BK

Well you're set then, 80344-91L00 still available. Of course it's always going to be the 32 GTR stuff that is constantly discontinued. F@#K you Nissan.

Hang on, are we talking about a 4 door here ? They are different (I instantly assumed gts4 coupe). The ones discontinued are the R32 coupe / GTR version. The one in your picture looks more like what is used on 33 / 34 GTR with that style of bracket, which is what a 4 door R32 sedan has (Not exactly the same though). If you are talking about a 4 door R32, it's the inner window stabiliser 80344-91L00, superceded by 80344-91L01 which are both the same and both still available. Since I mentioned R33 GTR / GTSt 2 door the same part for them is 80344-22U00 or 80344-22U01 or 80344-22U02 - all available.

I wonder if it's because of the high recommended torque. From installation experience, 2000's torqued to the recommended 110ft/lb "feels right" when doing it. Done a few of them, but after doing the 625's once, 130ft/lb for them feels bordering on too much. I was worried I was going to pull the thread out of a brand new block ! Wouldn't be surprised if someone has, considering the stock head bolt final torque is only 76 - 83 ft/lb and is really only what Nissan engineered the block to handle.

Discontinued. You should sell them to me ?

?‍♂️ You didn't really expect a stock head gasket to hold 30ish psi with a 6466 did you ? ? I've still got the stock gasket on the 33 and I'm very nervous running 22psi with that, and if it does let go I won't be surprised. I suspect that you have not actually "lifted" the head as you've said before, more like blown a big piece out of the gasket. Please show a pic of the gasket when you eventually get to it ?

Yeah but you haven't pulled it down yet, so probably a bit of a stretch to instantly blame the ARP2000 studs for being inadequate.

Yep, probably 95% ARP2000 being adequate, and only ever used that until recently. Decided to splash out on the CA625+ when the 6466 went on the 32. For comparison, the RB26 torque specified for 2000s is 110ft/lb and 130ft/lb for the 625s.

Power steering line for hicas

I do for sale

Let's keep it simple then as requested: 90% of any RB = ARP2000 Money to burn or mega boost = ARP CA625+ /Close thread

"Reasonably" shit by the sounds of it, just like the new Supra.

A "proper" MR2, yeah.

And before anyone pipes up, I know that it's a 200kw AWD turbo 3 cylinder - it's still a freaking Yaris ! The Celica GT-4 is what Toyota really needed to bring back.

No, he obviously doesn't - THAT IT'S A $40000 YARIS ! Who in their right mind would...next batch is supposed to go for $50k+ Has the world gone mad ?

100% get it if your budget allows. On an R32 with this kit you have the added bonus that it also replaces the standard craptacular 32 in tank fuel level sender. I hate them so much - such a shitty, unreliable, fragile design.

Mate I still run a Power FC in the 33 GTR, so don't worry the Haltech Elite is an excellent choice. In the two 32 GTR we have a 2500 in one (switched from Power FC d Jetro) and a 2000 in the other (switched from Link G4). You'll be happy with the 2000, it's more than capable for most RB26 setups. ?

Gold ! Yep, I deal with it everyday.... OP for the record I have a Ross trigger and balancer on an Elite 2500. Ross is good stuff - no modification if you end up down the crank trigger path. That said I've also done 10s with a CAS before the trigger. The next rant coming I see will be to throw your Haltech Elite in the bin a get a Emtron.?‍♂️

And when you need a trigger kit, I would choose a Kulig trigger kit over a Platinum or Ross one why ?

Geez give the dude a break. The guy isn't even close to starting his engine yet to and I bet there's much more to look at before that. You're acting like he's going to start his engine and it will explode because he has a crank angle sensor. Yes triggers are better, he'll get there when needed. They aren't cheap.

Amayama have just had a major shipment arrive. All of my parts are now showing at warehouse.

Its supposed to be for sealing the throttle butterfly inside the throttle body. Never heard of anyone needing to use it. Seems like a completely unnecessary product for a problem that doesn't really exist. And no don't use RTV or gasket goo on your throttle gaskets. Loctite 518, the red stuff that doesn't really set if you need to use anything, not an RTV.

So you're retaining the factory top hat with 5/16 in/out fittings, factory hard lines and 5/16 feed/return from surge tank to main tank ? What intank pump are you running ?

Yeah they are defintely a different pump next to each other, and there is a heap of physical differences between them in the gear, pressure relief, housing and back plate when comparing. The rating though is very ambiguous to say the least on the N1. People claim same flow but higher pressure, which is looking very possible. But for that to be possible the N1 pump would actually have to be designed to flow less than standard, but then run a higher relief valve setting to bring it back to the standard 46 - 47 l/min flow rate. But if that is true, that means if you bumped up the pressure on a stocker pump to whatever an N1 pump is set to, the stocker would outflow the N1 both with identical pressures. End of the day what I'm getting at is if you're fitting billet gears to an N1 pump, what real tangible improvement have you made by choosing an N1 pump vs a standard RB26 oil pump both running billet gears ? Possibly a tad higher oil pressure like 67 vs 75 psi but same flow if any info on them is correct.

Exactly. I see no need to run an N1 pump over a stock 33/34 GTR pump. I haven't seen concrete evidence of N1 flow / pressure specs. Best info I could dig up was 47 l/min at 6000rpm, 75psi, but that is still hearsay. The main reason for getting an N1 pump back in the day was they did have a harder gearset than stock (someone on here independently tested it), but if you're going to put billet gears in what the point ? I know @Sydneykid back in the day used to advise to use the stocker over an N1 and Darren from Lewis engines, who builds some pretty tuff and reliable gear, advises of using the stock housing with gears over an N1 pump. I've only used one once 11+ years ago and wouldn't bother again with them against a stock housing if gearsets are being replaced. I have no idea why people even bother with N1 oil pumps when everyone knows basically nothing about them.

Absolutely, but what else can you go off ? The fact the pretesting is not done right up to claimed max rpm is more realistic real world documentation. I wonder how Nitto is coming to the conclusion of their max rpm and power limits then ? Probably just estimates / calculated guess ? Anyway its proven to be pretty good gear, and more than adequate for what 99% of people are going to throw at it.