BK

Been trying to find the time to actually work on my own cars. Got a few things done recently like actually fitted the ARD 150 amp alternator. Got round to replacing the Nismo 1.3bar radiator cap in the PWR radiator to a proper Stant 16psi lever cap as recommended by PWR. Removed the brand new AD08R yokies from the GT1 wheels and replaced them with new Hankook RS4. Big reason is I think the 265 AD08 seemed just a tad too big, the 265 RS4 is noticeably narrower from sidewall to tread and fit better. The AD08s went onto my R33 TE37s to replace the very aged V103s so they weren't wasted and fit a lot nicer to that car. So today I'm off to tackle finally installing the Ross crank trigger kit that I got about 18 months ago. Never done one before but hopefully this will be pretty straightforward. Also found a couple of pics of when the Precision 6466 went in to replace the ageing HKS. Went from this: To this:

Yeah but why would ya ? For the competitive price of the Xtreme 230mm twins you are getting a chromoly flywheel with it as opposed to using a stock / stock type flywheel with the single. Not to mention backup from ACS in Adelaide is miles better than NPC.

Obviously not as it's still got stock 6 speed and hasn't gone bang yet

As @r32-25t mentioned the organic Xtreme twin plate is a great option for drivability if the carbons are still too much. Probably the best value for money vs quality multiplate on the market for sure. Make no mistake though organic plates won't last as long as a carbon when launching, but nicer on flywheels than ceramic or metallic plates.

@Deano 1The measurement on the carrier is taken from where the clutch fork presses to where the inner bearing race sits and is the length that is extended for multi plates. For example this is a stock R32 GTR 14mm push type bearing carrier with a release bearing installed: As far as working out which one you need, it's all about measuring everything to work out how far away your bearing is from the pressure plate fingers and adjusting accordingly. I do have a drawing of how to do it to fully explain it. I'll post it up for you when I can dig it out.

Ok, by now everyone knows I am an avid ATS advocate and consider them to be the absolute best clutch on the market bar none. So at that power level, if you had say an ATS spec 1 carbon triple rated at 1400hp you would likely never need to replace the clutch again - ever. I have them in both my 32 and 33 and the way they are progressive is on another level compared to any ceramic or metallic based clutch. Only downside is price, they are off their head expensive now at around $5k, but you do get what you pay for. If budget is a concern at around the $2.5k mark Xtreme now make their own carbon twin, and is probably what I would get if an ATS is too much of a stretch.

Attesa hoses crap out over time, nothing new, just gotta replace them. If you want genuine these days they're all Nismo parts.

Where is your power goals and how much are you prepared to pay ? Because for ultimate power holding vs drivability nothing can touch carbon plates.

Boost control = wastegate via solenoid.

Hi everyone. I'm on the hunt for a rear R32 boot trim, specifically the left rear jack compartment lid. Come on someone must have one....

As above. The only alignment that matters is the friction plates input shaft spline section, so that you can actually get the gearbox input shaft to go straight in. That's what they'll mean by aligning the plates in you manual.

I was also referring to you driving home 1000km in 6hr

Yep, because it needs a rebuild. Really ?!

Don't think he's heard of a helicoil if so. But yeah the first post is a little incoherent 😂

Fair enough. So what's the nipple in front of the bov for ? Wastegate ?

Is there a reason that the bov is pre intercooler and far away from your throttles ? It's also seems unnecessarily long and close to your wheel. Bov is supposed to be mounted as close as practical to your throttle body, that's why the OEM put them where they are. Your muffler also looks smaller than 3.5inch internally

Also if you wanted to do this, a factory loom would not reach anywhere required, and major modification of loom would be needed.

Why the hell would you bother ? The passenger side ecu loom goes into the wheel arch from the cabin and then exits the wheel arch into engine bay. The wiring in the wheel arch on the passenger side is maybe 100mm ? Again, why would you bother ? The one on the driver's side runs the entire length of the wheel arch, much more exposed as the length is way more than half a metre over your wheel. No wonder people are giving you WTF are you thinking reactions, as the idea of rerouting the passenger side of the loom is completely unnecessary, and will achieve absolutely zero benefit.

I don't think so with small turbos. But if you do go ahead with the vcam, I'd try it with stock exhaust cam first. Swap it out later if the need arises and see what happens, but I think gains will be minimal.

CP sells them separately.

Same, I've got no intention upping the power on the 33. That's why you need a second GTR to put a big single and dog box into...😉

350 is a bit of a push on 98. You'll get another 30 - 40kw on E85. My 33 with the actual HKS GT-SS turbos which is the original early -9 spec has been dynoed consistently for over 15 years between 310 - 330kw on 19 -22psi on the good ol' Power FC. Good for up to 11.5. That's just what they make. ANY cams over standard is just going to compromise the low end to mid response with these turbos. Want more power - it's turbo change time.

Yes, it can.

They definitely are, but it's really only cost effective bundling with other stuff you order. I run the R7436-8 (53mm old JIS length like bcpr) as it is actually the correct length plug for RB26, not the R7434-8 (50.5mm ISO length like bkr) which is shorter. There's 2.5mm difference in height between them and the old JIS length fits a little better into your coilpacks. Sometimes it's an issue, sometimes not, but the 26 is supposed to have the 53mm length FYI. Fwiw though yeah the R7434/36 is the best plug out there - lowered iridium centre electrode and platinum ground electrode. But at around $50 per unit they'd wanna be... I've attached the NGK race catalogue for the complete range available, as it's totally separate to the normal NGK site catalogue. That said, the Op RB25 shouldn't require NGK race plugs though, or a heat range of colder than a 6 or 7 as you don't want be colder than you need to be. Gaps around 0.8mm should be fine too, so maybe 0.6mm is actually a bit small creating a weak spark. Maybe the plugs are just fouled up causing an occasional misfire ? 0.6mm does seems a bit on the small side no ? NGK_Race_Plugs.pdf

Come on man, look a bit harder on the forums please. I think I have personally responded to driveline oil Q's a about four times this month. Anyway, as mentioned previously, put this in your GTR and it will be very happy: Rear Diff - Motul comp gear 75w-140 top recommendation - best oil at best price. That said any of your synthetic LSD oils at that weight be also be the same result - Castrol, Penrite, Nismo, OS giken Needs 2 litres (1.5 ltr minimum) Transmission - Any 75w-85 GL-4 synthetic is the best for synchros. Typical oil is Castrol Syntrans 75w-85 or Penrite Pro gear 75w-85. Use shockproof at your own risk. Needs 4 litres ( 3.8 ltr minimum) Do your transfer too if doing box. Need a Top synthetic ATF like Castrol transmax Z. 2 litres required. (1.8 ltr minimum)