BK

Yeah ? I have purchased 2 Nitto 2.8 stroker kits before and both were included with them from Nitto. 1st crank went to Rick Corbett engineering in Adelaide and 2nd crank went to CRD and whoever they use for machine work to double check Nitto reports. I'll dig up one from Nitto.

Yeah I know Nitto "rate" the 3.2 to 10000rpm and they "rate" the 2.8 to 11000rpm. As my 2.8 crank came from them with test results balanced up to a confirmed 10000rpm, I bet the 3.2 is only "tested" before delivery to 9000rpm to be safe, knowing realistically no one is spinning a 3.2 past 9k and a 2.8 past 10k.

Standard option looks like it, as the pictures in Holinger GTR workshop manual are all showing helical gears on the disassembly except reverse. Main and counter shafts are both splined on gear so they definitely can do it. The earlier GTR boxes the Hollinger GRA-6N and HKS-GTR were only straight cut. 2012 GTR MANUAL.pdf

I was under the impression you could get either, as the Holinger GRA-6N box for the group A R32 cars were straight cut, and was essentially the same ? Anyway I would echo above - Albins all the way. Compared to Samsonas they have definitely more all round Motorsport proven track record within Australia and are completely Australian. In off road like 800hp+ buggies with monster torque that race here in the NT Finke desert race, there is basically only one manual box used that wins. Albins

Yes definitely run at least billet gears, whether that's a gearset or a Nitto pump, whatever. The standard oil pump actually runs bigger gears than an N1 too FYI, and are preferred by some engine builders because of their housings. Don't forget though standard or N1, they still have the shitty cast backing plate which will still flex even with billet gears. Hence why a Nitto pump with its billet gears and billet backing plate make them much better than just a gearset, and are worth every cent.

Back to the RB30 crank, some interesting comments from Lewis engines, make of it what you will: "Every second phone call involves a discussion on RB pump failures. It is a dilemma that faces the unaware RB builder but can be addressed in several ways. Basically the 6 cylinder inline engine is not a balance friendly item to deal with at high rpm. The crankshaft harmonics through the inline 6 crank are inevitable and increase in magnitude as crankshaft stroke increases. This is no new engineering fact but has to be dealt with and manicured as per each individual combination and customers budget. The Nissan RB engine will go 'past' or 'through' its harmonic periods very quickly and this will interprate the success or the destruction of most combinations. Some turbocharger combinations will find a huge ammount of rpm per time and these are the 'oil pump killers'. The cranks especially the long stroke RB30 will not be happy in these situations. We find in most race /high rpm engines to stick with a 25 or 26 stroke and when using the RB30 to be limited to max rpm of 7500rpm. When using an RB30 a constant check of the balancer bolt tension is necessary.The first sign of crank harmonics and too much rpm for a combination, is the loosening of the harmonic balancer bolt in operation. The bolt must be done up to 400nm. This cannot be achieved unless the flywheel or crank is held with appropriate tools. A knocking type hammer or torque wrench and car in gear WILL NOT achieve sufficient tension." Darren doesn't appear to be saying the crank won't do it (well implies it saying "won't be happy"), just more pointing out the extreme harmonics that are created and the effect of them when going past 7500rpm with a 30 crank. I know my Nitto 2.8 crank came with a balancing test report of being tested in 1000 rpm increments to 10000rpm, and would expect their 3.2 cranks to be at least tested to 9k rpm.

Because a 2JZ is just so easy to put in a GTR isn't it...

Nah, just one of the M spec NUR versions. The purple GTR your thinking of is probably the V spec performance Z-tune. That's about the only one I'd expect to pull that sort of money, buy hey. I found a new contender though. Anyone interested in a R32 GTR N1 with 4000km on the clock....? WTF, have a look at this madness. https://buyee.jp/item/yahoo/auction/v724458753?conversionType=search_suggest

The 64.8 l/min at 7000rpm is definitely at 120psi (2 springs - checked with CRD when I did mine and I have 2 springs fitted). A stock pump looks like it taps out at 46.5 l/min at 67psi on 6000rpm from the service manual. So with the 75 psi (1 spring) at 52 l/min it is lower than a Tomei pump (56 l/min) and only a slight increase in flow and pressure over a standard pump, just heaps stronger. I guess that's why they give you that option to go lower.

