retained an HKS Hi power muffler in my 33 gtr. It is 95mm in on the muffler, but the rest of the system was shit. Binned the rest of the HKS system from end of front pipe to start of muffler, which includes the resonator. I replaced it with custom 3.5" stainless. Sounds heaps better and is way less restrictive.

Told ya, excellent result. Looks like new inside.

Correct step 2 is lighter than the step 0 / 1 (same) crankshaft. Who cares really, as the HKS step 0, 1 and 2 are all forged cranks, step 3 the overpriced but best billet one is now discontinued and a Spool billet 77.7mm stroker crank is cheaper (and better) than all of them.

Two areas overkill is always better: Fuel system - wiring and line sizes Exhaust size

Does that "star 1" marking on crank not mean step 1 ? Ask HKS direct.

I don't really see these becomjng a collector's car. 32 v spec or even the Aussie 32 will still be more desirable and worth more. It was just a company that fitted off the shelf parts to a car, nothing special really. There was a thread awhile ago here:

Pretty much. No one is driving from idle to WOT

It all sounds very plausible I guess. Just don't know why it would matter being billet aluminium when other engines are stock with aluminium blocks. Some feedback on this stuff from Bullet would be interesting.

Really ? Why not ?

I'm waiting on a response from them regarding making 31 spline stub axles to suit the factory cv. If they do this, it takes away a fair bit of future uncertainty. It means 31 spline diff centre options will never be a problem, half shafts are readily available for breakages, driveshaft cv axle choices mean you can use a standard cv type shafts with stock shafts or billet ones, and because your already running a 31 spline diff the choice is there to go the super dooper 108mm cv down the track. At the moment if you break a stub axle its way worse than breaking a driveshaft axle because of what potentially you have to upgrade. Again, FK you Nissan constantly discontinuing important things that aren't available from the Nismo heritage program.

Depends on your existing diff centre and shafts, as the centres fit in the housings and is direct fit IF you have late R32 or R33 non vspec half shafts which are 31 spline. Driveshaft shop only makes 31 spline stub axle half shafts, because I guess they assume any serious GTR will be running a 31 spline rear centre, which is what all the good centres are. 31 spline stock half shafts are as mentioned almost impossible to get now, and the Driveshaft shop 31 spline half shaft stub axles only suit their 108mm cv driveshaft axles, not stock GTR driveshaft cv axles. Long story short is 30 spline only suits Nismo GT and Cusco diff centres, but if you break a 30 spline half shaft they are now no longer available to replace, and there is no aftermarket replacement option. If you want a Quaife, ATS or Giken rear they only take 31 spline half shafts, which are also now discontinued and the only 31 spline half shaft option off the shelf doesn't support stock driveshaft cv axles. It really is getting to a point if driveshaft axle or stub axle breakage is at all a possibility the Driveshaft shop is the only supported option to know you can replace something if it does break, which it probably won't as that's the reason their gear was used in the first place.

According to your build thread you got a 90 GTR right ? Your existing rear stub axle half shafts into your diff will be 30 spline. Nismo GT and Cusco have 30 spline centres, but OS giken and Quaife rears are only designed for 31 spline. Don't know of any 30 spline stub upgrades and they too are discontinued. See where this is going ?

You are way off. The car launches at 50/50 and progressively reduces the front wheel torque up the track. It's the launch that breaks the shafts, especially with sticky tires like ET streets or slicks. The reason I mentioned the driveshaft shop gear is they are the only ones selling uprated stub axles, and this is also what the big big power GTRs are breaking. Downside is they only suit their driveshafts and CVs. It's a big step up from the billet hi octane shaft only replacement as their CVs are much bigger, hence why I said it's about as serious as it gets. Don't know if you know or not, but trying to obtain 31 spline stub axles is almost getting to the impossible stage, where if you break one, the driveshaft shop may become the only option soon.

The Quaife in the rear is also awesome.