More like $1100 - $2000 for a good extended sump. On my blue 32 it has a Nitto pump and a Lewis engines 8+ litre sump as it's a big dollar Nitto 2.8. But I'm not sold that it's an absolute 100% deal breaker to run a Nitto pump without a big sump. Flow rate major increases are really only up in the high revs, 7000+. They mention long nose crank or crank collar as definite must, but not absolutely, MUST run a bigger sump. Increases are as below. What is not mentioned is that the flow rates quoted are at the dual spring higher pressure, I guess because the pump flows the same at a given rpm, and the relief valve will only bypass very high in the rpm if set to 120psi. It is possible to drop the pressure to the engine bearing and head supply though running one spring, which will infact decrease the flow rate at the high rpm range when the flow output really becomes substantially more with the higher 120psi relief valve setting. 75psi will definitely make the flow lower to the bearings at the mid to higher rpm range as the valve will bypass earlier, returning excess oil directly to the sump. How much lower the flow at the bearings will be I'm not exactly sure, as it's definitely not a linear ratio and I'm not a fluid dynamics engineer. @GTSBoy care to have a crack at the flow differential calc ? Just to add to info below Tomei pumps are 56L/min at 6000rpm for comparison sake. Factory is still 46L/min at 6000rpm, indicating factory relief valve is already open providing no more increased flow above 6000rpm. FLOW RATES (LITRES / MIN) ENGINE RPM FACTORY PUMP NITTO HIGH VOLUME PUMP 750 4.6 6.5 2200 15.3 20.2 7000 46.5 64.8 PRESSURE RELIEF VALUE (RELEASE PRESSURE) Dual Springs 120 psi * Outer Spring Only 75 psi * * Denotes Approximate Maximum Oil Pressure NITTO OIL PUMP GEAR VS FACTORY GEAR DIMENSIONS DIMENSION FACTORY NITTO DIFFERENCE Outer Gear Diameter 76.85MM 81.50MM 6% LARGER Outer Gear Width 11.00MM 14.35MM 23% LARGER Tooth To Outer Wall Width 2.55MM 4.85MM 47% LARGER On the second 32 were doing now we've built engine already with a stock sump and Nitto oil pump. We're confident it'll be ok as a mainly street and sometimes street drag car with the additional stuff fitted to optimise the stock sump volume restriction: Head 1.1mm oil supply restrictor in block (stock is 2.0mm), Tomei sump baffle at oil pickup, modified enlarged sump oil return holes, Franklin engineering AN10 rear head drain/breather to sump, twin AN10 rocker cover breathers to catch can with separate AN10 sump return and an HKS 13 row oil cooler with 70deg thermostat filter relocation. This will be fine, although the cooler and line setup also does add nearly an extra litre to the oil volume for a bit of an increase in capacity, restrictor tries to reduce as much oil being pumped out of sump to head and then the rest is really to facilitate getting the oil back to the sump faster - so it's not exactly a "stock" sump setup I guess. Look at the end of the day if you can go a bigger sump it's always better, even with the lower flowing standard or N1 pumps. Definitely no argument there. If you can go bigger, do it.

I don't think you do, or else you wouldn't be bringing up DHL from Japan, which has nothing to do with your order with them. Relax, you'll get your parts mate. ?

Dude I have stuff on the way at the moment too from them, same delays. They are usually 10/10, but the shipping at the moment from overseas just is what it is. "Sent by supplier" just means they are waiting for the stock themselves. You do realise Amayama is not like RHDjapan or Nengun right ?, where they specifically obtain and ship your order independently from other orders. Amayama do bulk stock orders for multiple customers parts overseas, which all get shipped together, then they individually ship it once it's in Australia. Notice you only get tracking within Australia ? That's why. How do you think they keep their shipping prices so low ? Chill out.

As above is completely correct. The engine is out, now is the time to address the oil issues. I'd be hesitant to reuse you existing pump, but I see where you're going. Buying a new N1 pump and then new billet gears for it is approaching the cost of just buying a new Nitto oil pump.

That's even worse as the 24U N1 block is a completely different part. As far as the N1 oil pump, the backing plate is different to the standard one.

Yes I was pointing out the obvious, as Bendix and the like don't seem to do them and genuine is the go. The current genuine pitwork part now appears to be AY360-NS048 and are fairly cheap.

Yes. Nissan.

Nope, same for solenoid

The Apexi solenoid basically needs 12v to one side of the solenoid (usually powered from IGN pin 45) and then switches to ground at the ecu at pin 25 for the pulsing of the solenoid to bleed air. pinout-nissan-rb26dett.pdf

Yeah, they're full of shit saying N1. 12200-05U02 was still a long nose crank too, just the obsolete part number now.

No, you have to run a separate MAP sensor on Power FC purely for the boost control side mate, the boost control does not use the engine load MAPs which are tapped into the 2 X AFM signal wires. So on a GTR d Jetro you end up having three Apexi MAP sensors on an RB26.

There's 2 pins on the factory connector for the solenoid - look em up and hook into them. You also have to run cable anyway (3 cores) for the Apexi MAP sensor which plugs into a different specific connector, so run another pair at the same time.

There is no such thing as an RB26 N1 crank, contrary to what people are advertising. 12200-05U03 is just the latest R34 long nose crank that superceded previous part numbers, used in all RB26. Kudos has in stock for about the same price through Amayama. The N1 crank in R33 was the same previous part in all 33 RB26s, 12200-05U02.

It does end up pinning into the engine harness ecu connector, just not directly part of the engine loom.

The boost control cable for GTRs isn't part of the engine loom. It's part of the loom that runs on the driver's side.

Also 5 is stock NGK heat range for RB25, 6 for RB26. Probably why Repco / Supercrap say it's the wrong plug too.